Greddy Type S Leaking pretty bad

[98spydert]

Anyone have problems with their Greddy Type S leaking?

I've been doing boost leak tests like crazy now that I got a good size compresser for x-mas and my bov leaks no matter what. Doesn't leak if there's just pressure going to the top nipple. If there's pressure going to just the lower nipple, the valve pops open at 8 psi but that's expected so no problem there. If pressure is going to both, air leaks out of the outlet (or whatever you want to call it). It's coming from the bottom nipple/section. I took it all apart and RTVed it and it stopped almost all of the leak but it still leaks significantly. Now I can't get it apart again to re-RTV it. That shit freakin welded it together and I'm afraid of breaking it trying to pry it apart.

Maybe I'll just try the Type RS...

 

[b17tuner]

Blah. I guess I might be better keeping my 1g bov? Someone help this good guy^^

 

[DSMJim]

Anyone have problems with their Greddy Type S leaking?

I've been doing boost leak tests like crazy now that I got a good size compresser for x-mas and my bov leaks no matter what. Doesn't leak if there's just pressure going to the top nipple. If there's pressure going to just the lower nipple, the valve pops open at 8 psi but that's expected so no problem there. If pressure is going to both, air leaks out of the outlet (or whatever you want to call it). It's coming from the bottom nipple/section. I took it all apart and RTVed it and it stopped almost all of the leak but it still leaks significantly. Now I can't get it apart again to re-RTV it. That shit freakin welded it together and I'm afraid of breaking it trying to pry it apart.

Maybe I'll just try the Type RS...

Bingo.... You are ONLY to have the top nipple hooked up. The bottom is only a source to allow the pressure on the other side of the diaphram to move in or out as the vaccum or pressure is changed on the top of the diaphram.

As you boost the car this pushes on the top of the valve to keep it shut, so the other side of the diaphram would have to push air out. When vac is applied and the valve is opened it will draw air in the bottom of the valve. This is to be left open at atmosheric pressure so this can happen. When you hook it upto a pressure source then you have the same pressure on the top of the valve as you do the bottom so the only thing holding it shut is the spring which is why it's opening at 8psi.

It's boost pressure that holds the valve closed from the top not the spring. Hope that helps you out.

 

[EVIL X]

if it CONTINUES to leak, take the top part of the bov apart and check the rubber diaphram, look closely and make sure there isnt any cracks in the rubber. My type S started leaking out of that seal, and i had to order a new one from greddy.

 

[tighty]

Just try unhooking the bottom vaccum line. I have read that they leak unless you seal the bottom part with O-rings, and then you can only boost around 13 PSI I believe it was. I have tested this myself on my Type-S, and someone in another post did as well on here when I told them and got the same results.

 

[whitetiger777]

Hummm interesting. Someone once told me that if you run a line from the little nipple on the turbo up to the lower nipple on the type-s it helps eliminate compressor surge. Were they wrong?

 

[WSU99GSX]

I had my lower nipple hooked up and ran into the same thing, unhooked it, and it holds boost like a champ. If you look at the type-rs there is a hole right where the nipple is on the type-s, it would seem Greddy wants that area to be open and in the RS got smart and didn't put a nipple there so there would be no questions.

 

[98spydert]

Well that sucks, I always thought the lower source was for pressure before the throttle body to push up on the diaphram for a faster action. It works 10x faster with it set up that way but the leak isn't worth it I'll have to spend my afternoon finding that sweet spot with just the upper nipple source from the manifold.

Thanks for the input folks.

 

[Stock]

I have a Type-S, and everything I've ever heard/read indicates that the lower nipple IS for a boost source, so the BOV will activate better/quicker at lower boosts.

Here's an excerpt from a site that I just Googled:

"The smaller nipple on the cast aluminum body of the BOV may be spliced into the turbo outlet pipe or into the line between the turbo and wastgate actuator. Use the T-connector supplied. This connects to pressure even when the other line has vacuum. This will activate the BOV faster by applying pressure under the valve seat.

The smaller nipple may also be left unconnected. The BOV will operate slower and more quietly."

 

[98spydert]

That's what I've read too and why I had it connected as such. It does opperate way smoother, faster, and louder but I'd rather have no leak... too bad.


If I remember correctly, there's even something in the instructionsthat come with it that say "hook up the lower nipple if your applications calls for it" but it doesn't go in depth.

 

[tighty]

I have a Type-S, and everything I've ever heard/read indicates that the lower nipple IS for a boost source, so the BOV will activate better/quicker at lower boosts.

Here's an excerpt from a site that I just Googled:

"The smaller nipple on the cast aluminum body of the BOV may be spliced into the turbo outlet pipe or into the line between the turbo and wastgate actuator. Use the T-connector supplied. This connects to pressure even when the other line has vacuum. This will activate the BOV faster by applying pressure under the valve seat.

The smaller nipple may also be left unconnected. The BOV will operate slower and more quietly."

Do a boost leak test and when your done you won't care about that stupid lower nipple being connected anymore...hehe.

 

[98spydert]

Ok so I tried the single spring mod (remove the smaller of the two springs, only top nipple hooked up) for shits and giggles and it was horrible. The valve wouldn't stay closed at idle unless the screw was tightened down a turn or two away from all of the way down and when it did stay closed, I took it for a drive and there was compressor surge like crazy! I don't recommend even trying that crap...

Then I put both springs in, hooked up just the top nipple and had to leave the screw almost all the way unscrewed to get rid of the compressor surge during light driving. So it works ok, but I'm afraid the valve is staying open too long and once vaccum hits the pipes, it's sucking in unfiltered air. It'd be nice to have a filter there like the blitz does even though it's ugly I'd tighten down the spring to get it to shut faster after it opens but that would induce compressor surge... both are horrible!

 

[Syndicate13]

Ok so I tried the single spring mod (remove the smaller of the two springs, only top nipple hooked up) for shits and giggles and it was horrible. The valve wouldn't stay closed at idle unless the screw was tightened down a turn or two away from all of the way down and when it did stay closed, I took it for a drive and there was compressor surge like crazy! I don't recommend even trying that crap...

Then I put both springs in, hooked up just the top nipple and had to leave the screw almost all the way unscrewed to get rid of the compressor surge during light driving. So it works ok, but I'm afraid the valve is staying open too long and once vaccum hits the pipes, it's sucking in unfiltered air. It'd be nice to have a filter there like the blitz does even though it's ugly I'd tighten down the spring to get it to shut faster after it opens but that would induce compressor surge... both are horrible!

You could recirculate and not have to worry about drawing in unfiltered air.

 

[98spydert]

You could recirculate and not have to worry about drawing in unfiltered air.

Nah, don't feel like modifying my intake or buying a new one. I'd rather change BOVs

 

[DSMJim]

Hook up the top to a vac source that is uninterrupted from the manifold, leave the bottom open. Thats it. Forget trying to make it open faster blah blah blah. Just hook it up properly and forget trying to mess with it. It's a BOV and it will open fast enough so who cares.

 

[DSMRevolution]

When I got my Type-S I took quite a bit of time messing with its settings trying to get it set correctly. I was getting compressor surge constantly no matter how tight or how lose I set it. Later in the day I hooked up the lower nipple to the compressor outlet and my Type-S became more adjustable. Now I can actually notice a difference by tightning and loosening the upper screw adjustment. I finally hit a spot while adjusting it that it released smooth and sudden without surge (if that makes sense). I have to go outside and loosen it slightly though again because of the colder weather I am starting to see a bit more surge on light boost pressure.

So from my expierence, hooking up the lower nipple to the compressor outlet (j-pipe nipple) works better for me. Even though my 1g BOV leaked very slightly at 17psi I still think it would have been worth using considering how much time I spent getting this BOV tuned correctly. Also in my case I had to take apart all of the screw fittings on the Type-S and seal them with teflon tape (pretty good size leaks).

Hope that helps at all

 

[98spydert]

Hook up the top to a vac source that is uninterrupted from the manifold, leave the bottom open. Thats it. Forget trying to make it open faster blah blah blah. Just hook it up properly and forget trying to mess with it. It's a BOV and it will open fast enough so who cares.

I wish it were that easy. I guess I should have said opened easier rather than faster. But compressor surge is almost always preasent with just the top hooked up to an uninterrupted manifold source. I adjusted and adjusted and adjusted and the compressor surge is almost gone.

DSMRevolution - Do a boost leak test wth both nipples connected and see if you get the same leaks I did. That'll change your mind about it

 

[whitegst97]

I had a general question about leaking, and leak tests with the bov's. I searched and ended up in this thread. Is the bov suppose to leak, from the actual return tube when performing a leak test, my greddy type S leaks at 10 psi or so, and two other 2G stocks also leak like at 5. I pressurize the system and i leave the nipple connected on the 2G stock and the top nipple on the greddy. At around 5 psi they start to leak. Is this suppose to happen? Thanks


What the car does is, when it goes under boost at around 5 psi it starts to flutter and backfire, poping from exhaust.

 

[98spydert]

Noooooooo that's not supposed to happen. That's why I started this thread

Is your lower nipple hooked up? If so, that's the problem. If not, how's your screw adjusted?

 

[98spydert]

TWO MORE LEAKS!!! This BOV is just killing me. I teflon taped the nipple up top and that's one down. RTVed the main gasket and just waiting for it to dry... hopefully that will be the end of my type S problems...

 

[whitegst97]

No the lower nipple isn't connected. The other two, the 2G bov's also leak, the bov is suppose to stay completely closed right when doing boost leak? Thanks

 

[98spydert]

No the lower nipple isn't connected. The other two, the 2G bov's also leak, the bov is suppose to stay completely closed right when doing boost leak? Thanks

Yes, it should. It won't stay closed if the top nipple isn't pressurized along with the UICP though because, as DSMJim stated, that's what keeps the valve closed, not the spring. If it's not staying closed, take the top of the BOV off and check for a small tear in the diaphram membrain.

 

[DSMJim]

I wish it were that easy. I guess I should have said opened easier rather than faster. But compressor surge is almost always preasent with just the top hooked up to an uninterrupted manifold source. I adjusted and adjusted and adjusted and the compressor surge is almost gone.

DSMRevolution - Do a boost leak test wth both nipples connected and see if you get the same leaks I did. That'll change your mind about it

Do you hear the surge sound for a split second before the valve opens? Mine does exactly the same thing. I have put 15k miles on the car at anywhere from 15-25psi in those conditions and my turbo is just fine.

Stop worrying about what doesn't really matter. It's not gonna hurt your turbo yeesh. Greddy makes turbo kits for cars that don't even come with a blow off valve (miata) and guys run them with crazy compressor surge all the time and the turbo's last 3-4 years with 50-60k miles on them and they are only a 270deg thrust not even 360deg race like most T3/T4. Your worrying about a non issue. Just hook up the top line and forget about it like I said 2 posts ago.

 

[98spydert]

Do you hear the surge sound for a split second before the valve opens? Mine does exactly the same thing. I have put 15k miles on the car at anywhere from 15-25psi in those conditions and my turbo is just fine.

Stop worrying about what doesn't really matter. It's not gonna hurt your turbo yeesh. Greddy makes turbo kits for cars that don't even come with a blow off valve (miata) and guys run them with crazy compressor surge all the time and the turbo's last 3-4 years with 50-60k miles on them and they are only a 270deg thrust not even 360deg race like most T3/T4. Your worrying about a non issue. Just hook up the top line and forget about it like I said 2 posts ago.

It was more than a non issue. It wasn't just a "skip" or two before it opened that bothered me, otherwise I would have ignored it. Regardless, it's fixed now and all my leaks are fixed.

I had another question because you said "uninterupted" source from the manifold. Most people recommend running the mbc source from the bov line. Is this a bad idea? Is there a better source? I was running it off of the lower IC pipe but I would get wierd results like couldn't boost past about 14psi in lower rpms then it would spike to 22 or more no matter how I adjusted it. Switched back the BOV line and I was fine. I've got two nipples unused on my 1G throttle body (A1 and E), could I use either of those for the boost controller?

 

[Lord Khan]

This is a debate that has been going on, on this forum for a couple of years now. I have run my Type-S lower nipple hooked up, and unhooked up to that one nipple off of the turbo, and although I've never done any boost leaks, the car stays on whatever boost I set it for, and I have NO preassure surge issues with my turbo. As been stated, the bov opens easier, and is more adjustable. I think it really depends on peoples mods, and how much boost someone is running as far as how this bov reacts.

With the bottom nipple connected, the Type-S sounds like it is blowing off smoothly the way a bov is supposed to do, with not connected, there are just too many issues with the valvle not opening properly, or blowing off the way it is supposed to. At least on my car anyway. I run my car daily on 15-17 PSI with an FP BigT28 and I don't have noticeable boost leaks. The car runs strong, and hard, even when gunning it on the highway at 17PSI, and the bov sounds healthy, and I don't have too much annoying back compressor sounds.

Also be aware that all those noises the Type-S makes that may sound like compressor surge, may just be the valve flutterring, and not necessarily compressor surge.