Help! oil pump lockup?

[boost1995]

Ok so i have a 95 tsi and it has a 1g swap. The problem i am having is the other day i pulled the car out of my garage to run it for a bit. Well i let it idle and warm up for a good ten minutes and the i reved it up to around 3 grand and all of a sudden it died and would not start back up. So i checked everything and finally came to the conclusion it jumped time. It was 4 teeth off at tdc on the cam gears.

Well i pulled it all apart and then took a few days off from working on it because i was extremely busy with my job. So i asked my friend another dsmer to put it all back together while i got some rest for work. The next day the car was running but there was alot of vibration and a loud buzzing sound that seemed to be coming from the rear of the engine. So i was investigating a bit and i reved the car back up to 2500~3 grand and the damn timming belt jumped 4 teeth again. I asked my friend if he checked all the pullies and he said he did and actually replaced the idler because it was stiff. Well today i ripped it back apart and checked it all over and.low n behold thr oil pump pully is hard to turn and there is alot of grinding. i did a bit of research and not alot of people have heard of a oil pump failing on a 1st gen. I do have another front housing here from a 2.3 galant engine and i believe the pump is relatively the same with the two big gears in the back and the balance shaft off the rear.

My question are....have any of you experianced this and any idea what would have caused this? Is deleting the balance shaft off the pump a good idea and what do i use to cap off the shaft journals? I do have a snub. And the belt has been removed from the other shaft. Also should i look further into the engine or is it ok to replace the pump and call it good. I did not bend any valves either time the belt jumped and there doesnt apear to be any metal in the oil. I will know more when i get the cover off and keep everyone posted. Thanks in advance.

 

[BogusSVO]

may not be the oil pump locking up.. but the balance shaft behind the oil pump.

 

[jimbob_843]

I agree ^^

 

[ed1380]

time to get a stubby shaft. or just cut the original one up.

 

[boost1995]

I do have a stubby shaft already cut. I was reading a bit about removing the balance shaft and i was wondering if i can get by without ordering anything. I want my car running today if possible

 

[hermangoodgame]

you can buy a balance shaft eliminator kit i got mine on e-bay for $15. IT gives more horse power and super easy to time now

not that i know of you need to cap off the oil journals on the balance shaft

there are two that need to be caped

 

[ed1380]

DO NOT get an ebay eliminator kit. their stubby shaft doesnt have the groove, which causes it to fail sooner.

if you want the car running today. turn the rear shaft into a stubby shaft. and just dont put the balance belt on. you can keep the front balance shaft in there without any problems and no need to turn the bearings around. but if you want higher oil pressure you can do that. I run diesel oil so I didnt bother with that.

 

[boost1995]

I do have an original shaft that i turned off on a lathe at work. So do i need to cap off just the journals on the front shaft? Will the rear shaft be fine just installing the snub? I havent been into a 4g63 motor this far yet but im by no means a mechanical illiterate . I just want to make sure i have it right the first time.

 

[ed1380]

you only cap off the front oil journals if you take out the balance shaft. in the rear you dont cap off anything. just install the stubby shaft and make sure the hole inside the shaft has been seeled.

 

[boost1995]

Ok good deal. I like the sound of that . I just got a evo 3 16g and im dying to het this thing back on the road. Thanks for all the info gentleman!

 

[L train]

If you cut your old shaft make sure you plug the oil suply to the rear of the shaft with a metal slug. For the clean look remove the top shaft pull the berrings and instal soft slugs. Instal a freeze plug In oil pump case I think its 35mm lock tight is your friend .use caution as the metal is thin there. I installed 2g pump gears that are helixed and are quiet and less prone to binding
you can turn you upper shaft crank pully down to reduce rotating weight if the mood strikes you. Yes this will take longer then an ebay kit but if you allready doing it do it right. Good luck

 

[boost1995]

Here is a pic of the balance shaft. There is no hole through the center.

 

[ed1380]

the original balance shaft has a hole going from the sprocket to the bearing surface. how do you thing the rear bearing is lubricated

 

[boost1995]

I understand but im wondering why this shaft does not nor did have a hole through the center?

 

[ed1380]

is this the original shaft that was in the car? was it full length with a weight at the end?

 

[boost1995]

Nope this is out of another block but yes it was a full shaft.

 

[ed1380]

Maybe that block feeds the rear balance bearing through the block

 

[mysticj]

DO NOT get an ebay eliminator kit. their stubby shaft doesnt have the groove, which causes it to fail sooner.

if you want the car running today. turn the rear shaft into a stubby shaft. and just dont put the balance belt on. you can keep the front balance shaft in there without any problems and no need to turn the bearings around. but if you want higher oil pressure you can do that. I run diesel oil so I didnt bother with that.

sorry for the bump but i have a few questions:
how long does the shaft needs to be? can i cut the shaft while its still attach to the oil pump/front case? I need this car to run ASAP.

 

[bryanwheat]

You are going to have to cut it and block the hole in the center off by welding or or tapping it and threading a plug in it. The pump will have to come off the engine, you will also have to turn the front bearings so that they block off the oil passages and block off the front hole. Some people leave the front shaft in place with no belt going to it, but i don't care for that. You will want to leave just enough of the balance shaft to be able to grab it with a pair of vice grips and torque the bolt holding the shaft to the oil pump gear.

 

[mysticj]

You are going to have to cut it and block the hole in the center off by welding or or tapping it and threading a plug in it. The pump will have to come off the engine

Its off but you mean the oil pump has to come off the front case?

you will also have to turn the front bearings so that they block off the oil passages and block off the front hole. Some people leave the front shaft in place with no belt going to it, but i don't care for that.

Yes the front BS is staying in.

You will want to leave just enough of the balance shaft to be able to grab it with a pair of vice grips and torque the bolt holding the shaft to the oil pump gear.

I thought about cutting the shaft were the counterweight begins. Probably this answer my question...priming? using grease?

 

[bryanwheat]

Its off but you mean the oil pump has to come off the front case?


Yes the front BS is staying in.



I thought about cutting the shaft were the counterweight begins. Probably this answer my question...priming? using grease?

Cut it as close to the pump that you can and still get ahold of it, if you don't than there will be a lot of extra weight on the end of the shaft. The shaft has to come out of the pump. There will be tons of metal shavings, you don't want that anywhere close to the oil pump.

 

[mysticj]

Cut it as close to the pump that you can and still get ahold of it, if you don't than there will be a lot of extra weight on the end of the shaft. The shaft has to come out of the pump. There will be tons of metal shavings, you don't want that anywhere close to the oil pump.

thanks