Got motor back from machine shop!

[DeNoZZo]

Heres what I had done-
- Degrease Block
- Crack Check=ok
- Align Hone Main Bores
- Check size on bores and hone
- Deck Block .005
- Degrease Crankshaft
- Inspect and polish crankshaft
- Check rods and pistons
- Valve job
- R and R cams and cam train part
- Inspect parts, bleed lifters
- Surface Head .012
- Valve stem oil seals
- Surface Head .009

I'm pumped and ready to put this beast back together! I'm planning on topline seals, oil pump, and some other parts. Other than that it's a stock rebuild. I just want a solid motor to start modding. What bearings do you guys suggest? My friends dad has a lot of knowledge building motors and he suggested king bearings. I think he said bi-metal ones too. Just to assemble correctly. But don't hold me to that. After bearings, what is the next set of parts to order? Put yourself in my shoes. I have $300 to spend on this set of parts. What should I get?

Thanks for the help guys!

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[95eclipser]

looks good.. i would buy acl race bearings for main and rod and then have them coated... maperformance does this i think they run about 150$ or so..

 

[954TalonTsi]

Topline sells a complete kit for around that much. It includes all bearing, gaskets, and i think a new water pump. Thats what im running in my car, and i havent had a problem with anything from them. Good luck with your "new" longblock.

 

[sicktsi]

I would recommend oem bearings thats what i have in my build and its proven. I haven't had a single problem yet. as for seals etc like the headgasket i would recommend either a cometic or a mitsubishi mls head gasket. Oem parts for most seals. Whatever way you go good luck with your build.

 

[DSM_PWR]

....and then have them coated... maperformance does this i think they run about 150$ or so..

That is insanely priced the F out...

Go to TCC Powder and Ceramic Coating if your ever thinking of coating bearings...

I guarantee you wont be looking at $150

 

[paultheninja]

Good luck with the build. I would also just use oem bearings and spend your cash in another department.

 

[slow gst]

how much did all of that cost you

 

[AWD-TSI]

i've always used either topline or felpro gaskets, they always treated me right. For the bearings i go clevite or acl. but u cant go wrong wit oem....

 

[DeNoZZo]

how much did all of that cost you

Close to $800. Most of the money was in the head work. I handed him the head completely assembled and got it back completely re-assembled.

 

[Rob10_99]

$800 for that work is a pretty good deal, they didn't put new freeze plugs in though =/

 

[spooled_u_1st]

I would suggest using all of the following oem parts...

main bearings
rod bearings
timing belt
idler pulley
tensioner pulley
tensioner
oil pump/front cover

For the water pump use whatever you want. But definitely go oem with the important stuff.

 

[dsmcurse]

in my opinion gaskets and seals dont really matter as for brand, as long as they say made in JAPAN! theres alot a juck out there made in tiawan and stuff. really try hard to stay away from that. dont get a water pump that says made in mexico. if it says made in japan than its good. these engines were made and developed in japan. (yes i know the cars were assembled in illinios) do you think when they made this engine they outsorced parts from china? hell no! they have 8 year old children forced into labor. important parts should say made in japan. get japan seals and gaskets you cant go wrong

 

[96eclipzGsT]

Topline oil pumps suck. I built my motor with one. The oil pressure gauge was pegged out running it down the road, then the oil pump locked up all within 500 miles. I put a melling oil pump back on and have been driving it ever since.

 

[420a_turbo]

I would also suggest OEM for the following
-cam seal
-front/rear main
-head gasket(unles using cometic)
-T-belt
-Tensioner/tensioner pulleys(old ones probably good, but get new just in case)
-Bearings-all of them

I have run several water pumps from Napa, not sure where they are made but never ever had a problem. I would also suggest a high-flow oil pump. Get a good one, this part is really important. If for no other reason, its just a freakin pain in the ass to change!

I run OEM seals because they are just about as good as they get. Not saying there arent better ones on the market, but these are good parts for sure. No hit/miss going on there. And for the important stuff in a high-interference motor, I always want to be POSITIVE they are good parts.

Good luck on the build, plan on painting the Block?

On a side note I would set the timing with the motor out of the car. Its much easier to torque the tensioner down correctly with the motor out.

Then swap and go!

 

[MOTOR-RX]

I dont know hoe true it is but on a felpro webpage they claim to be better then OEm. Fix the OEM flaw, but i dont knoow if i believe it

 

[420a_turbo]

Use what you can trust when you need to trust something. Thats always been my moddo!

 

[DeNoZZo]

I would also suggest OEM for the following
-cam seal
-front/rear main
-head gasket(unles using cometic)
-T-belt
-Tensioner/tensioner pulleys(old ones probably good, but get new just in case)
-Bearings-all of them

I have run several water pumps from Napa, not sure where they are made but never ever had a problem. I would also suggest a high-flow oil pump. Get a good one, this part is really important. If for no other reason, its just a freakin pain in the ass to change!

I run OEM seals because they are just about as good as they get. Not saying there arent better ones on the market, but these are good parts for sure. No hit/miss going on there. And for the important stuff in a high-interference motor, I always want to be POSITIVE they are good parts.

Good luck on the build, plan on painting the Block?

On a side note I would set the timing with the motor out of the car. Its much easier to torque the tensioner down correctly with the motor out.

Then swap and go!

Yes I do, any tips?

 

[420a_turbo]

Yes I do, any tips?

Take your time and do it right. Cleaning the block is one of if not the most important part. You have to have a clean surface when starting or the paint will not apply correctly. You already got hot-tanked so you should be pretty close now. I would use an air hose to get all the loose dust off, and a white rag to find those little spots that didnt want to come off. When you do find some grease that needs attention use a rag and engine degreaser. Apply the degreaser to your rag, not the block, and work it from there. You can use a damp towel to clean the mess up, but try to avoid direct contact of water to block. It wont hurt anything, but it is hard to know for sure there is no water/moisture on all the little curves of the block. Much easier to confine it to a rag. If you miss any moisture/greaes it will create a weak spot in the finish, which eventually will cause issues with the paint.

Taping the ports/sealing surfaces(head/bedplate) is a small part of it.You really want to tape off anything thats threaded, most people will say Im wrong but from experience I learned that the hardened paint that holds up to high temp is an issue if it gets into the threads. Obviously you want to tape the front/rear main areas as well. I would paint the bedplate seperate from the block as sealing with anaerobic sealant is tough and sometimes requires seperating the assembly during trial and error to get it right. If you paint them together, you will notice blemishes between the block/bedplate when you take it back apart. Its just the way the paint dries over the gap between the two surfaces. You dont want to paint the bottom of the bedplate where it bolts to the oil pan or the sealing surface where it bolts to the block either. The contact of the gasket/pan can chip the paint(Doesnt always but can) and then it only has 1 place to go-in your oil. Plus you cant see it when assembled so why risk it. I use a sanding pencil to correct blemishes/runs. It will/can happen, and if you notice it you will probably want to fix it. It wont cause mechanical problems if you dont, Im just assuming you will want to fix it though.

Do some research on the brand paint/how you want to do it. Some people pay a ton for powder coating, but thats really over-rated. Good ceramic paint with a little patience and skill can do a great job. I would really suggest black paint too! If you wanted to use others thats fine, but realize it will become an eyesore when it starts getting dirty. You will be so proud of it you will want to clean it, and that sucks. Plus, the color will look different on the motor in the car, then it does on the motor on the stand. Maybe its lighting, maybe its all the other color around it, but it does look different.

I really think thats about it. I painted my Block/Bedplate before I assembled. It is a lot easier that way, and gives it a crisp look when done.

Good luck, and congrats on doing a build the right way. Its looking very nice, and you appear to be on the right track!!

-J

 

[BrandonDSM]

I would really suggest black paint too!

Black is a nice color and all, but it does make it harder to notice, if you have a small leak somewhere. Just from my personal experience. Its all up to you though, i would personally just stick with a silver or a color similar.

 

[420a_turbo]

Black is a nice color and all, but it does make it harder to notice, if you have a small leak somewhere. Just from my personal experience. Its all up to you though, i would personally just stick with a silver or a color similar.

Block comes black from the factory. The head is a silver color because its aluminum. And FWIW when finding a leak use dye and a blacklight. Its soooo much easier then any other method.

-J

 

[BrandonDSM]

True enough i suppose .

 

[Rob10_99]

I hope you take that block back to them to put in freeze plugs like I said earlier,

 

[DeNoZZo]

I hope you take that block back to them to put in freeze plugs like I said earlier,

I can't put them in? I thought they just popped in?

 

[Rob10_99]

If you have them yes, but they can be a pita.