fully built engine VERY tough to start. dsmlink logs attached

[Funfettie]

This thing is being a pain in the @ss

Fully built engine, and ran fine last year. I switched over to SD this winter and now it wont start. it has spark, fuel and even compression.

New NGK's are gaped to .024, im pretty sure SD was setup properly in dsmlink, wideband was freshly calibrated. For some reason, the o2 sensor is reading lean, and about a foot back, the LC1 is reading rich. The engine started for about 10 seconds last week, but it was VERY difficult to start. (as you can see in the log)

I have checked everything i can think of, but it just wont fire? maybe it too cold for E85 to start? (32-40 degrees.. damn WI.) Any help would be very greatly appreciated!

Datalog is attached.

 

[snowborder714]

Do you have the sensors wired directly to the ECU, are you using their SD cable, or something else? Just want to validate that the inputs are setup properly.

Do you have your plug wires properly swapped?

 

[russell3123]

What are you using for a map sensor? I had this same problem and it was a faulty map sensor.

 

[Funfettie]

Im using an omni-power 4 bar map sensor, and a GM ait. They are both hard wired in, so no ECM cable. both sensors seem to be reading fine in the logs. and yes the plug wires are in the correct order (2341)

Also, I tried to simulate the naroband from the LC1, but that didnt change anything. I heard itwouldnt even matter as the ecu doesnt really use the o2 sensor until it gits operating temp at 180*. just thought id throw that in there.

 

[renovatdkitchen]

Are your crank and cam angle sensors in the right position? I had a similar problem, turns out I installed my crank trigger plate in upside down.

 

[Funfettie]

its a full 6 bolt, so no crank sensor, but i have played with the CAS a little, but i cant get the engine to start to set base timing to 5*. Is there a way to set the CAS to a good point just to start the engine? then i can set it to 5* after?

I didnt check the CAS to see if its working properly, but the injectors seems to be firing fine, and it has good spark, so it should be good, right?

 

[bluehaze420a]

I read that when you do a 6 bolt swap you have to turn the cas 180 degrees from a 7 bolt. Some people don't do this and get no start.

 

[Arthris]

Did u line up the marks on the cas housing and the +part? Its doubt full that would affect it but check that. And when u put the case in center the adjustment portion in center.

 

[Funfettie]

I read that when you do a 6 bolt swap you have to turn the cas 180 degrees from a 7 bolt. Some people don't do this and get no start.

I have never heard of this, but ill give it a shot. What i dont understand is the car was running fine last year, all i did over the winter was switch from a gm maf to
SD, added a catch can setup, and powder coated the VC. i dont know why any of those would affect the no start..

Yes, the CAS is ligned up. the CAS wsa never removed over the winter, so its still the same as it was last year. (which, again, ran fine) Does anyone see anything wrong with the DSMlink datalogs? maybe I have something set up wrong or dialed in the wrong way?

 

[bluehaze420a]

I hate replying with things I'm not to sure about so sorry if anything I say is wrong but just trying to put other ideas out there. Did you just copy your files over to sd? Or did you go through them all over again with adjustments? I read some where that you cant put your previous settings straight over to sd that they need to be adjusted like your global and dead time. I cant read your log on my computer for some reason.

 

[Funfettie]

I used the stock VE table, nd i tried using the evo8 sample VE table. had more luck with the stock ve table. but no, i guess i wasnt sure i could copy over the old tune

 

[DSM1491]

Maybe vaccum leak? Have you done a boost leak test? Things like that can make your wideband read lean. Mine did fixed the leaks and wideband read perfect afterwards.

 

[Funfettie]

I did a boost leak test to 35lbs, no leaks :/ I dont know what else it could be? Can anyone setup a base tune for me by chance? stock VE tables, 1550cc's FIC's on E85. I though I had the fuel tab all squared away, but maybe not? Thanks!

 

[clipto]

Pm my1gdsm for great remote tunes at an affordable price and get your shit running like a champ, as long as everything mechanical is good I guarantee you won't be disappointed!

 

[Funfettie]

Im working with a remote tuner who is also a freelance supporter on this site, and He cant really get any further without having access to the car. and flying him out isnt really in my budget at the time. I Might try switching back to a MAF and see if that does anything to the car. If id does start on the old tune and maf, then i must have set something up wrong with the SD.

 

[Funfettie]

Still wont start. I have checked over everything posted here and it still wont kick.

 

[oneslowwdsm]

I thought the firing order was supposed to be 4123 for 6 bolt swaps? That's how mine is running now..

 

[snowborder714]

6 bolt swap has nothing to do with firing order. He has link and is using an EPROM ECU with a non-'95/'96 CAS, so he has to swap plug wires and check a box in the program.

 

[Funfettie]

^correct. So I dont believe its ignition, and fuel doesnt seem to be an issue, So im thinking it has to be something with timing. If the cam gears are off by a tooth, how much would it lower the compression? I feel like 125 across the board is kinda low for a new engine that has higher compression pistons than stock. I didnt time the cams at all (BC284's) so maybe thats causing the low compression numbers? or if the cams are off a tad, that might cause this, right?

Ill check the CAS again this week. Anyone have input on what the voltage tables should look like for the LC1 wideband?

 

[V8srslow]

Check firing order and can move crank or spin cam sensor when it's out and see what's firing when..

 

[Funfettie]

Anyone think the low compression would be the cause? Im thinking fuel washdown or improper cam timing. leakdown test will be done today.


EDIT:

Well, and

So while setting the cams to TDC while doing a leakdown test, I noticed the cam gears timing marks looked funny.. yea, they were off... tearing apart the timing track to re-time the engine the RIGHT way this time..