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Great i think my car crankwalked

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RGdsmNewb

15+ Year Contributor
223
0
Feb 19, 2006
Edmonton,
well after fixing the tcase and the belts now i think ive got crankwalk . Wahooo. My clutch pedal is sticky , gear engagement is sometimes rough, yesterday i turned left ( the clutch never sticked ) but it was super hard to get into gear afterwards, there's a ticking sound while i drive, and when im on flat ground and let out the clutch my car moves forward. Can someone please tell me this isnt crank walk :cry:
 
Check the crank pulley for movement, that does sound liek a case of crankwalk...

:(
 
Everything is crankwalk these days. The first 2 things co-inside with each other. Obviously if you have no clutch pressure its going to be hard to get into gear. This could easily be caused due to low fluid or even just air pockets. Maybe your slave cylinder is going out, mine did, fixed it and its all good. As far as you letting out your clutch and it moving, thats what its suppose to do. A friend of mine has had 3 hondas, a GSX, a truck, and they all do the same thing. He has a long ass gravel driveway. Everyday he goes up and down and all he does is let the clutch out in 1st gear and let it simply pull itself along. It should stay about 500RPM above idle RPM. As far as the ticking sound, its a damn 4 cylinder that im sure you have reved well past 7000 a bunch of times. Its gonna tick, just like every honda ever made. Plus its 10 yrs old

People worry so much about crank walk. It only happen in like 7 or 8% of the 2g cars. Thats only like 7 or 8 out of 100, its not THAT common.
 
i would actually look into your clutch before getting freaked out about needing a new motor. crankwalk is not as common as many people think. if you have bad crankwalk and you turn left super hard with the clutch pushed in the car will die. i have had issues that many people said to me its crankwalk, sell it before it goes out on you. the first time ended up being the clutch. the second time my crank sensor just went bad. i'm not saying it isn't crankwalk, i'm just saying don't freak out about it until you actually check the freeplay at the crank.
 
and the ticking could just be your lifters. you have to decide where its coming from before making that judgement though. if it is your lifters, it really isn't a big deal that will hurt anything. if it bothers you like it did me, just stick some 3g lifters in there and it will be nice and quiet.
 
I wasn't saying it is crankwalk, I was saying if he had a lot of pulley movement it probably is... :thumb: WTF
 
Well when you have a Turbo DSM you tend to talk to alot of others with Turbo DSM's also. Crankwalk is not that common, ive talked to 100's of ppl that have them and only 2 have ever said anything about having it. 1 didnt even have it, he was just so afraid of it he did a motor swap to a 6bolt to be safe. If i was worried about anything, i would worry about my tranny b4 i ever worried about crankwalk, and mine is just a FWD.
 
20PSI hit it on the head, everyone on here is so quick to diagnose crankwalk instead of ruleing out all the other small posibilities. Get everything else that It could be taken care of first. Check you slave cylinder and fluid. Thats what it sounds like to me.


*20 psi please use proper spelling. :)
 
RGdsmNewb if you say that your clutch sticks sometimes and when it sticks its hard to get into gear im 99% sure its your slave cylinder. When it sticks all it is doing is leaking out the fluid and/or bypassing it. Mine did the same thing, it would stick, i would pull it back up and pump it a few times to build pressure and it was good to go until it leaked again. Trust me, a slave cylinder is only 30 dollars and it takes "me" about 15 minutes to change (counting jaking up the car with the spare tire jack). Its not much of a hassle so changing it to be sure is not a big deal. I would rather waste 30 dollars on something oppose to a whole new motor (who knows how much you could spend on that)
 
if you look at your slave cylinder there should be absolutely no fluid/oil on it. check under the rubber boot also. if you don't see you have a leak at the slave cylinder you can check your fluid level also. if it's low, you most likely have a leak somewhere. if your slave cylinder is bad you may want to look into rebuilding your master cylinder too. its a little harder to get on and off the car than the slave cylinder but its not that bad. plus its good insurance against it ruining your clutch or causing these types of problems again.
 
brute said:
I think he means the capitalization of "I" (or lack thereof), the numbers "1 didn't even have it," and the "b4" statement. Other than that, you're doing good
Thanks for clearing that up LOL

Yes if you replace the slave cylinder its a good idea to go ahead and change the master as well. More then likely if they are both still factory then the master will go out shortly afterwards. You buy a new slave cylinder and all that added pressure puts stress on the master. Its same if it were to happen the other way around. It just puts to much stress on the other because a new part has alot more pressure then something that has a little ware on it.
 
Yes the capitalaztion of "I" and the "b4". Other then that it was a good informational post. :thumb:
 
Great thank you so much for all the replies , very informative. I've been worried about crank walk since i got my car which is like 15 thousand miles ago.... Just to let you guys know the car has 144K Km's on it so like 100K miles or so i think. I hope its my slave cylinder, can i check this myself ? I'm failry new to the home mechanic thing, but i have the haynes manual and most likely there is something here on a faq. The thing that is weird to me is that sometimes my car will drive perfectly fine and feel mint... like when first start driving sometimes it'll either drive perfect or really crappy. It's like an inconsistent problem
 
well.. ive been a victim of CW... my 2g 96 GST after i rebuilt my head i started to hear a ticking sound when i drove but it was only when i was passing a wall or another car when the windows were down... then few hunderd miles more.. i could hear it with the windows up.. then a few hundred more.. i could hear it over the radio on low vol. then i could hear it real loud.. then my clutch started to stick.. when the car was idling you could hear a ticking sound.. it sounded like a rod was lose and wanting to give.. BUT the car still drove fine. other then the clutch stickin from time to time.. so i parked the car.. dropped the bottem end.. checked the thrust bearing.. it was so worn down it looked as if it was about to snap in half..my crank was worn BAD... and i had a new CFDF clutch.. slave cylinder fork n ball...so i rebuilt the bottem end.. sold the car. bought my GSX other then my oil pan leakage.. ive been a happy AWD DSMer!
 
do it your self....

but there is alot that goes into.. all new vac lines.. new motor mounts. new tranny.. etc.. its not just a pull n replace kinda job. but the pay off is WELL worth it!
 
It does sound like crankwalk but if you just replaced the t-case you should first check the connections with that and the transmission and things.
 
Check your throwout bearing and If you have to I'd take it to a shop and have them look at the tranny to make sure none of the synchros are going out. Lets try everything else before jumping on the "Hi my car cranwalked" thread.
 
Well the ticking sound is usually the crank angle sensor when the crank starts to move, And usually it will break and the car wont run, So it gets fixed and all seems well and some people dont even know the crank is worn out. LOL.
 
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