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Hallman es boost controller leak

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philly3384

Probationary Member
14
0
Jan 29, 2006
manville, New Jersey
WHen its all the way closed it is fine and doesnt leak when its opened why does it leak out so much i think its supposed to do that but , under a load it seems like a lot.
 
The source, preferably turbine/j-pipe but could be the BOV, goes to the opposite end of the adjustment knob. And the side fitting goes to the WG actuator.

The MBC is designed to leak somewhat, that is how it "controls" the signal going to the WG. That is also why you disconnect the MBC when doing a boost leak test.


Jim
 
philly3384 said:
what do u mean i have it in backwards?

Switch the two vacuum hoses on it. Are you doing a boost leak test? As I read your post I took it as you had vacuum leak. When mine was in backwards, I had a small vacuum leak from the controller and it would only boost up to about 5 or 6 PSI. If I took your post wrong, please elaborate a little so we can pin point your problem.:thumb:
 
philly3384 said:
what do u mean i have it in backwards?

You can put the boost controller on backwards. I am not for sure if you do or not, but if you look at one of the fittings it will have a hole in it. According to oldman, that fitting is suppose to be there to release the pressure between the mbc and the wastegate to keep the wastegate from staying open. This is exactly what he said (I wasn't for sure if the hole was suppose to be there or not):

"The bleeder hole is suppose to be there, it releases pressure in between mbc and actuator after the ball in the mbc moves back towards its original position blocking the path, this is to prevent pressure getting trapped causing the wastegate to stay open in between shifts or re-accelerating immediately after letting off."

In other words, if you put that bleeder whole on the boost source side of the mbc then you would have a huge boost leak and the mbc would be on backwards. Hope that clears it up. :thumb:

And like everybody else said, you are suppose to either close the boost controller or take it off during a boost leak test. That's why it is leaking only when it is not closed all the way.
 
philly3384 said:
WHen its all the way closed it is fine and doesnt leak when its opened why does it leak out so much i think its supposed to do that but , under a load it seems like a lot.
You need to clear up some of the questions asked here, I'm having hard time understanding you. Are you performing a leak test?

BTW Do not tap your BOV line for your mbc.
 
This is during a boost leak test sorry guys. Like if the hole was point at my face it would be able to blow my hair back LOL during 20psi boost leak test once reached 20psi. Something doesnt seem right with that. Maybe i have it on backwards like they said. Instead of taking the boost controller off for the test why not just put ## finger over the hole.
 
philly3384 said:
This is during a boost leak test sorry guys. Like if the hole was point at my face it would be able to blow my hair back LOL during 20psi boost leak test once reached 20psi. Something doesnt seem right with that. Maybe i have it on backwards like they said. Instead of taking the boost controller off for the test why not just put ## finger over the hole.
Like ChvyKc already said, the bleeder hole is suppose to be there, it's an important part of what makes a ball and spring type mbc work as well as the number one reason why you shouldn't tap your BOV for the MBC, step one in boost leak testing is to disconnect or turn the mbc all the way up.
 
oldman said:
turn the mbc all the way up.

Just turn it all the way up like he said. It worked like a charm for me. There will be enough air coming out of that little hole in the mbc to push a lot of air out of it if you have the mbc on there wrong. That is the exact reason why I asked if the hole was suppose to be there. If it is still doing that when the boost controller is turned all the way up then you have the mbc on there backwards. Just turn it around and run the test again and it shouldn't leak.

Just remember to turn it back down after you get done doing the test. I got out on the road afterwards and ended up building 26+ pounds. Glad that I saw it on the first pull and got out of it. 26 pounds on the stock smic is not a good thing. :nono:
 
Not. used the nipple that comes from the turbo (t-25) or the one from the turbo compressor outlet elbow. (16G-14B). The closser to the turbo seems to be a good spot.

If you don't find it you can always weld a little nipple on the pipe. (or use JB-Weld).

BTW update your profile. what car do you drive???
 
philly3384 said:
So using the pcv valve as a source instead of the BOV is better?
Where did this pcv valve thing come from? Take your pressure source from the compressor housing/J-pipe/licp.
 
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