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2G Headgasket?

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Boostedmm17

Proven Member
101
4
Feb 6, 2017
Lincolnton, North_Carolina
Okay so I went into this car not knowing if it ran or not. It's a 99 Spyder GST 5speed 230k. I had to put a turbo on the car because it didn't come with one (t25).
So I went to go out coolant in it and burp the system, when I noticed as soon as I pour water in it you can see it slowly mixing with something making it brown. Then it started bubbling really bad. So I drained it out and heres what it looks like.

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The compression test is as follows
Cylinder 1-0
Cylinder 2-140
Cylinder 3-100
Cylinder 4-130

Now one more thing im almost positive why all this happened. The previous owner had a 18g on the car. At first I was thinking okay so it's probably got ARP headstuds.. oh boy was I wrong, still has stock head bolts. So could the headgasket be causing all these problems?
 
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That "coolant" looks like its just rusty in the block. Prolly sat with no coolant in it for a while and rusted up inside. I have success with running nothing but pure pickling vinegar through the motor. I let it get up to temp and then let it idle for like an hour and then sat and soaked for 24 hrs. When I drained it all of the "vinegar" smell was gone meaning it had 100% reacted with the rust....so I filled it up with new vinegar and did it again....took 3 flushes to finally get the rust out (last flush had a very strong vinegar smell when drained). The drained flushes were so so so brown and rusty and had flakes and chunks of rust in them....the last flush was almost clear....just a slight tan color to it.

My motor sat for 3 years with no coolant and was super super rusty.

Past that it's likely your head gasket isn't sealed or its blown. To do it cheaply/quickly I'd put some ARP's in there (or a new set of stock studs) and torque it all down properly and see if that fixes it

To do it properly get a new gasket and studs to ensure its not that.
 
Yeah the car sat for a year before I got it, so that could be it. I'll try the vinegar and see what it does for sure.

That's what my plan is for now, I just ordered a felpro head gasket and head bolt set. Should be here tomorrow hopefully. It doesn't over heat or anything just loses coolant when driving and no compression on number one. Just my luck I guess.:cry:
 
Yeah it's weird it runs ruff when there's no coolant in it, but with the coolant all the way full it's kinda okay. I know it's not good either way.
I plan on taking a flat edge and a feeler gauge to check the head and block before I put it back together. In hoping it's all okay so I can have it back in running order tomorrow.
 
And the coolant disappeares instantly if you go up the road a mile and back. But it's not leaking at idle and no smoke while driving. I did notice when I took the oil cap off there was smoke coming out of it.
 
If there's no compression in cylinder 1 and the cooling system isn't holding coolant then something is definitely wrong. Especially if it's not leaking onto the ground or burning up and coming out of the exhaust.

Get a pressure tester from Advance Auto Parts and pressure test your cooling system and see if you can locate the leak somehow. You might also consider checking the oil to see if it's contaminated. I don't know exactly what would cause smoke to come out of the valve cover when you remove the oil cap ... it may simply be that the engine is overheating and the oil is starting to get hot and burn a little.

I'd also check the head to see if any of the cylinders have any cracks or splits in them which might cause the coolant to leak into the cylinders. It might also be that something piston-related is causing cylinder 1 to have 0 compression. Good luck! :D
 
It says final torque spec is 15ft/lbs? I don't have it in front of me but that can't be right.
The torquing, loosening, torquing process is to get the proper bolt stretch.
 
Okay yeah that sounds more like it. This is just assuring the bolts have the proper stretch. Those last steps are going to increase torque on the bolt significantly.
 
So guys the head gasket didn't fix it. #1 cylinder is up from 0 to 10 now. Woooow. Ha but every other cylinder was the same.
I did a wet compression test and this is what I got.
#1 60
#2 185
#3 159
#4 190
 
How is I see if it's the valve stem seals? Because I know now it could be the piston rings/bore or valve stem seals. I forgot to mention I used water to test the valves seating. It passed on that. So all I can figure is it could be those two things. But I have no clue how to check either one.
 
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