Help -- Electrical problem

[alex1777]

Hi,
Here is my problem. I was driving my car and all of a sudden, my radio starts turning off and on. It does it about 8 times then the radio just stayed off. I noticed my guages, which are electrical, were dropping slowly. Then I turned on my blinker to change lanes, and everytime my blinker went, my guages dropped. not all the way but about half. Then I drove it down interstate for about a mile. I was going to pick up my bro at the car dealership. I got there and it was still losing electricity. So, I went and listened to the engine and it was idling really rough. I shut it off and it started back up and worked fine for the rest of the day. So, I thought it was just a fluke and ignored it. Then yesterday, I was driving home from college on interstate. It started doing it again. So, I pulled into a rest area and I listened to the engine again. It was idling rough again. So, I shut it off. I let it cool down a bit, because it seemed kinda hot. Then I felt the upper radiator pipe and it felt like it was boiling inside. Finally, I tried starting it up and it didn't crank. I tried again like 30 minutes later. It cranked and started so, I drove down the interstate a few more miles. After about two miles, it started losing power again. It wouldn't accelerate much and when I turned on the blinker you could tell there was a serious loss of power. So, I knew that the battery was about done. I pulled over and when I took it out of gear, it died. It sat on the road as I waited for help. I let it cool down good and then tried cranking it about 10 different times, but the battery was about shot and it only cranked over like a half a time...not enough to start it. I had the electrical system tested at auto zone a while before this and they told me my alternator was only charging like 14 something when it should be doing more like 16. So, I think the problem is in my alternator, but why would it overheat too. The water pump is mechanical right? I know the fans would be going slower, but I was going 60-80 down interstate. Would they even need to turn? Please help me out if you think you know the problem. I was thinking it was just my alternator was toast, but if you have some insight, please share. Also, how far can you drive on a full battery without it charging, anyone know? It is about 200 miles away from my home right now, I was hoping maybe I could just get a extra car battery or two and just swap them and hopefully make it home. Would this be bad for the engine, when ever it would start to lose power, I would stop and swap it for sure. The problem with just trailering it is that it is quite low and would not be fun to try and get it on a trailer. Sorry the post is long, I tried to give an accurate description.

Thanks,
Alex

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Are you sure you were overheating? The only way to know for sure is either through a datalogger, or, less accurately, by looking at the coolant temperature gauge. The needle on the gauge should never be more than about 1/2 way up. Simply feeling the upper radiator hose is no way to tell engine temperature; that hose will often get extremely hot under normal operation.

Swapping new batteries in your engine won't directly harm anything, but it sounds like an expensive solution. Once you get it home, replace the alternator right away.

 

[luv2rallye]

Correct output voltage for the alt at 68F is 13.9-14.9V. Get a new one or have it tested at an alt repair shop - NEVER test at an auto store (they only test go/no go dc voltage). You can typically get 30-50mi on a fully charged battery with no alt. if you keep all accessories off. I did it for 180mi and stopped whenever it got low (started jerking) and had a another car going with me jump it for 15 min to charge it up again.

 

[BOOSTJUNKIEGSX]

I had a similar problem that might help...

I was installing a 50 trim.. and i didnt disconnect the battery . I blew a fuse for my alternator which i did not know and after the install i went for a ride and weird shit was happening. My radio would open and close ect., if i turned my lights on my horn would go off blairing, when my door was open my lights would go on, i tried opening my window and my wiperblades would go on. I had an electrical problem before so i thought it came back.. I called it a nite and the next day went to Homedepot to get parts HAHA and the car died! Would not start.

Turned out everything was happening because when the fuse blew the car ran off the alternator and then off my battery until it had enough! culprit could be the alternator!! Hope this may help!

 

[alex1777]

Thanks for the help. I think I will just charge it up good and head back to where I am at college and replace the alternator there. I am at home now, but has anyone replaced one before and could just run through the main points and what tools I will need to take from home.
Thanks
Alex

 

[alex1777]

Are you sure you were overheating? The only way to know for sure is either through a datalogger, or, less accurately, by looking at the coolant temperature gauge. The needle on the gauge should never be more than about 1/2 way up. Simply feeling the upper radiator hose is no way to tell engine temperature; that hose will often get extremely hot under normal operation.

Swapping new batteries in your engine won't directly harm anything, but it sounds like an expensive solution. Once you get it home, replace the alternator right away.

With the overheating, I was just feeling the upper radiator hose because both guages I have watching water temp, stock and aftermarket one, are electrical. I was thinking maybe they were influenced by the lack of juice in the battery/alternator too. The reason being was that the guages didn't read hot, but when I shut it off and then turned the key back to the accesory position, It read a bit higher. This was after the car was off for like 5 minutes, so I don;t think it cooled down too much.

 

[luv2rallye]

..run through the main points and what tools I will need to take from home.

All nuts/bolts are 12mm so get a 12mm socket w/rachet, a 2" and 12" extension, and 12mm box end wrench. Disconnect one battery terminal, remove black plastic vertical partition from under car next to alt and oil filter cooler (so there is room to pull bottom alt mounting bolt out), pull out alt electrical connector while pressing locking tab (wiggle and press and pull hard), undo nut that holds large electrical cable onto alt and remove it (this is hot so tape wire up so it will not touch anything and don't let wrench touch metal - in case battery gets reconnected before its back on), remove upper adjustor locking bolt that holds alt to brace, loosen tensioner screw, if now can push alt back enough to remove belt do so, remove bottom mounting bolt nut (just above oil filter - remove filter if need to), drive out lower mounting bolt (that you just took nut off), remove drive belt if haven't yet, remove alt (will have to wriggle back and forth a lot and pull hard, bring alt out bottom). Pic below shows alt with tensioner (power steering pump is removed).

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=60800&d=1140826833

 

[alex1777]

All nuts/bolts are 12mm so get a 12mm socket w/rachet, a 2" and 12" extension, and 12mm box end wrench. Disconnect one battery terminal, remove black plastic vertical partition from under car next to alt and oil filter cooler (so there is room to pull bottom alt mounting bolt out), pull out alt electrical connector while pressing locking tab (wiggle and press and pull hard), undo nut that holds large electrical cable onto alt and remove it (this is hot so tape wire up so it will not touch anything and don't let wrench touch metal - in case battery gets reconnected before its back on), remove upper adjustor locking bolt that holds alt to brace, loosen tensioner screw, if now can push alt back enough to remove belt do so, remove bottom mounting bolt nut (just above oil filter - remove filter if need to), drive out lower mounting bolt (that you just took nut off), remove drive belt if haven't yet, remove alt (will have to wriggle back and forth a lot and pull hard, bring alt out bottom). Pic below shows alt with tensioner (power steering pump is removed).

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=60800&d=1140826833

wow, thanks for the help. I will let you know if I have any other problems.