Head Swap Question --> Machining?

[johnovision27]

Fristly, already posted this in another forum, but feared it would get deleted, so i'm double posting.. SRY!!!!

anywho...recently threw a rod in my 4G63. Went out, got a new engine but I want to use the head off the blown one. All the valves are A-ok, no damage to the head what so ever.

Questions is, do I have to get the block and head machined to match, or can I just swap heads on the good block and call it a day?

 

[Afroclipse]

Fristly, already posted this in another forum, but feared it would get deleted, so i'm double posting.. SRY!!!!

anywho...recently threw a rod in my 4G63. Went out, got a new engine but I want to use the head off the blown one. All the valves are A-ok, no damage to the head what so ever.

Questions is, do I have to get the block and head machined to match, or can I just swap heads on the good block and call it a day?

Have them resurface the head, get some new ARPs and 3mm lifters while you at it.

 

[rlacasse1]

I would at least get the head resurfaced. And as long as you have the block out you might as well get it decked. It's good to, but its not 100% necessary.

 

[LiquidX]

If you want to save on cost, just first see if they NEED resurfaced. If both planes are level then there is no need to have it done unless you want to run a MLS head gasket. A composite gasket can hold a good bit of boost which I think is around 28ish psi with ARP studs.

 

[babell2]

Im in the same boat as you and agree with the last poster. If the head that came off is flat and smooth, the new block machined flat, done deal new gaskets ARPs everything should be fine.

 

[johnovision27]

The block is a JSM import. So, check the head to make sure it's smooth and level? Any DYI way of doing that?

Already have ARP headstuds, only torqued once.

Why the lifters??

 

[LiquidX]

The block is a JSM import. So, check the head to make sure it's smooth and level? Any DYI way of doing that?

Already have ARP headstuds, only torqued once.

Why the lifters??

JSM?

You could do it yourself if you have a machinist bar that is 100% flat and straight. Just take it to a machine shop to have them check the plane. If it needs resurfaced, then it's already there and they can do it.

The lifters (3g/revised lifters) are redesigned lifters that have a larger oil port which will help eliminate knocking. 3g does not stand for the lifters out of the 2000 year Eclipse, just a heads up.

 

[johnovision27]

haha, i meant JDM. oops. /
My buddy had a machine bar, and there was less then .003 at all the points, so i just went ahead and put it on there.
Note to all, matching up the tranny is the WORST part about engine swaps!! but aside from that, she'll be up and running again today. thanks folks

 

[adamtsi]

When using a true bar to check for flatness of the mating surfaces you want to lay it across length ways, then diagonal from corner to corner both ways. Typically you want less than .003" but less is definitely better. The same goes for the block

 

[One Equals Two]

Haha, ya'll probably think this is nuts, but I watched a head get done by hand sanding last week, and it runs perfectly. It was bad too. If you're good and know what you're doing, you can do it. But if you have any fears and are shaky or sloppy with anything, just get it machined if it needs to be done.

But I agree, just check first, and if it doesn't need to be done, don't do it.