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HELP getting very annoyed with clutch

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PaRaNORML

10+ Year Contributor
86
0
Apr 23, 2009
jacksonville, Florida
ok guys check it out i just had a new tranny put on with new clutch kit,the clutch wont disengage while driving, i can shift very smooth in all gears when car is off but when on cant shift, i checked the push rod on the slave and its pushed out to the limit!!!! how can i fix this so im able to shift? should i bleed the system? or is it something with the clutch itself?
 
I know you new but you really need to use the search button...clutch adjustment is a VERY common issue with these cars.You have severel things to check...the easiest being master cylinder rod adjustment..google "jacks transmission video" ...he specializes in dsm transmissions and provided a very informative clutch adjustment issues...after you adjust it..if you still have problems, then you need to dig further and check flywheel step height..pivot ball setup..slave and master cylinder condition and al that stuff.

Also bleeding never hurts, it should have been done when you replaced that stuff but we all know how shady shops can be.
 
If the slave piston is stuck all the way out, the prolblem is most likely instide the bell housing.

Something is not assembled right.
I'm assuming that it worked when you picked it up from the shop.
At any point did you here a good "thunk" noise and the pedal droped to the floor?
Is there resistance on the pedal, or does it just go all the way to the floor?
 
My talon did this before. I had a slave cylinder go out on me and I tried to replace it with a turbo slave cylinder seeing how cheap they are, well my talon was a 420A so needless to say it didnt work. It bolted up and pushed the clutch fork to what looked like it was enough but just wouldnt disengage. Try to bleed it and make sure everything is liked up properly.
 
If the slave piston is stuck all the way out, the prolblem is most likely instide the bell housing.

How? If the piston is all the way out, that would be a hydrolic issue, forcing the rod out all the way.If it was an assembly issue, there would be noticable issues with the fork, not the rod.
 
A stuck out piston could be a hydrolic issue. I've heard of the master cyclinders being adjusted out to the point where the sieze.

or

It could have over extended, and become stuck out, as mine did when my clutch fork broke clean in half.

If it stays out, it could very well mean that something is not pushing it back in.

Combind with the lack of the clutch disengaging ( at least, to me, thats what it sounded like was happening), I'd suspect a mechanical issue, maybe a bent fork, maybe worn pivots, incorect shimming on the fork,

If the piston were not stuck out, I would suspect a hydrolic issue, or a poor adjustmant.


Have a helper push the pedal while you watch. See if the slave piston is moving in and out. Take the slave off, don't disconect the line, you should be able to puch the cyclinder back in.

Also with the slave cylinder off, you can see if there is any play in the fork.
 
yeah it drove ok for like 5 minutes, they unplugged the engaement switch for the clutch,i re plugged that in,how can i release the pressure off the fork? just remove the slave? i have plenty of pressure on clutch but once u push down to a point its realy hard and stiff then sinks to the floor,any suggestions?

how could it ber a hydraulic issue if it has pressure? the clutch is stiff
 
A stuck out piston could be a hydrolic issue. I've heard of the master cyclinders being adjusted out to the point where the sieze.

or

It could have over extended, and become stuck out, as mine did when my clutch fork broke clean in half.

If it stays out, it could very well mean that something is not pushing it back in.

Combind with the lack of the clutch disengaging ( at least, to me, thats what it sounded like was happening), I'd suspect a mechanical issue, maybe a bent fork, maybe worn pivots, incorect shimming on the fork,

If the piston were not stuck out, I would suspect a hydrolic issue, or a poor adjustmant.


Have a helper push the pedal while you watch. See if the slave piston is moving in and out. Take the slave off, don't disconect the line, you should be able to puch the cyclinder back in.

If his fork was broke, it wouldnt be engauging.A lack of disenguagement means the fork isnt returning to its resting position.This is from not having the master adjusted correctly.There is a bleeder in the master that allows the system to self adjust keeping good pedal feel as the disc wears down.If the master rod isnt adjusted right, it will block the bleeder creating to much pressure. The other problem would be if they incorrectly shimmed the pivot ball, not the fork.There is no shimming the fork, think about it.You shim the pivot ball with washers to compensate.If you shim to much it will also not disengauge.I personally am not a fan of shimming.I did it once years ago when i was dumb.There is a forever going debate on shim vs no shim.I vote if all components are new/good condition, there is no need to shim.I have installed a dozen clutches on these cars and replaced pivotball/fork and properly stepped the flywheel and never had issues.I have talked with jack at jacks transmissions and he provides interesting points on why it is necessary under certain applications, however I have yet to need to do it.
OP, crawl under the car and pop the the rod out by hand and check the fork.As it rests, it should be just a hair closer to the drivers side of the tranny.Seriously, search and go to jacks trannsmission and watch the videos.This is a BEATIN topic.
 
everything is new,new clutch,slave,flywheel im using a 6 bolt flywheel becuase i have 1g block and 2g head
 
ok so what do i need to do? remove the slave but not the line and push the rod back in position then check the fork for any play?
 
empie suggested that, so excuse me buddy, im just trying get my car rollin,but its coool i understand
 
If his fork was broke, it wouldnt be engauging.A lack of disenguagement means the fork isnt returning to its resting position.This is from not having the master adjusted correctly.There is a bleeder in the master that allows the system to self adjust keeping good pedal feel as the disc wears down.If the master rod isnt adjusted right, it will block the bleeder creating to much pressure. The other problem would be if they incorrectly shimmed the pivot ball, not the fork.There is no shimming the fork, think about it.You shim the pivot ball with washers to compensate.If you shim to much it will also not disengauge.I personally am not a fan of shimming.I did it once years ago when i was dumb.There is a forever going debate on shim vs no shim.I vote if all components are new/good condition, there is no need to shim.I have installed a dozen clutches on these cars and replaced pivotball/fork and properly stepped the flywheel and never had issues.I have talked with jack at jacks transmissions and he provides interesting points on why it is necessary under certain applications, however I have yet to need to do it.
OP, crawl under the car and pop the the rod out by hand and check the fork.As it rests, it should be just a hair closer to the drivers side of the tranny.Seriously, search and go to jacks trannsmission and watch the videos.This is a BEATIN topic.

I agree with you on shimming, better to just replace all parts while its apart and be done with it. Had i know that when I did mine, I wouldn't have had to take the tranny out again to replace the fork.

your confussing me on the engauge/disengauge. I would say the clutch is "engauged" when it is up against the preassure plate. and "disengauged when your foot is on the clutch pedal and the hold of the clutch is released.

Being able to shift with the car off, but not runnning, would suggest that the clutch is not disengauging.

I would check to see that the piston on the slave could be pushed back in. You may be just looking at a bad bleed, at least thats what it sounds like with your pedal symtoms.
 
thank you jag, and i agree this site is for people to help others not attack . thankz jag and empie for your time and infoo and i apologize to you both ,just realy aggrivated
 
my apologies snowboarder,im just looking for help and i think jag lead me in a good direction
 
Hahaha...I love that this forum just deletes things before they erupt into a argument...good job snowboarder.:)
Paranorml, what do you mean jag lead you in the right direction?I think I explained your clutch system pretty good...LOL
 
Lol yeah empie you did also, i marked your post as helpful and thank you again man,im going to try it out shortly and ill let you know what the result was
 
ok so i bled the clutch and have great pressure , car started but a couple grinding sounds occured before the initial crank,i was able to shift in all gears smoothly with the clutch but WTF is this grind sound before it cranks up?the clutch still feels a lilttle weird also like it doesnt fully disengage or engage at some points, i gues i need to bleed it a little more
 
Did you search for the adjustment video by Jack's Transmissions yet? You can find it on their site or on YouTube. I would do this next. And if you can't get it to adjust per the video, you probably have a problem with something in the hydraulic system.

Also some good info here.
RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info


FYI, the "mark this post as 'helpful'" link doesn't work for normal users - only for mods/wisemen. Normal users have to use the Reputation Recommendation subforum for anything they feel deserves rep points.
 
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