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95Eclipsers

20+ Year Contributor
348
1
Nov 4, 2002
Fairfield, Maine
Ok i just put new plug wires in my 95 tsi called Xact er sumthin, 7mm and they looked a lil longer from the start from the original ones so.... i put them in and started the car and it just when pop, put, put put, pop continuing so... i changed them all around everything u could thing of and my car wont run, HELP got a show to go to tommoro!
 
:confused: Ok i just put new plug wires in my 95 tsi called Xact er sumthin, 7mm and they looked a lil longer from the start from the original ones so.... i put them in and started the car and it just when pop, put, put put, pop continuing so... i changed them all around everything u could thing of and my car wont run, HELP got a show to go to tommoro!
 
Just for your reference, the firing order is (from front (closest to head) to back (closest to intake manifold)) 4 - 1 - 2 - 3.
 
Are you sure they are the right ones? If you put your old ones back on does it run? Personally I'd stick with NGKs wires, if your wires are cheap you can have weird problems. Also, are you sure you hooked them up in the right order on the coil pack? That would be my first guess. Good luck!


BTW, have some patience, this is a free forum, give people more then 15 minutes to answer your question!
 
I asked for ngk and teh asshole gave me these, and yes i have no clue what the order is!
 
95Eclipsers said:
can sumone gimmi a paint diagram....LOL please, im and audio man not mechanic

I'll give you a tip on what I do when I could use some nice diagrams. I usually go to Autozone's repair section, and see if they have a diagram. It's usually an EASY way to get torque specifications when manuals like Haynes tend to leave some out.

And they also have a section on firing order with pictures ;).

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1c/bb/2d/0900823d801cbb2d.jsp

Good luck.
 
I had a similar experience with new wires, the fix is easy.
The problem is probably inside the wire boot.
You have to make sure that the clip on the end of the wire inside the boot is attaching to the spark plug. The wire has 3 seperate parts, the wire, the rubber valve cover cap seal & the hard plastic extension tube,(which really is not required, but you will seperate the clip from the wire if you try to remove it. Actually the only essential part is the wire, but if you leave the valve cover cap seal off then you run the risk later that oil will get down into the spark plug well & short out the wire)
Shine a light into each boot & see how far down inside the tube the clip is positioned--If it's too deep in the tube, it won't mate with the plug,(& no spark) & you will have to adjust it's position closer to the end of the tube by carefully forcing the wire into cap seal & tube until the clip is near the end of the tube. Just hold the boot next to the plug to see about where the clip should be. You might have to wet it with wd-40 or armor-all to get the wire to slide.
What happens when you install the boot on the plug is that you hear & feel when the tube snaps into place on the ceramic portion of the plug, but this does not mean that the clip is snapping onto the plug connecter. There may or may not be a small click when the clip goes onto the sparkplug--the only proof is when the car runs right.
If you seperate the clip from the wire. you can crimp it back on & form the clip so it will grasp the spark plug with sturdy needle nose pliers.
 
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