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Got a 99 gsx what now

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blazin_teg

10+ Year Contributor
32
0
Jun 15, 2010
Columbus, Mississippi
I bought a 99 eclipse gsx. It has 151000 miles on it. What needs to be checked on this car with this amount of miles. I also noticed a slight clunk in the front end like loose tension rods. And there is an ever so slight hesitation at wot. Could be spark plugs maybe. Mainly I just need to know what general mantainance needs to be done like trans and transfer case fluid change stuff like that.
 
+1 on checking for recalls.

I have a '95 gst and it had a clunk in the front end. The ball joint eventually pulled out of the lower control arm as I was entering the freeway at 70 mph. I asked Mitsubishi about replacement parts and they told me there was still an open recall on it. They fixed everything including new control arms, cv joints and front tires.

Find out where that clunk is coming from asap.
 
Couple more thing I have been noticing. When I pull up after driving home with the windows up I hear what almost sounds like a dry bearing grinding. Almost just like a throw out bearing goin bad. But it makes this sound when the clutch is pushed in or let out. I turned my engine off cranked it back up and for about 15 seconds it goes away. Then that sound comes back. Thats the first thing. Second, When I crank the engine and turn it off. There is a kind of clacking sound. Like when your flywheel bolts are loose. Not bad but noticeable. Third. when I push the clutch in it stops before hitting the floor. I thought thats just how it was. Tonight I noticed it hits thast spot and then I can push it pretty hard and then it will go to the floor. I know I sound dumb but I do have pretty good car expirence. Started out with turbo hondas then moved to sr nissans ending with a rb20 s14. Now im on to mitsu. Just never really experienced anything like this. Sure hope its not the symptoms of crank walk.
 
The 99's are the least likely to crankwalk. They have a split thrust bearing design like the EVO has. Check the end play in the crank if you are worried about crankwalk. Look into adjusting and bleeding your clutch. I wouldn't sit there and let it idle and force the pedal to the ground. Something is out of adjustment.
 
Called mitsubishi today. They said my car has no recalls not even on the ball joints.

There might not be any open for your car. If I am not mistaken there is a couple threads on here pertaining to Mitsubishi's recalls expiring after so many years. Just check the ball joints (with that kind of mileage they might need replacing anyway).
 
Well today took a hard left goin bout 60. Really got into that corner. Put it in neutral and the clutch felt exactly the same as driving straight. So that's a good sign. Right

Boost leak test resulted in a bad leaking bov. So I tried capping both ports and it felt like it picked up about 40 hp. So new bov next
 
Got some more pics.
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traded even for a rb20 s14 kouki front conversion full suspension. Its got some miles on it though. 151000
 
Looks exactly like mine, Barcelona Red Pearl, no sunroof, I have cloth seats and no ABS, looks like you have ABS. Looks like it could use some TLC under the hood but it's clean for the most part, take care of it. Hummm thought in 99 all the turbo gage clusters where silver faced. I see you are concerned about all the noises, I tracked down all my misc noises and elimated them all I needs is a new harmonic balancer and all you hear is engine and exhaust. But maint. should be #1 like everyone said. Get that rust off of strut tower before it gets worst, next to battery.
 
I did a compression check while changing my plugs. Hot engine throttle pressed down, 163 160 155 161. Is that good?
 
That compression is ok, almost the same as my 97 gsx with 155000. I also have the same color exterior and interior as yours. Nice find. Definitely get rid of that bov. It looks like a stock 2g, get a 1g or something aftermarket that will hold more boost. The best thing you can do for your car is read, and read some more. There is plenty of information on this site to help you with whatever you want to do. Good Luck!!!
 
Your compression is pretty good. As for what to do with a DSM? Everything!:thumb:

Timing belt, all oils and fluids, plugs, wires, EGR, etc...As for recalls, you should have a lower control arm ball joint one. Mine came out too. Basically check it head to toe. The key to an awesome and long lasting DSM is fix problems early and perform all maintenance.

As for the BOV, get a 1G one or get an aftermarket one, but you'll need a different UICP.

Beautiful car bro, honestly. It's been a while since i've seen one that clean.
 
Just ordered contitech timing belt kit hydraulic autotensioner crank pulley oil pump seal cam seals balance shaft seal front crank seal water pump and all drive belts also got some plugs today and got ngk plug wires ordered and new fuel pump ordered. I'm gonna take it to a mechanic to get the timing belt stuff put on I just don't have the time. Ima tell him check out them sounds that sound like loose flywheel bolts when I crank and turn the engine off. And let him feel what the clutch is doing. And the dry bearing sound at idle. It's not the throw out bearing either. sounds the same when clutch is in or out. Maybe it's a bad timing belt bearing. And I got some maf cleaning spray to. I'll do that tomorow. Oh an I got a sti bov on it now that really brought the power back. And I seafoamed it today too.
 
Well I belive I got most of the studdering out. I changed the fuel filter last night. Got in there and even the outside of the filter had rust on it. When I FINALLY got the filter off it was just brown gas coming out. Looks like its never been changed. Drove down the road and it ran good. Now seems like the idle is off a little since I had the battery unplugged. Gonna chech for codes today. I have no cel but Also when I turn the key I dont see a cel test so prob bulb is burned out. And I see the cap is missing on that idle screw thing by the tb. Gonna see can I find one somewhere. BTW that is the hardest fuel filter change I have ever ran across. Also I saw some oil leaking looks like where the trans bolts up. Even saw a few drops coming ouit of the clutch fork on the trans. Must be a leaking rear main. Guess that clutch job will be coming a lil sooner.
 
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I have the same car, everything is the same. Very nice find and good luck with everything take more pictures so I can steal...I mean borrow your ideas.
 
Ok so I am still having random power loss, seems like at all rpms. It picks up then looses it. Put in new plugs, wires, and fuel filter. All of witch needed replacing and did get some improvments from. I posted a pic of my plugs, this is after about 200 miles with a few hard pulls. Gap was a little high. about 35 just regapped to 32. Can you guys tell me if it looks lean like fuel loss or rich like spark loss by looking at my plugs. Also im getting 4 codes 2 bank one 02 sensor heater circuit and 2 p1500. I dont know why it would show the exact same code 2 times. I got a denso oem o2 sensor on the way. As for the alternator all I have done is test running battery voltage its around 13.5
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Ok on 20k scale on d volt meter I got 14.75 ohms on coil pack 2 and 3 and 14.99 on 1 and 4. Did another compression check after seafoam yesterday and got 165 168 145 and 155. man that sucks that the front 2 dropped like that. Is 145 even decent.
 

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One of these guys is probably your clunking, most likely the curved arm is bad and balljoint is stretched, so It wont affect camber, just toe in and out, and will clunk when hitting little bumps, and but wont even make a noise when you hit like a speed bump.

Just start wiggling you control arms and inspect your upper ball joint, you'll find it.
 
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