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Going to embark on 6 bolt Swap

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hypergenesis

15+ Year Contributor
886
1
Oct 21, 2010
Tracy, California
So I might end up embarking on a 6bolt swap in my 2g due to the fact that my 7 bolt Crankwalked.

Now I found a complete rebuilt long block with everything other than a TB from a 1g. From my understanding on reading on RRE and Magnus's website all I would need is the connector harness and to trim the 2g motor mount to accomodate the water pump correct?

Now on Page 5

of

http://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/1gina2g.pdf

Will I need a 2g fuel rail if im using a Fuel Lab AFPR?

Will I need to redo all the sensors with the 2g sensors already on my car?

Also what else will I need to change to accomodate it unless im missing something if its a complete longblock. This includes flywheel and what not.

Also can I switch the cam signal using DSMLink?

I think it might be all for now question wise.


Thanks
Armin


Thanks for the help

Armin
 
Are you keeping the 7 bolt head or the 6 bolt thats on the longblock? Check out rre's writeup they have a full list

6 Bolt Motor Install Into a 2G Eclipse

Just got my 6 bolt swap done today! Awsome! I followed the rre writeup

Wow so just the RRE? I read the entire thing but for some reason I didn't feel like it was extensive as I like. How was the swap? And im going to move to the 1g head for now and build my 2g head to swap later. The longblock im getting has a stock rebuild on the head from 10k ago so I would rather run that than my 2g at 160k haha.
 
Will I need a 2g fuel rail if im using a Fuel Lab AFPR?

You can use either a 1g or a 2g fuel rail, but when you get the adaptors that bolt onto the rail to attach AN fittings to it, you must make sure you order the correct one for what generation fuel rail you put on the engine. A 1G might be better because they are about 1/4" to 3/8" shorter, and it makes for an easier attachment of an AN fitting.
 
A 1G might be better because they are about 1/4" to 3/8" shorter, and it makes for an easier attachment of an AN fitting.

The 1g's definitely do fit better with an AN fitting on the timing belt end. You may still have to grind on the upper timing belt cover a bit, but it's not nearly as bad as using a 2g rail. But make sure to get the 1g ('91-'94) and not a '90, as they've got the end cocked a weird way.
 
Yes, the 90 fuel rail will not even fit on a car with a 91+ throttle body. The tabs for the input are clocked and hit the TPS :thumb:
 
Yes, the 90 fuel rail will not even fit on a car with a 91+ throttle body. The tabs for the input are clocked and hit the TPS :thumb:

Oh and what does the guy with a bicycle know :p

Bring that you are using a full 6bolt, the timing side is going to go for that year motor (I just say 91). All sensors will be your 2g sensors since they plug into your harness. You'll want a 1g CAS that ties into the 2g harness to replace the cam and crank signals.

When go go with the 2g head, you'll need use your 2g water pipes and housing. Head will need the stud holes bored out. I want to say you use the 1g water pump still, but please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Oh and what does the guy with a bicycle know :p

Bring that you are using a full 6bolt, the timing side is going to go for that year motor (I just say 91). All sensors will be your 2g sensors since they plug into your harness. You'll want a 1g CAS that ties into the 2g harness to replace the cam and crank signals.

When go go with the 2g head, you'll need use your 2g water pipes and housing. Head will need the stud holes bored out. I want to say you use the 1g water pump still, but please correct me if I'm wrong.

The water pumps are different between 6 bolts and 7 bolts so you are correct. However you can use the 1g thermostat housing and water pipe on the 2g head if you want to ( i prefer to keep the 2g) there are mounting provisions for both.
 
Cars are too expensive to own anymore, so I got a bike. I'm lazy. I don't need to go anywhere.

If you put on a 2g head make sure the stud hole for oiling the head has plenty of room around it up to the point where the oil enters the head, or you will likely have problems right off the bat or at least in the future with pressure reaching the lash adjusters. For the water pump, you keep the 1g/6-bolt pump.
 
Oh and what does the guy with a bicycle know :p

Bring that you are using a full 6bolt, the timing side is going to go for that year motor (I just say 91). All sensors will be your 2g sensors since they plug into your harness. You'll want a 1g CAS that ties into the 2g harness to replace the cam and crank signals.

When go go with the 2g head, you'll need use your 2g water pipes and housing. Head will need the stud holes bored out. I want to say you use the 1g water pump still, but please correct me if I'm wrong.

So the engine will already come with the 1g CAS so all I would need is the RRE harness adaptor for 1g to 2g for the cam and crank signals and then all my other 2g sensors will just plug in normally to the block?

And from what I read the 2g head has a little more "Fat" I can bore out than the 1g head correct?

thanks
Armin
 
I have no idea. The way the 2g sensors work versus the 1g CAS confuses me because I've never messed with them. I only ever wanted to work on 1g cars. You won't want to bore more than necessary for the stud holes, but the only that supplies the oil you can widen a bit where the oil is being supplied.
 
Well like anyone else doing a swap i pulled info from any and every direction. Towards the end though i was leaning towards rre. They have 3 seperate wiring diagrams, tests showing how the cas works, complete list of parts, etc... The guys just seemed like they know what they are doing.
 
The rre write up is a bit confusing because it suggests to use the 7 bolt oil pump on a 6 bolt. That is where alot of people get confused.
 
The rre write up is a bit confusing because it suggests to use the 7 bolt oil pump on a 6 bolt. That is where alot of people get confused.

That's the old way of doing it, a Hundai cover will fit and has the 2g sensor mounts.

From the image I saw, all 3 wire diagrams are the same. I prefer the RRE harness just because it's a clean easy installation.

As for the oiling that was mentioned, it's BogusSVO oil mod #1 and #2 which would want to be performed.
 
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