Help me put her back together again 95 N/T

[ECLIPSE95]

I was looking at some clutch articles on 2gnt.com and alot of them are talking about switching out the modular clutch for a non modular clutch by buying a 95 neon flywheel and ordering 95 neon flywheel bolts from satan and then ordering a non modular clutch for a 95 neon for a modular to non modular conversion? I'm thinking about doing this since it will be easier to do clutch jobs later...

 

[link16]

I was looking at some clutch articles on 2gnt.com and alot of them are talking about switching out the modular clutch for a non modular clutch by buying a 95 neon flywheel and ordering 95 neon flywheel bolts from satan and then ordering a non modular clutch for a 95 neon for a modular to non modular conversion? I'm thinking about doing this since it will be easier to do clutch jobs later...

My modular clutch was pretty easy to put in, from South Bend. I had no problems and the clutch in there had over 117k miles and the only amount of visible wear was a small line developing in the spider teeth. I love the modular...makes it easy. just my .02

 

[bullettdsm]

I was looking at some clutch articles on 2gnt.com and alot of them are talking about switching out the modular clutch for a non modular clutch by buying a 95 neon flywheel and ordering 95 neon flywheel bolts from satan and then ordering a non modular clutch for a 95 neon for a modular to non modular conversion? I'm thinking about doing this since it will be easier to do clutch jobs later...

I am currently running the non mod set-up. I used that because I like the flexibility of choices that I have. You have the process down correctly ^^. Right now I have a "cross pollenation" of parts in there. I am using an Audi/Passatt pressure plate (2500psi $160ish), with a dodge T4 clutchdisc from ($160ish from clutchnet.com) and a Neon Flywheel ($35 used). So you can see that for around $360 (with some slight modification) you can have what is pretty close to a stage 3 clutch set-up. I also have accessability to change out discs etc. should I so choose.

One thing though, it is actually a little more difficult to put on. Because the PP etc is bolted on to the flywheel, it is a little harder to slip the tranny bellhousing over (if in the engine bay).

FYI, I do have a couple of extra used Neon ($35) flywheels kicking around if you wish to go this way.

MB

 

[ECLIPSE95]

I am currently running the non mod set-up. I used that because I like the flexibility of choices that I have. You have the process down correctly ^^. Right now I have a "cross pollenation" of parts in there. I am using an Audi/Passatt pressure plate (2500psi $160ish), with a dodge T4 clutchdisc from ($160ish from clutchnet.com) and a Neon Flywheel ($35 used). So you can see that for around $360 (with some slight modification) you can have what is pretty close to a stage 3 clutch set-up. I also have accessability to change out discs etc. should I so choose.

One thing though, it is actually a little more difficult to put on. Because the PP etc is bolted on to the flywheel, it is a little harder to slip the tranny bellhousing over (if in the engine bay).

FYI, I do have a couple of extra used Neon ($35) flywheels kicking around if you wish to go this way.

MB

sure that sound good my email is [email protected] let me know..



still looking for evap/egr and evap purge valve and how they hook up...thanks

 

[bullettdsm]

I don't know if this helps any. You can see in the first pic the EGR valve attached to the block with three bolts. It has a metal gasket between the block and the valve. You can follow that big metal tube up to the intake (behind the TB in the second pic). It bolts there with a gasket and two bolts. The vac hose that comes off the egr, follows up, over the TB, and to the back side of the IM to a 3way split, on the end fitting of the IM (2wy if you don't have cruise control). Also, note in the 1st pic the electrical connection on top of the valve.

Maybe that will help?

MB

 

[ECLIPSE95]

Awsome that helps for the EGR the only other one im having troubles with is the evap hard lines its on the left side of the engine bay and it hugs the passanger side strut tower..I think the top hard line runs to the thottle body? and the lower hardline runs to the gas tank? and the two lines goto the carcoal canister I believe...this is what I have for pictures of it...NOTE THIS IS NOT MY CAR! these are hardlines that im buying off of ebay

 

[bullettdsm]

Oh, so you're making me work here, ? No problem, you're patient enough to go through this whole thing, I'll go with ya . Yes the top hard line does run to the top of the TB (you can see the hook-up on my second pic in the previous post). The bottom hardline runs over the power steering hose and hooks up to a hard line that runs toward the back of the car. From what I can see without (removing covers), the upper line runs from the TB to purge.

Mas (oops, that means more in spanish, not like 1g 2g mas, heh heh)?

MB

 

[ECLIPSE95]

Alright looks like I got all that covered finally, ripping all of that out was a big mistake but it looks like I can take care of it. hopefully I will have my fender in this upcomming week and I can get started.

 

[ECLIPSE95]

Well I got the fender on..took longer than I thought. The EGR valve and EVAP hardlines came in the mail...only one problem the evap hardlines have a kink in them.(probably from the engine removal) So I don't know if this is going to effect the EVAP system flow?

I'm thinking about buying a long block from car king..the only problem is the engine doesn't have any brackets on it of any kind. (just the head,block, timing belt and oil pan)

does anybody have a diagram of the 420a engine exploded view of all the brackets and whatnot? because I have no Idea how it all goes back on. Thanks in advance

 

[ECLIPSE95]

well, no new updates! I am in need of some help im totally stuck and I need some advice on what I should do and what I should tackle next? Still the wiring is a mess and I dont know how it all goes back together on the engine, I dont know how all the accessories bolt to the engine block, or how the engine block will get put back into the car. any advice on what do to next will help! thanks in advance dsmtuners. ~Dustin

 

[Shadow98]

Buy a Chiltons manual, it should help you quite a bit.

 

[ECLIPSE95]

Well im back at it! Im figuring out where most of what is needed to get the car done. I got my parts back from the powder coating today and they look great! (jet black). I'll post pictures later on tonight when I get home. Now I am pulling the transmission and getting everything cleaned up. I am taking the engine block and head to a engine shop where I will have it fitted for pisons, rods etc..But I'm kinda torn on what to do. Should I go turbo? (since this is the car I'm also going to keep, I've had it since I was 17) or just stick with minor bolt ons? Here is the catch though I don't have easy access to a dyno or tuning shop in my area and I don't want to put a whole alot of money back into this car...Suggestions??

I loaded up the picture of my valve cover I got back, I have alot of other parts powder coated as well...I just didn't take pictures of them...

 

[arturo74r]

Turbo = Money, just be aware of that.

 

[arturo74r]

whatever happened to your car I'm interested to know

 

[ECLIPSE95]

Well I try to keep up with updates when there is updates..

As of right now, im having funding issues. The 95 neon flywheel came in just a couple of weeks ago. I am still trying to decide if I should turbo it or not. I read alot about tuning and what not and megasquirt looks like the way to go. Except it is very very confusing and I dont have easy access to a dyno shop. If I were to to this my goal would be in the 350HP range....but again there is the money issue.

 

[arturo74r]

Oh ok. I guess we all have money issues as of right now . Just remember if you want to go turbo is going to cost you more! However if you plan to go turbo anyway it's better to do it now that to put back and then go turbo.

 

[Car_guy_09]

I would go turbo while you have it all out. Plus if you go mega squirt you wont need allot of the wiring your having problems with... Just my .02

 

[TalonESIT]

I would go turbo while you have it all out. Plus if you go mega squirt you wont need allot of the wiring your having problems with... Just my .02

But one of his main concerns is that he doesn't want to put a lot of money into this car. He wants to get it running again so he can drive it around, and honestly he may not be ready to go the turbo route... When you lay it out on the table, going turbo does get very pricey. I always say it, and I mean it when I say that I never regret going the turbo route, but it wasn't cheap and it wasn't easy....

 

[Car_guy_09]

But one of his main concerns is that he doesn't want to put a lot of money into this car. He wants to get it running again so he can drive it around, and honestly he may not be ready to go the turbo route... When you lay it out on the table, going turbo does get very pricey. I always say it, and I mean it when I say that I never regret going the turbo route, but it wasn't cheap and it wasn't easy....

Oh i agree 100%, but if he puts it all back together and then says "damn this things slow", Hes gonna wish he had went turbo to begin with instead of tearing back into it.

 

[TalonESIT]

Oh i agree 100%, but if he puts it all back together and then says "damn this things slow", Hes gonna wish he had went turbo to begin with instead of tearing back into it.

Yeah your right.... It would definitely make his life easier to go the turbo route now!

 

[ECLIPSE95]

Well im going to have this car for life...since its my first DSM. I don't want it to be slow, but if cost is going to be over 10k...well thats a lot of money

 

[Car_guy_09]

Well im going to have this car for life...since its my first DSM. I don't want it to be slow, but if cost is going to be over 10k...well thats a lot of money

I say turbo it for sure if you plan on keeping it forever, And i highly doubt it will cost that much unless you go crazy

 

[ECLIPSE95]

Ok well I decided to plunge back into it, I am getting futher out of debt so I am able to put more money into my car. I am taking the block in to get checked out to see if its usable, since its been out in the rain for quite some time until I decided to cover it with a tarp. I never thought I would be reusing it so I didn't care if it got rain on it. I decided im going to go with the turbo route! and I want to build it right and clean. I got some questions though.

Should I say with the heavy 95 Neon flywheel (stock) for a non-mod setup or buy a lightweight flywheel?(more money that can be better spent?).

as far as engine build up goes my goal is 300-350 WHP. I know I want to go with JE pistons 8.8:1 compression with eagle rods. but as far as bulding the head for this much power. What would be recommended? do I need aftermarket cams and adjustable cam gears? or can I have a stock head with a built bottom end?

Do I need any sort of ignition control? or can I just use a stock coil pack or MSD coil pack with what size spark plug wires and what spark plugs? stock?

The transmission is also being taken out and cleaned, but at the same time I am thinking about getting a LSD. Also before my car's engine blew, the transmission would grind in 3rd gear sometimes when I shift hard. It is possible that a syncro has gone out. But my transmission shop wants to rebuild the whole thing and thats going to be around 1700 dollars. I am still researching on LSD and how I can get one installed. Suggestions?

as far as turbo goes I may end out going with a full Hahn racecraft kit(but the price is high). I know I want to run the Hahn portfueler for fuel mangement. any ideas on a possible custom build turbo kit? which turbo would be best for this application.

I know lots of questions...but thanks in advance

Oh and what is the best place to order these parts for my 420a?

 

[TalonESIT]

Ok well I decided to plunge back into it, I am getting futher out of debt so I am able to put more money into my car. I am taking the block in to get checked out to see if its usable, since its been out in the rain for quite some time unitl I decided to cover it with a tarp. I never thought I would be reusing it so I didn't care if it got rain on it. I decided to go the turbo route! and I want to build it right and clean. I got some questions though.

Should I say with the heavy 95 Neon flywheel (stock) for a non-mod setup or buy a lightweight flywheel(more money that can be better spent)

as far as engine build up goes my goal is 300-350 WHP. I know I want to go with JE pistons 8.8:1 compression with eagle rods. but as far as bulding the head for this much power. What would be recommended? does I need cams and adjustable cam gears? or can I have a stock head with a built bottom end?

Do I need any sort of ignition control? or can I just use a stock coil pack or MSD coil pack with what size spark plug wires and what spark plugs? stock?

The transmission is also being taken out and cleaned, but at the same time I am thinking about getting a LSD. Also before my car's engine blew the transmission would grind in 3rd gear sometimes when I shift hard. It is possible that a syncro has gone out. But my transmission shop wants to rebuild the whole thing and thats going to be around 1700 dollars. I am still researching on LSD and how I can get one installed.

as far as turbo goes I may end out going with a full Hahn racecraft kit(but the price is high). I know I want to run the Hahn portfueler for fuel mangement. any ideas on a possible custom build? which turbo would be best for this application.

I know lots of questions...but thanks in advance

Hope I can answer as much as I can!

I'll leave the clutch questions for the more knowledgeable ones!

You have the right idea for your bottom end, I would suggest some ARP head studs to clamp the head down to that block nice and tight. Mitsubishi MLS head gasket as well. Our stock heads handle boost real well at the level that you are trying to aim for, so I think you should be fine for that. If you want more aggressive cams to help you attain your goal, then they would definitely help, but cam gears and camshafts aren't required either.

Ignition timing control will only be necessary if you plan to boost high, and this depends on your turbo choice. awddynamite (look him up) had a stock head with ignition control(left stock), and aftermarket cam gears zeroed out when he dyno'd at 400+. He had a real good tune, all about the fuel system, he had the portfueler too. They were going to tune my car, but I blew some valve seals and am in the process of replacing those before I bring it over to them.

As far as the portfueler alternative, a former 2Gnt member had an excellent write-up for a DIY 8- injector setup.

http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/8inj.html

I bought his original setup from him, along with the 034-EFI control module a while back. His manifold bungs broke off so I just bought the hahn portfueler adapter plate and continued to use the 034-efi.

With this setup and before I blew some valve seals I was able to dyno about 240whp @5400 un-tuned with a slipping stock clutch (11lbs of boost, mustang).


Hope this helps a bit. Good Luck!

 

[ECLIPSE95]

Thanks that helps out alot. I was looking at this turbo since I been researching it has great spool time the PTE SC-5031E 50 Trim and can handle up to 450 HP(over my goal)

Slowboy Racing :: DSM :: Turbos :: PTE :: T3 Turbine Housing :: PTE SC-5031E (T3 50 Trim with stage 3 turbine wheel)

But what I was wondering about on this turbo, it doesn't say if its internally or externally wastegated? It says with mitsu housing turbos weather or not its internal or external so why not the T3 sytle?

I was also looking into these flanges on ebay, but since its ebay I am asking you guys if this is a bad idea. Its a vband conversion for a T3 setup, which would make the downpipe alot easier to make.

eBay Motors: t3 t3/t4 5bolt downpipe flange to 2.5 v band adaptor (item 290240667488 end time Jun-29-08 12:10:49 PDT)

there are also 3" vband setups but I dunno. Suggestions?