gst burns oil. diagnose, options???

[gstnate]

So after realizing the car was super low on oil When I bought it I figured it had to be going somewhere and since it doesn't leak I figured it Burns it.

So after a while I started noticing smoke coming from my car when I was driving. Now this only happens when the car is at running temp and its been sitting at idle for a bit. Like at a light. Once I start driving it blows the smoke out. And doesn't do it again til I sit for a bit.

Maybe a leaky valve guide or seal?

So my options? Try and fix it on the car? Look for a new head?

Is there a common reason these leak oil? Or am I just lucky

Thanks guys!!!!

Read up a bit, seems like valve seals.

So the question is can I replace those with the head on the car?

 

[speedracer18t]

you can, you will have to either do the compressed air method or string method. If you get a fitting to match the threads of your spark plug, you can use a compressor to "pressurize" the cylinder keeping the valves up., string does the same thing. The basic goal is to not set the valve drop. The smart thing would be to only work on valves when the motor is TDC

 

[coryd21]

Ok, your guess is most likely correct. That is what I would say that it is, but the only way to know is to do a cylinder leak down test to see where the oil is getting into the cylinders at.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html

This link will tell you how to do it, in case you don't know how. Do this test and let us know what your results are.

 

[Angmah]

I'm no car guru, but I think you need to identify the location where the smoke is coming from. You said it is noticeable after a warmed up idle. Well, take a little trip and pull over at a safe location to check under the hood. I've never seen a mild smoke at idle for a blown head gasket. Now, considering the valve stems as the source of the problem is most probable. What I'm trying to get at is you should locate the leak which in turn will help you illiminate all the guess work. Once you do that, figure out if it's even worth fixing. Determine this by testing how fast or slow it burns oil. Is this your daily driver or project car that you can have sit around for a while? I know I just made it more complicated. But I look forward to see what you say as far as the location of the smoke.

 

[coryd21]

I think you need to identify the location where the smoke is coming from.

Doing the cylinder leak down test will tell you exactly where the oil is getting into the cylinders.

 

[Kod]

Just a little info, if you do have a bad head thats leaking and can't afford to replace fast just get K Seal, stuff works great and doesn't mess anything up, used it 5 times and then replaced the gasket.

 

[MichaelSuch]

You are most likely correct. The valve seals tend to dry up an crack. They can be replaced with the head on the car. You will need to take the timing belt and cams out. Then you will have to pull the valve springs/retainers which requires a special tool.

GA317, Remover/Installer, Metric Valve Keeper

That's the tool that you can use. Its very easy to do. But you will also need to keep the valves from dropping down in the cylinders once the retainer is removed. I used an aircompressor and a fitting that went into my sparkplug hole. The air kept the valve up while the retainer was off. Some people shove ropes down the spark plug hole but I have seen people bent valves that way if the cylinder is not full of rope. The valve drops down slightly and the rope tends to get wrapped around the valve.

Valvespring compressors

That will explain it a little better. But I would really recommend the snap on tool instead of the tool they use in the VFAQ. It will make things much easier and faster since you won't have to spend time threading the tool in different locations every time you need to remove the valve retainers.

If you do decide to replace the valve seals I would do a timing job at the same time and replace the timing belt, tensioner, pulleys, and water pump. I would even consider upgrading the valve springs and retainers for a little more performance or atleast make sure you stock springs are in spec still, most of the stock springs I have had measured were no longer in spec and valve float really kills power.

 

[gstnate]

Awesome info guys thanks.

How hard is it to do a head swap on these cars? I may just rebuild a head and go that way. Is there a certain head to look for? Or just another 2g head?

Thanks!

 

[MichaelSuch]

1g head do have larger ports, but with the smaller 2g ports you will have more velocity. There are plenty of guys making huge power with 2g heads. But swapping them is not too hard. If you do swap be sure to put in ARP head studs. This should pretty much sum it up

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/185236-head-removal-mini-engine-rebuild.html

It will probably take about 2-3 hours to pull.