HELP/ Strange problem

[RayBan GST]

i tried to start the car today but it wont start, it starts for 3 seconds and the RPM drops down below 1 and then it dies , i tried to start it for more than half an hour but with the same problem it starts and then it dies eventhough i was pressing gas to start her up/

i unpluged the third spark plug tension wire and start it it worked fine and then immediately i plugged it back and now the car is ok ? but now every 5 hours or so it does the same i need to remove the tension wire and start the car in order to be ok


i went to the mechanic and he said that my car is ok no problem but it keeps doing this without any reason ????


any idea on what is happening here ?

thanks

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Can you clarify what a spark plug tension wire is?

Is this problem consistent all the time? or is it only when the engine is hot? or does it only happen when it is cold? Any other descriptions of when this problem happens?

 

[c4uldr0n]

I'm confused about the "tension" wire! Maybe you needs new spark plug wires, or your coil pack is acting up. Hard to say without more information or better clarification.

c4

 

[RayBan GST]

the problem happens in both cases when its hot and when its cold but its more when its cold

i have changed spark plugs recently with the spark cables ( tension wires) i put spark plugs NGK iridium bkr9eix so everything is new


can you please help me now ?\\


thanks

 

[Jst4Cyl]

I'm sure that he is talking about the spark plug wire. I noticed that he is from Asia, maybe that is what they are called over there

As far as a hard start problem, the possibillities are endless. You have changed the wires and plugs so that is a start.

A good place to start in my eyes would be to check the fuel pressure (could need a new filter or maybe you have a weak fuel pump).

If you replaced the plugs and wires to fix an issue then you might want to check and see if your getting good spark.

Check all your grounds. (Shouldn't be a problem especially since you said that you cranked it quite a bit)

BTW,

How does the car run after it starts?

Do you smell a strong gas smell while trying to start it?

Good luck and hope this helps

 

[coltbrown]

Sounds like you may have a vacuum leak.... make sure that all of your vacuum lines are hooked up, esp the one going from the intake manifold to the valve cover. My car does the same thing if that line is unhooked.

 

[RayBan GST]

hi guys, the car is still doing this when its cold and sometimes when its hot i checked everything all the hoses and the spark wires and plugs all ok .


when the car starts after me unplugging the third spark wire , there is no fuel smell and all ok


please let me know what is the problem

 

[turboglenn]

that's odd... usually somehting like that would be a fueling problem. But since by removing the third plug wire and then it starts i would start to think you have a couple o fplug wires crossed or something...

the only time ive had a problem like this is when the car is cold and the fuel is sticking to teh intake ports and not making into the combustion chamber enough to keep it running, then after it's warm teh ports are too hot to let fuel "puddle" in them as it will vaporize it and keep it in a gaseous state untill combustion..It may be a clogged fuel filter, bad FPR or pump..but the plug wire thing makes this sound VERY odd to me...please update if you get this solved

 

[RayBan GST]

i checked the fuel pump and its ok , i have a doubt that my spark plugs are bad i dont know why eventhough i have changed them last month , i put the NGK Iridium bkr9eix

once i remove the third plug wires it starts perfectly but i have to plug the wire back immediately otherwise the car vibrates a lot .

any help will be highly appreciated

 

[turboglenn]

hmmm..maybe a crack in a plug wire or coil pack causing the spark to arc to other cylinders but it should still run, but rough

 

[zatomz]

I dont think you should be using bpr9 ngk plugs you need to switch to bpr6es ngk plugs and try that out then make sure all of your spark plus wires are in the right place. Do that first then reply. Bpr9's are for race cars bpr8's are for 22+ psi because i just had to switch from 7's to 8's and im running 24 psi. if your mods list is correct and your still stock you should not be using bpr9's even if its not the problem, most people use those for nitrous injection.

 

[RayBan GST]

thank you for the reply, but i went to the NGK shop and they told me that this NGK irdium 9 is good for my car ( my car is purely stock ) i only put the turbo of the manual GST on mine cause mine is Automatic and the original turbo is small.

if i continue using this plugs is there any problem? these plugs are damn expensive i paid around 60 US dollars for them and i am not willing to change them now please let me know if something will happen if i continue on using them


THANKS

 

[turboglenn]

there's no real "problem" with using them. personally i run NGK BR7ES ( and sometimes BPR7ES) plugs ( remenecent from my motocross days ) i'm a firm believer in NGK and i WON'T waste money on platinum, iridium or anything else that's considered a "special" plug if theres' any HP gains i assure you they are null at best. Run NGK plugs, change em as often as you need to in order to maintain a good spark ...on these cars under higher boost pressures, good wires are more important than any special plug.... i run stock coils and have put out 468 HP on my best dyno day. Accell wires usually faulter within a week and i start missing HARD under high boost..once i went through 3 sets in a week.. I switched to Magnecores and haven't had a problem with spark since

although i should mention that i run a standalone EMS and using a stock ignitor and coils, but i set my coil charge time a bit higher than what mitsu runs from teh factory, I run about 5mls or slightly above...mitsu only charges for about 3.2 from what i remember

EDIT: Anote on NGK plugs....they run their # system backwards froma ll other plug manufacturers...hence a 7 is hotter than an 8, and an 8 hotter than a 9 ( other companies denote more heat with a higher number...meaning an autolite that's a 7 would be hotter than a 6 ) ... you're running a cold a$$ plug for such minimal mods.... GO back to at least 8's or 7's and try that

 

[kenamond]

I'm wondering if it's the CAS. I'm stumped about the 3rd plug wire, though. Do you get a check engine light? I forget when they switched the CAS on the 2g cars from "pain in the ass" location to "super convenient" location. But if your car is the latter (CAS on the left end of the intake cam), I'd check it out. Here is a link that shows the CAS (not the metal plate, but the black thing sticking out the upper-left side of it in the picture).

You want to run NGK BPR6ES plugs gapped to 0.028". They cost $2US each. Trust us and not your mechanic on this one.

 

[RayBan GST]

thank you man , but you really think that the spark plugs is causing this problem ?


but why when i remove the third plug wire it starts normaly ? what is the explanation of that ? please try to explain to me and help me out findind my problem



thank you again

 

[turboglenn]

I forget when they switched the CAS on the 2g cars from "pain in the ass" location to "super convenient" location. But if your car is the latter (CAS on the left end of the intake cam), I'd check it out. Here is a link that shows the CAS (not the metal plate, but the black thing sticking out the upper-left side of it in the picture).
.

it changed in mid 95 and completely eliminated teh one under teh cam gear by the 96 production run...although i worked on a 96 recently that for some reason..(maybe a motor swap)..still had teh PITA location

 

[kenamond]

thank you man , but you really think that the spark plugs is causing this problem ?


but why when i remove the third plug wire it starts normaly ? what is the explanation of that ? please try to explain to me and help me out findind my problem



thank you again

I'm not sure if you were responding to me or someone else. As I said, I'm kind of stumped why removing the spark plug wire fixes your problem. I had very similar symptoms as yours when my CAS started to fail. It would fire up, then the rpm would drop low and it would stall. Then it would run fine.

Can you fix your problem by removing a different spark plug wire (#1, #2, or #4) or is it just #3?

And you're going to have to try some of our suggestions eventually. We aren't necessarily going to be able to tell you the exact solution to your problem without you trying things and letting us know what happens. So try answering people's questions if you know the answers; your answers give additional information that might help us help you.

 

[RayBan GST]

Thank you kenamond

i will change my spark plugs and for sure i trust you more than my stupid mechanic

the problem is solved only when i remove the 3 plug wire and not the 1 or 2 or 4

if i remove any of the above 1-2-4 the car wont start , once i remove the third one it starts immediately but i have to plug it back again as soon as possible


also i want to tell you again how is the problem : i start the car it starts but then exactly after 2 seconds it dies again ( NO CHECK ENGINE IS THERE AT ALL ) if i push the gas the sound of the engine is not normall but in both ways it dies after 2 seconds / once i remove the third plug wire its ok ????

please help, i really appreciate your efforts

 

[RayBan GST]

guys please help i need to fix the car today

thanks

 

[zatomz]

We can only help you right now by giving suggestions and a few of those suggestions were waiting on you to do. We can not fix your car over the internet (as nice as that would be) so its up to you to trial and error these things to further advance in what is really going on. get the new ngk bpr7es gap them to .028" (they're only 1.50 to 2.00 depending on where you get them) do that and make sure your wires are in the proper order offof the coil pack. The order from the coil from left to right goes 4,1,2,3 make sure those wires are going in the right places. If that does not work then we can go on to the next step and you will also have the right plugs then anyways. sometimes the most simple things can cause big errors especially on these cars, you have received some easy suggestions here so follow this advice and tell us the results.

 

[kenamond]

Thank you kenamond

i will change my spark plugs and for sure i trust you more than my stupid mechanic

the problem is solved only when i remove the 3 plug wire and not the 1 or 2 or 4

if i remove any of the above 1-2-4 the car wont start , once i remove the third one it starts immediately but i have to plug it back again as soon as possible


also i want to tell you again how is the problem : i start the car it starts but then exactly after 2 seconds it dies again ( NO CHECK ENGINE IS THERE AT ALL ) if i push the gas the sound of the engine is not normall but in both ways it dies after 2 seconds / once i remove the third plug wire its ok ????

please help, i really appreciate your efforts

Here's one thing you should try: switch two of your plug wires. Like take the #3 wire completely off (both ends) and take off the #1 wire (both ends). Then put the #1 wire where the #3 one was. And put the #3 one where the #1 one was. Then see if you have the same problem or if you have to pull the #1 wire off to get the car started.

If you do this, you may have to leave the spark plug cover off of the valve cover (stock plug wires are different lengths, so the #1 wire won't reach the #3 plug when routed through the wire guides).

If your problem switches from #3 to #1, that tells me your #3 plug wire is bad.

And if you're stock and plan on getting new plugs, I still think you should go with BPR6ES and not PBR7ES. It may not matter, but the 6 plug is what is recommended for stock setups.

EDIT: And it certainly wouldn't hurt to check your firing order.