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help! ready to give up on my car.

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air23cary

15+ Year Contributor
61
0
Aug 20, 2004
west orange, New Jersey
bought it last summer, came with small 16g set to 14 psi and turboback exhaust. car gets fuel cut/hesitation/bucking around 5k rpms and higher. added injectors, fuel pump, and afc to fix the problem but it didnt work. had dogbox racing, and a local mechanic, and an eagle dealership try to fix it and none of them could. one place said my TPS was bad so i replaced that with no luck. i have no boost leaks. supposedly ive been told its an electrical problem, well everything electrical was replaced. this is what the latest mechanic did after having the car for 3 weeks:

"test camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, mass air flow sensor, fuel pressure and wiring to engine and ecu, substitue ecu with known good unit....disconnect maf sensor and road test vehicle (ok): aftermarket turbo supplies too much air volume, maf sensor signal to ecu causes ecu to believe over-boost condition is present and shuts down fuel injectors (possibly size of turbocharger assembly affecting air flow signal)."

so now im told 16g's are too big for talons. yeah right.

i have been trying to fix this for almost 6 months and am ready to give up. my afc is tuned all the way down, my boost is only at 9 psi to prevent further problems until i can fix it (if that is possible). no one wants to work on my car because it is a waste of their time since they cant charge me for anything since they dont know what to do. i live in nj and pa.......i would be forever grateful if anyone can help me.........i just cant take this much longer. thanks.
 
Dunno if this is in the right thread you might actually get a better response in the performance forum since there isnt much people that look here (comparatively). First off does the car do this only under boost, full throttle? Or does it do it all the time? I think more precise details would help. I would take this to the tuning forum and ask about the safc controls, my best guess would be somewhere in there. Good luck. :)
 
car was messed up before i added the afc...........figured the afc would fix it............did not so the afc is basically turned off right now. mods are in the profile.........the afc is not the problem.
 
air23cary said:
car was messed up before i added the afc...........figured the afc would fix it............did not so the afc is basically turned off right now. mods are in the profile.........the afc is not the problem.
take the vacumm line off the fuel pressure regulator...it worked for me
 
I guess if I were in your situation. I would go back to the basics. Take off the extra stuff that hasnt fixed your problem (for now). Take off the AFC, put the stock injectors back in, put all the vacuum hoses back where the belong, and use a boost leak tester to see if you have boost leaks. I would bet you have some. Right now, it sounds like there are too many things going on to easily find the problem. Think about the last time it ran good, what has changed? Let us know what you find.
 
it never ran good, i dont know much about cars i had dogbox engineering and a couple other places try to fix it. i have no boost leaks whatsoever, dogbox fixed all of those.
 
1G Talons are forever known to be susceptible to fuel cut. First try removing the lower honeycomb from the MAF and then try backing out the screw under there some so it's no longer causing a restriction. Then try retuning the car with your AFC. You need to keep an eye on O2 voltage during tuning. Try and keep voltage around .90 to .92. While it's no permanent fix it should help. You may still hit fuel cut up top at higher boost levels and higher rpms, but it should make the car very livable.

If this doesn't work then you may need to try and purchase a translator with a GM MAF. This will solve it.
Or DSM link. www.dsmlink.com

Good luck.
 
victory guess what!! yesterday i got an oil change at valvoline instant oil change and i had them put in max life synthetic oil since i was burning a little oil, and aftewards i decided to push my car to see if it had any effect just for the hell of it. my fuel cut problems used to start at 5500 rpms. after the oil change it didnt cut till over 6k in 1st gear and there was just a little hesitation at 6500 in 2nd gear. 3rd gear fuel cut was gone. big difference. then today i had a friend help me remove the lower honeycomb and the silencer in the MAS, and my fuel cut is virtually 99% gone!!!! i even think in 3rd gear it didnt cut out till like 7500!!! my 1% concern is that 1st gear i think starts to break up a tiny bit before redlike, maybe like 6800-6900. in 2nd gear and after that it is definitely at or above redline. is this normal/ok? is this something that the afc tuning can fix?

now you also said this is no permanent fix.....is that a definitive statement or no? am i safe to turn my boost back up to 18-19 psi and retune the afc (i have a shop to do it)?

thanks for the help!!!
 
Don't be too worried about it after 6800 rpms, your cams stop making good power there. Just get it tuned to shift around 6700 or so and the car should feel stronger. I just added cams to my car and now it has A LOT more power up top, before I shifted at around 7,000. The car just wasn't designed to make it's best power up that high with the stock cams.
 
Also, when you tune it, try turning up the boost a couple psi at a time. Stop when you get too high of knock count or not enough timing advance. A good shop should be able to tune it to a safe level for your setup.
 
air23cary said:
1% concern is that 1st gear i think starts to break up a tiny bit before redlike, maybe like 6800-6900. in 2nd gear and after that it is definitely at or above redline. is this normal/ok? is this something that the afc tuning can fix?

now you also said this is no permanent fix.....is that a definitive statement or no? am i safe to turn my boost back up to 18-19 psi and retune the afc (i have a shop to do it)?

thanks for the help!!!


Yes, it's normal for it to break up at the limit just slightly. I'm not saying it's not a tune issue, because it may be. As for the permanent fix, it's not. It allows more air to pass by the MAF without being counted and moves you farther away from fuel cut. When you turn up the boost a lot you will probably run into it again (moving more air and over running the MAF). Follow my directions from earlier and stop paying a shop to do something you need to learn anyhow. If your not comfortable with that then have them tune it to get a feel for how it should be done, pay attention and begin to learn. It will be more gratifing for you in the end. Assuming you like to learn.

BTW, 18 psi is a great level for the 16G. I've actually run almost identical times on 18 psi as I have on 21psi. Go figure.

Good luck.
 
VICTORY-

i am so bad with cars its not even funny. there is absolutely no mechanical skill in my body. i dont feel comfortable working on my car and i want someone who knows what they're doing. that said.......

i went to another shop today.........to get tuned now that my fuel cut was basically gone after removing the lower honeycomb..........and i was pig rich. so rich that my old school afc couldnt lean out anymore. the shop said to get a gm maf and translator like you said. which i will do. but is it true i need a UICP and new air filter for it to work? i do not care about blowthrough, i just want my fuel to be correct. i do not want to spend 600 bucks after i've already spend thousands trying to fix the fuel. the shop did not mention anything about the new piping or air filter. i do have an aftermarket k&n but i do not know if its 3 inches or not.

i was wondering if a fuel pressure regulator would have been good to fix the richness now but the shop said the maft can do that and is better. do you agree? also i have to be going from rich to lean soon right?
 
the gm maft setup is way too expensive for me...........will a 2g mas fix my problem of running rich?
 
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