Heat issues

[DSM-Hottie]

Ok so here it goes!
Replaced the thermostat July 3,2009, new 50/50 and water wetter. still decided to try and over heat on me, crank the heat and kick the a/c fan on and she cools right off.

found a hole in my stock 11yr old plastic radiator, just installed a mishimoto alum radiator and did a full prestone radiator flush before i installed the new mishimoto and the heat gauge still tries to move.

should I just ignore this issue or should I keep tearing into the car?

Normally she sits right on the first squiggly on the thermo gauge and she raises to the second squiggly and sometimes higher but never goes into the RED.

help please, side notes shes a 99 GSX with orig motor (177k).

 

[Dsmj89]

Is your water pump good ? Made sure it's not worn/cracked, and thus leaking ?

 

[dsmcurse]

burb the coolant system for any air pockets? maybe replace the coolant temp sending unit sensor. its cheap and easy. maybe the temp sensor isnt very accurate any more.

 

[DSM-Hottie]

How do I get the air bubbles out? The water pump is Jan 2009. No leaks. Should I maybe try a cooler thermo? I just got a stock napa replacement.

 

[Defiant]

DSMs do not need "burping".

No, a cooler thermostat will not make the engine cooler. Thermostats warm engines, radiators cool them.

You may have a waterpump with a plastic impeller which is coming apart.

Have you tested your temperature sender?

 

[rush2252]

Water Pump.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

DSMs do not need "burping".

He speaks the truth.

Have you also tested your radiator cap? And what are the conditions of your coolant hoses?

 

[DSM-Hottie]

New water pump()1/09) new radiator cap 6/09 all the coolant hoses are new, got new ones when I installed the mishimoto. I am currently sitting in kent washington right now waiting for her to cool off. Any slight hill and her thermo gauge goes up. I got off to get food, idling she's normal, I give her gas and it spikes. Popped the hood everything is normal.
Going to get new coolant sensors today.

 

[dsmcurse]

i disagree. explain to me why dsm's do not need to have the coolant system bled of air pockets in the system. what makes it any differant than any thing else? explain to us all why "burping the system" isnt needed. not trying to sound like a buster but i would really love to here why. and ive yet to come across any 4g63 water pump that uses a plastic impeller. i dont think even mexico produces such a cheap pump for this car. dsm-hottie, you can go to the v-faq site and theres explanation and step by step by step instructions to bleeding the coolant system. very easy to do. im not sure why it would be in there (or the chilton book) if it wasnt needed.

 

[black_gst]

an aftermarket water temp sensor is a great investment, about $40... the stock one on my car stays in the same place from 180-210 so its not really good to go by it. and i always bleed my cooling system also, but would be interested to hear why its not needed.

 

[dsmtun3r98gst]

i disagree. explain to me why dsm's do not need to have the coolant system bled of air pockets in the system. what makes it any differant than any thing else? explain to us all why "burping the system" isnt needed. not trying to sound like a buster but i would really love to here why. and ive yet to come across any 4g63 water pump that uses a plastic impeller. i dont think even mexico produces such a cheap pump for this car. dsm-hottie, you can go to the v-faq site and theres explanation and step by step by step instructions to bleeding the coolant system. very easy to do. im not sure why it would be in there (or the chilton book) if it wasnt needed.

believe it or not but when i replaced my water pump the impeller was plastic . keeps it from getting rusted. it didnt look cheap though but who knoes. looked like the same material they used to make the crash bumper support

 

[dsmcurse]

if theres a air pocket in the system it'll create steam. that steam is SUPER hot. its gotta be pure fluid circulating in there. is this incorrect?

 

[saechao04]

Did you happen to put the fans in the wrong way when you replaced the radiator?

 

[Defiant]

i disagree. explain to me why dsm's do not need to have the coolant system bled of air pockets in the system. what makes it any differant than any thing else? explain to us all why "burping the system" isnt needed.

The radiator cap is the highest point in the system, and the overflow is located there. Filling the cooling system does just that. If there is any residual air, it'll be carried out to the expansion tank and purged there. When the system cools back down, it'll draw in coolant to replace any air that may have been lost- which will be none in the first place. Three cycles and there will be no air in a sealed DSM cooling system.

Some cars not only have to be burped, but their cooling system layout is so poorly-designed that they actually have bleed screws, or require loosening of a heater hose in order to vent them when filling. DSMs do not have this failing.

 

[dsmtun3r98gst]

The radiator cap is the highest point in the system, and the overflow is located there. Filling the cooling system does just that. If there is any residual air, it'll be carried out to the expansion tank and purged there. When the system cools back down, it'll draw in coolant to replace any air that may have been lost- which will be none in the first place. Three cycles and there will be no air in a sealed DSM cooling system.

Some cars not only have to be burped, but their cooling system layout is so poorly-designed that they actually have bleed screws, or require loosening of a heater hose in order to vent them when filling. DSMs do not have this failing.

Yup thats right Defiant!!!

 

[black_gst]

ok i see what you mean... i know that the cooling system would bleed itself.. i just like to burp it a little just to help it along... makes sense though
thanks!

 

[dsmcurse]

ive personnaly have worked on the car, then drove off and litteraly within minutes of driving had my temp gauge rise to like 80% full. pulled over and carefully cracked the radiator cap and a bunch of steam blows out. after that every thing is fine. gauge would never read over 40%. weired to think that a hot/cold-hot/cold cycle would fix its self. not saying your wrong cause it makes sense. i just know lots of people that warm their car all the way up to normal operating temp with no cap on to bleed system of air pockets after servicing the coolant system. i like how you exlpained it tho, does make sense.

 

[dannyd97gst]

To help op, I'll answer a question with a question. When does the temp. start to climp, at hwy speeds, slow speeds, or at idle? Like said before the impeller on the pump may be cavitating and this is not only for metal impellars but the phenolic impellars too, not sure if this is a common issue on dsm's but is on other makes. If your temp. only goes up at slow speeds or lower rpm's, in theory the water pump may not be flowing enough volume.

 

[southrneclipser]

dsm hottie you should recheck all your hoses. sometimes when i take off my coolant hoses i don't put them on right so they leak a little bit ( not enough do drip) but enough to make it run hot. An after market water temp guage would be very beneficial so you would know exactly what your running at.

 

[dannyd97gst]

ive personnaly have worked on the car, then drove off and litteraly within minutes of driving had my temp gauge rise to like 80% full. pulled over and carefully cracked the radiator cap and a bunch of steam blows out. after that every thing is fine. gauge would never read over 40%. weired to think that a hot/cold-hot/cold cycle would fix its self. not saying your wrong cause it makes sense. i just know lots of people that warm their car all the way up to normal operating temp with no cap on to bleed system of air pockets after servicing the coolant system. i like how you exlpained it tho, does make sense.

Same thing happened to my Jeep after a water pump replacement. One of my technicians at the chrysler dealer told me to remove the ECT sensor to bleed the system and I did not due to the fact that the radiator cap was the highest point in the system.

 

[rush2252]

Since she fails at responding quickly ill try to answer the last tech question to her. She advd me via text that it only over heats when under a load example going up a hill etc. Its an auto if that matters to any of you. I advised her to check the belt to make sure its ok, as well as the water pump. Its almost a year old. I also had the suggestion of a huge wad of "gunk" in on of the coolant passages. She is replacing the temp sensor for $3 and hoping that fixes it though. I am still saying water pump.

 

[DSM-Hottie]

Well thank you Kolby! Lol its only under a load. Well I changed both temp sensors and so far she's reading normal went up big hills on my way to and from work and she's staying on the first squiggly, so, so far its running normal again. I will keep you guys updated! Thank you for your suggestions and help!

 

[rush2252]

say car ramrod!

 

[BoostFrenzy]

ive personnaly have worked on the car, then drove off and litteraly within minutes of driving had my temp gauge rise to like 80% full. pulled over and carefully cracked the radiator cap and a bunch of steam blows out.

There needs to be a small level of water/coolant in the overflow bottle for it to suck up when the air escapes. Then you are replacing air with water/coolant and it does the rest from there.

Not saying burping the system isn't an okay thing to do, just not needed on a normal dsm. I currently have to burp the system because of where I had to mount the overflow bottle because of the UICP routing.