Help Me Adjust My 6k Dragging Clutch

[spadepro22]

I've watched the Jacks Transmission video, but I don't know what to adjust. I've never adjusted a clutch in my life. Since this DSM has turned my into a mini mechanic I might as well try to fix this.

With that said, I took some pics under the pedal since I can't tell from the video. Jacks mention adjusting the switch. Which one is that in the pic? Which one is the one that I need to adjust the rod?

 

[Valerie]

The rod is going to be above the gas pedal, not directly above the pedal.

 

[92 GSR-4]

The switch that you will adjust is the one the pedal rests on when not being pushed in.

 

[spadepro22]

So this is the adjusing rod? It seems to be almost all the way out.

The switch that you will adjust is the one the pedal rests on when not being pushed in.

Ok so what I'm I going to do here?

 

[c2ypt1c]

So this is the adjusing rod? It seems to be almost all the way out.



Ok so what I'm I going to do here?

Loosen that nut behind the bracket and turn the entire rod (vise grips might help). If the clutch is dragging you'll probably have to turn it clockwise...

 

[spadepro22]

Loosen that nut behind the bracket and turn the entire rod (vise grips might help). If the clutch is dragging you'll probably have to turn it clockwise...

If I turn it clockwise, won't it make the rod less visible? From the Jacks video, I need to adjust it in until the slave can't be pushed in, but I don't have but a couple of threads left to adjust it in.

 

[DSMReviver]

When you are adjusting the clutch make sure you are looking from the engine bay to the cabin/interior of the car. Then you can determined if you need to turn the screw clock or counter clockwise.

If you are trying to adjust that screw from inside of your car looking toward the engine bay then you are adjusting that screw the wrong way.

One more thing to make notice; you cannot just screw that screw clockwise. you got to make sure you leave enough room for the clutch adjustment mounted on the transmission to be able to auto adjust it self.

 

[spadepro22]

So is my rod adjusted all the way in or all the way out? In Jacks video he goes in until the slave cylinder can't be pushed in by hand then backs out. If mines is adjusted all the way in and I can push the slave cylinder then I only have a couple of threads to adjust in.

I just comformed that I can push the slave cylinder by hand.

 

[spadepro22]

So is my rod adjusted all the way in or all the way out? In Jacks video he goes in until the slave cylinder can't be pushed in by hand then backs out. If mines is adjusted all the way in and I can push the slave cylinder then I only have a couple of threads to adjust in.

I just conformed that I can push the slave cylinder by hand.

Any help on this would be appreciated.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

You really need to take this into your own hands. You only have two options, in or out. You might have experimented and figured it out by now. At least I hope you haven't been sitting around since Sunday!

To increase the amount of disengagement you must increase the throw of the slave cylinder. This can be done by increasing the stroke of the master, via the adjustment rod. If you turn the rod "out" or clockwise (facing you, not the nose of the car) you will increase the stroke of the master cylinder.

If you can still depress the slave by hand then you still have the option of increasing the stroke of the master cylinder, without blocking the bleeder inside the master. How much? You'll have to be the one to decide. Good luck.

 

[spadepro22]

Ok the thing here is that to find a good starting point where the mc is adjusted in to where the slave can't be pushed in by hand requires me to adjust the mc clockwise. I can push the slave in now by hand but there is only a couple of threads left for me to adjust clockwise. If I'm in the car looking at the adjusting rod, clockwise is adjusting it in right?

 

[shampoo]

There's also the nut that brings the entire clutch pedal in and out.

I adjusted mine recently following Jack's instructions and I think I messed something up.

Try it the way it is now and see if it's dragging. If not then you're golden, if so then continue adjusting.

When I did it the way Jack instructed the clutch engagement was at the very top and it was very awkward to drive and there was no play at all. So I adjusted again, but now my clutch engagement into 1st is messed up and the whole car vibrates and shakes when I put her in. After that she's okay.

So, continue playing with it.

You won't break anything.

 

[spadepro22]

Can someone verify the direction I suppose to adjust the rod in to where I can't push in the slave cylinder when I'm in the car facing(looking) directly at the adjusting rod?

 

[kchaazz]

Loosen the jamb nut. grab the rod and turn it so that the rod is being unscrewed from the clevis, toward the firewall(counterclockwise, I believe). Wiggling the clutch pedal up and down slightly while turning the rod will make turning the rod very easy and eliminate the need for using pliers to turn the rod. If youve only got a couple threads left before the rod comes loose, be careful cause if the rod comes out of the clevis, youll have to remove the clevis pin to get the clevis into a position where you can screw the rod back into it.

 

[shampoo]

Loosen the jamb nut. grab the rod and turn it so that the rod is being unscrewed from the clevis, toward the firewall(counterclockwise, I believe). Wiggling the clutch pedal up and down slightly while turning the rod will make turning the rod very easy and eliminate the need for using pliers to turn the rod. If youve only got a couple threads left before the rod comes loose, be careful cause if the rod comes out of the clevis, youll have to remove the clevis pin to get the clevis into a position where you can screw the rod back into it.

Clockwise = rod is screwed into the firewall
Counter clockwise = rod is unscrewed from firewall

 

[PieEyedPiper]

...but there is only a couple of threads left for me to adjust clockwise.

Then use them. You'll know you've gone too far when there aren't enough threads left to hold the rod, or you can no longer depress the slave.

Shampoo has the lefty-righty business correct.

Also, feel free to screw the clutch switch out as much as possible while still allowing depression of the clutch switch - if you even still use it. I don't use mine but it is still present for that day that I decide I still need it.

 

[92 GSR-4]

Spadepro,

If the rod is adjusted all the way out, then the rod is adjusted towards the firewall, master cylinder, etc., etc. etc. "Away from the clutch pedal".

If it is adjusted all the way in, then its towards the clutch pedal, towards the "clevis" it threads into, towards YOU if you're sitting in the car.

If you adjust the rod out, it helps get the most out of the "stroke" of the master cylinder, thus helping disengage the clutch with less pedal travel. However, if you adjust it too far out, then it will close off a tiny valve/passage inside the master cylinder (from the plunger inside being pushed too far inside of it by that little rod) to allow backflow of brake fluid in the system. This, over time, can cause the clutch system to come out of adjustment because the clutch disc will wear thinner and the slave can't compensate - so you will start slipping. Or in the case of a friend of mine, who I just dropped the transmission last night to find out what failed inside his clutch, he had the rod all the way out to the point of the fork and throwout bearing were riding on the pressure plate 24/7 and the throwout bearing failed and caught on fire inside the bell housing. First thing I checked was his clutch adjustment and he had the rod all the way out.

To properly adjust the rod, do it like the Jack's trans video. Adjust the rod out until the slave can no longer be pushed in, then thread it back in until you can push it in. Leave it there. That gives you the max "stroke" of the master/slave cylinders while still allowing the clutch system to adjust normally.

If you're still having disengagement issues after you adjust the pedal, start inspecting parts. Master/Slave and clutch lines should not be leaking. You may have to shim the pivot ball and check step height on the flywheel.