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Help ID some parts... Boost issues & running rich.

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1GTalonTSI

15+ Year Contributor
46
0
Aug 21, 2003
Fumunda, Washington
OK so here is my car... I just picked up someone else' project. Unfinished of course. :thumb:

1992 Eagle Talon TSI AWD 2.0L Turbo. ($1500.00)

Newly rebuilt motor (about 1000 miles) with:
ARP main bolts, rod bolts, head bolts
2G Pistons on 1G rods, Total Seal rings
lightened flywheel
ACT Clutch
Custom Intake
high pressure fuel pump (walbro??)
2 ½” Cat-Back exhaust
high-flow Cat

So I come to find out these are ebay parts, so I need to ID them as I am having issues with boost etc, I am sure there are vacuum leaks etc. I am not totally new to DSMs but it has been some time since I have owned a 1GB. For the most part I have been lucky with the DSMs I have owned and did not have to mess with them too much.

MBC: I need to ID and adjust if necessary. (if i HAD a stock MBC I would put it back on)

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I am guessing this is a fuel pressure regulator? Dude told me it was not hooked up but would like to hook it up correctly or do away with it til I get it to run right.

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I just picked up a boost gauge to install tonight hopefully, it looks like it is already plummed in.

Thanks for any help.
 

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you are correct on both parts...or are you looking to find out what brand they are? ya i've seen something on e bay that looked almost identical to the top pic and it was an mbc. seems like a good fpr too i would just find a different place to mount it.
 
Yes, I need the parts ID'd so I can get whatever info I need from the manufacturer.
 
the FPR just needs a vaccum source the return line hooked up and then a way to plumb it into the fuel rail. You adjust it by turning the knob on the regulator itself. The MBC is homeade from HOME DEPOT or ACE. I would suggest taking it apart and making sure it was properly built. They are like 10bucks to DIY
 
The boost controller probably works just make sure it's hooked up in the right directions. As far as that fpr it's an ebay special megan look a like. Throw it in the trash (or sell it on ebay) it doesn't rise at a 1:1 ratio. Its suppose to be used for N/A.
 
The boost controller probably works just make sure it's hooked up in the right directions. As far as that fpr it's an ebay special megan look a like. Throw it in the trash (or sell it on ebay) it doesn't rise at a 1:1 ratio. Its suppose to be used for N/A.

GREAT, that is the kind of info I was hoping to get. I want to put all the stock parts back on it (after I locate them) and start from Zero, thank god this is not my DD. :D :thumb:

Again thanks for the input everyone.
 
Found this which was also a big help to me. I am going to get crackin on this in the AM if the weather holds up. ;) There is a link on that page that shows how to adjust the MBC which I was glad to see.

The "D.I.Y." Manual Boost Control
 
I got a cheapo brass ebay MBC that works great. Just be very very careful when you turn the boost up. 1/8th of a turn could be 5 psi more.
 
UPDATE:

OK I got the eBay FPR off, I am using the stock FPR, (the car seems to run a lot better) from what I understand on the diy MBC write up, turning counter clock wise is supposed to give you less boost right? Well this is the weird part. when taking off from a dead stop in first my boost gauge (sunpro) goes up to 5lbs pressure, in the rest of the gears it will jump from 15-19lbs. I backed that screw so far out it does not even look like it is touching the spring. When it is boosting high I am hearing a clicking or tapping, it is hard to tell because this car is so damn loud.

The boost gauge is tapped into the stock FPR line.
All known vacuum leaks were fixed.
Stock aircan was put back on.
A loose ground from the fram to the transmission was put back on.
Should I move the MBC from the intake? (Maybe the heat is affecting the spring?)
Should I just build my own, according to the DIY Link I am using, mine looks like it is hooked up correctly.

I would appreciate any suggestions at this point.

Thanks.
 
I'd say tap into somewhere else for your boost source. First is really short in these cars, so you normally don't make full boost before you shift. Use 2nd or 3rd gear to dial in your boost psi. If your going to use 3rd, make sure you have some space, 6,500-7,000rpm is ~90mph. If your still on a mostly stock fuel system (I didn't see injectors listed, so I'm assuming they're stock) then you want to keep the boost below 16psi manifold pressure. I'd say tap your boost gauge into the mbc line. Is the mbc tapped into the bov line or does it go to one of the connectors on the manifold?
 
I would try to unhook you mbc and blow thru it to make sure you are turning it the right way. also i would think that those noises that you are hearing in higher gears when boosting upwards of 19 psi is knock that you hearing. i would definatly not drive it hard untill you figure out the boost pressure situation.
 
I'd say tap into somewhere else for your boost source. First is really short in these cars, so you normally don't make full boost before you shift. Use 2nd or 3rd gear to dial in your boost psi. If your going to use 3rd, make sure you have some space, 6,500-7,000rpm is ~90mph. If your still on a mostly stock fuel system (I didn't see injectors listed, so I'm assuming they're stock) then you want to keep the boost below 16psi manifold pressure. I'd say tap your boost gauge into the mbc line. Is the mbc tapped into the bov line or does it go to one of the connectors on the manifold?

I can't even get ot 5K RPM without this thing boosting near 15PSI at chich point the car starts acting stupid. Yes my fuel injectors are stock. Yes MBC is tapped into the BOV Line. And NOW the boost gauge is tapped into the intake for now. See pic below.

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I have to be doing something wrong the MBC is not working. (please excuse the typo in the pic. boost gaguge)

I would try to unhook you mbc and blow thru it to make sure you are turning it the right way. also i would think that those noises that you are hearing in higher gears when boosting upwards of 19 psi is knock that you hearing. i would definatly not drive it hard untill you figure out the boost pressure situation.

OK so I pulled the MBC and blew thru the bottom and I was able to blow thru it. I turned the knob until I could barely blow thru it, took a drive it it seems as if nothing has changes at all. I have been only turning this thing a qtr turn at a time. the side with the ball is on the BOV side and the side nearest the knob is going to the wasegate. Also there is a little hole at the top, I am assuming that it is supposed to be the bleeder hole.

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I guess I need to know what do I need to look for as far and air going thru the MBC, a little restriction? total retriction?
 

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I was trying to make sure the mbc was still functioning "closes when closed ect.." try to keep it some what closed and reverse the lines going to the mbc it sounds like it might be hooked up backwards.
 
Up above, someone commented that you'd want to put your boost gauge on the MBC line - I wouldn't recommend that. I also wouldn't recommend tapping into your BOV line for your MBC. The top hole on that MBC should be connected to your wastegate plug and the bottom hole should be hooked up to your turbo output hole. This link may help you:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/237982-best-way-install-mbc.html
That hole should be there on the wastegate piece on your MBC. As for your boost gauge, I'd recommend the vacuum hose coming off the fuel pressure regulator relay - not the black hose with the blue stripe, but the other one. Make sure you start out with that MBC almost all the way loose - it doesn't take much tightening to make a lot of boost. Make very small incremental adjustments, such as 1/4 of a turn each go-around.
 
You need to mount that thing away from all the heat. I put mine on like 2 feet of hose, and tossed it behind the air filter back behind furthest away from heat as possible. It operates fine after I moved it.

G/L
 
I was trying to make sure the mbc was still functioning "closes when closed ect.." try to keep it some what closed and reverse the lines going to the mbc it sounds like it might be hooked up backwards.

I appreciate the input, It seems to be working correctly.

Up above, someone commented that you'd want to put your boost gauge on the MBC line - I wouldn't recommend that. I also wouldn't recommend tapping into your BOV line for your MBC. The top hole on that MBC should be connected to your wastegate plug and the bottom hole should be hooked up to your turbo output hole. This link may help you:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/237982-best-way-install-mbc.html
That hole should be there on the wastegate piece on your MBC. As for your boost gauge, I'd recommend the vacuum hose coming off the fuel pressure regulator relay - not the black hose with the blue stripe, but the other one. Make sure you start out with that MBC almost all the way loose - it doesn't take much tightening to make a lot of boost. Make very small incremental adjustments, such as 1/4 of a turn each go-around.

Thanks for the link, it helps a lot I am a visial learner. I origionally had the boost gauge tap where you suggested it will go back there ASAP.


You need to mount that thing away from all the heat. I put mine on like 2 feet of hose, and tossed it behind the air filter back behind furthest away from heat as possible. It operates fine after I moved it.

G/L

I moved the MBC yesterday, it was getting to hot to handle and I was worried about vibration from the motor.

Thanks again to everyone, I will get back at it for a little bit today.
 
OK I got it so I can control the boost, I am running it at 10PSI for now because it is stuttering around 11PSI. So now I will check double check for boost leaks, I am also losing oil at the feed line from the block to the turbo on the turbo side. (must fix that too) It looks like my exhaust manifold is cracked. LOL

BTW: I used this diagam to ID the correct spot to install the biist gauge.

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Thanks to all for your input...

I... :banghead: Love.... :banghead: my talon :banghead:
 
I am also losing oil at the feed line from the block to the turbo on the turbo side. (must fix that too) It looks like my exhaust manifold is cracked. LOL

You want to take care of these things: depriving your turbo of oil can cause it to fail
A cracked manifold will hurt spool and is not good for your engine.
 
I plan on checking the plugs/wires throughout the week as time permits, the car probably won't move until the weekend anyway.

As for the manifold I need to make a descision on whether or not to upgrade! :thumb:

I have killed a trubo or two in my day, so I will get that oil leak fixed.
 
Update: I know it has been awhile, but it has been a busy summer for me. BUT I got the new EVO monifold and crush washer in the car a few weeks ago. I am working on getting this thing running. BTW I got the new crush washers from a place called House of Hose, a lot cheaper than what the Mistu dealer wanted for them. :D I have yet to replace the plugs and wired, I did however pull them and checked the gap, they were set correctly. I am still bogging at just over 10PSI. I am taking the car to a local mechanic that specializes in DSM, so we will go from there.
 
Update II: First I want to thank everyone for their input and advice. The issue has been resloved, it was the spark plug wires. We swapped them out and it runs like a champ, just need to get the transmission swapped out and put all the body parts back on!
 
hey, good to hear. You could have got a wire set a while back for like 50 bucks, and been GTG. haha just messin with ya.
 
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