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my car crankwalked!! what do i do now??

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2geclipse565

15+ Year Contributor
250
9
Dec 23, 2006
Menifee, California
Well i just got the news that there is play in my crank. Which is unfortunate because i have only had the car for a month they measured it at .10 i think it was and i dont really know how long it will drive before dieing out completley, thats not something i want to risk any way. But my question for all of you now is, Where do i go for a motor? what motor would anyone recomend? Sp far the only place iv seen that will sell me a motor is ebay, ar those motors trustworthy? Also I honestly have no idea wear to get this done at i have called my local mechanics NO ONE can get the motor for me but they all offerd to put it in. I live about an hour from RRE and have tried to contact them but no one has e-mailed me back i am pretty sure road race will do a motor swap but i dont know, again everything is still up in the air with me. Also unfortunatly i did only pay $4600 for the car so price is a determining factor if i am going to even keep the car or not. I LOVE THIS CAR but if i cant afford it theres nothing i can do. So if someone could give me a ball park estimate for this it would be helpful. So if any one could help me shed some light on this i would greatly apreciate it, Thanks
 
You can find 6bolt motors for pretty cheap now days. Go to VFAQ.com and I beleive in the engine section there is a thread about where to find used motors.

Actually here you go...

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/4g63motorsearch.htm

Honestly, if your not commited with that car then I would sell it. Its easy to make a FWD have a lot of horsepower, but not a fast track time.

Just my .02

-Kevin-
 
drive it untill it blows, then find a japanese engine importer, have them deliver motor to place thats going to install it and your done. Putting a 6-bolt in requires some thought so do a search on 6-bolt 2g swaps.
 
if your crank-walked, its time to get a leash :)

I assoume you mean it measured .010" not .1
Prodiving this is the case.. why not just replace the crank bearings?
 
if your crank-walked, its time to get a leash :)

I assoume you mean it measured .010" not .1
Providing this is the case.. why not just replace the crank bearings?

agreed. Also, some other things you may want to look at while the motor is out are the other maintenance things you need. Timing Belt stuff, water pump, oil pump, piston rings, etc..

LoL at Pro-diving!!!
 
There are a lot of places out here in california that sell used japanese engines for around $1200 to $1500, depending on where you call. Of course it is going to cost you a bit to get it shipped.
 
if your crank-walked, its time to get a leash :)

I assoume you mean it measured .010" not .1
Prodiving this is the case.. why not just replace the crank bearings?

Would replacing the bearings work just fine? I mean sure it could end up walking again later, but will it give you a good amount of time? I know any motor can walk, but would this keep it from happening for say 20,000-30,000 miles?

Most importantly, would just replacing the bearings be a safe thing to do if the motor was going to be run hard? and i mean HARD.
 
I dont like the idea of getting a used Japanese motor, you really have no idea how many miles are on the motor, how it was driven, or the maint scheduel on the motor. 12 - 1500 for a used motor. Do the 6bolt swap, build your bottom and and have a stronger new motor for only a few $100 more.
 
I just thought you were tryin to cheeply squeeze a little more life out of the car.
If your going to beat the crap out of it then your bringing on a early death.
Repeted abuse most certanly does not help a walking crank. If you want a car you
can run "HARD" then you should put your time/effor into building a motor that can take it.
( forged internals,6bolt,balanced,etc)
 
Im in the same boat as the original poster. Replacing the bearings would work, but which bearings do you replace them with? Clevite? or what?
 
yea i really didnt want to drop a japanese motor in it, because all the ones I have seen the milege is just a rough guess. Also just replacing the crank is not some thing i want to do because i do now plan on building the motor for performance, not even for a fast track time but just something i can learn to work on and tune is really all i want. i was guessing like 3 to 4 thousand but i was pretty off so i think i am going to start looking into the 6 bolt motor. So now my question if i were to get a 6 bolt what i also have to replace on the car? Example fly wheel, timing belt etc. Also what should be done to the motor since it will already be out, Like internal wise? And thanks you guys these post have been really helpful.
 
Just look around. Check out local car forums... I found a running rebuilt six bolt with approx. 50K on it for 350 bucks from a guy here on tuners. When I got it home I pulled the balance shafts, replaced all the timing components, and plopped the sucker in.

(well, theres a little more to a 6 bolt in a 2G, but it wasn't that hard)
Don't give up on the car yet man
Find a beater in the mean time.
 
There's alot of info of doing the 6bolt swap into 2gs but is putting a 6bolt in a 7bolt 1g any different or would the swap be just easier since you probably dont need to modify the motor mount in the 2gs?
 
if your crank-walked, its time to get a leash :)

I assoume you mean it measured .010" not .1
Prodiving this is the case.. why not just replace the crank bearings?

Also from reading Magnus's Theory of Crankwalk, have them inspect and clean (possibly replace) the oil squirters since they are already replacing the crank bearings and substantial portion of the work to get to the oilers is already done anyways. Probably no more than $30 in parts for new ones and bit more labor to do it. With a possibility of some extra peace of mind.

Oh and remove the Balance shaft and install a good elimination kit as well.
 
If your engine walked you must get a new or at least different block and crank. Once an engine walks the block is no good either. :beatentodeath:

Fill me in on a couple of questions, since I am rebuilding my crankwalked 7 bolt engine for my 95 GST.

What is the irreversible damage to the block ? I could not find any on mine

Why would a slightly worn endplay bearing ruin the crank? Of course, my case was not a complete engine failure. The crank is made of a much stronger material than the bearing. I am not saying this is impossible, just very unlikely.

Why is my motor being taken apart? I spun the rod bearings twice in 4 months( I changed the con bearings with the engine in the car the first time since I was in desparate need of transportion the following week). I discovered the excessive end play when the motor was dismantled.

I did not have any problems with clutch engagement.
I did not wear out my crank sensor.

How did I repair it? I sent out the crank to get the second and third rod bearing journal repaired( back to STD size, yes, I know a GREAT engine machinist), while polishing the crank. I called the mitsu dealer to get the proper main bearings (with the Vin of course)
and thats it.

I expect this engine to last several years, this was not just a "patch".

Maybe in some cases, the end play bearing actually breaks?

Although I am new to DSMs, I am certainly not new to engines, and I run a shop that specializes in Porsche, Mercedes, and BMW( I learned the hard way that german cars have a poor $$$ to performance ratio:toobad: )

How many people on this forum toss that term "crankwalk" around and dont have any real knowledge on it? Its been going on for decades. The old VW bugs "crankwalked" and that wasnt such a big issue in those days. So do V-8s... and for that matter, any car that is equipped with a manual transmission is a great candidate for crankwalk(Mitsus more than any car though)

[puts on flame suit]
 
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