fuel vs. PSI

[exiletalon]

I am happy I have my fuel system installed and ready, I want to run as much PSI as I can safely on the street and 91 octane
190-rewired
650cc-FIC
SAFC-2/ tuned
ported 18G
Supra SMIC

I am afraid to turn it up to high, I know I can go pretty high, but I want to go as far as possible, but not to far- ( daily driver)- car is a 91' VR-4

 

[exiletalon]

experiance helpful

 

[dsm-onster]

660cc PTEs, Walbro 255 hp, MAFt, DSMLink, TD05H 18G, SMALL fmic, cam upgrade.

20 psi pump gas
30 psi pump gas w/ water injection (bled to 25-26 psi by redline)

That was for me... Only a logger can tell what will work for you. Up the boost in cautios fashion and use your logger.

 

[gurmanator]

what have you done to the engine internals...that will decide how far you can take it.

 

[ChvyKc]

FIC 550s, SAFC II, 255HP, supra SMIC and a ported/clipped 16G. I run 25 pounds leaking down to 22 by redline with water injection. This is all on a stock long block.

Your main concern is knock on the logger. I tune to get knock as low as possible because to much knock will eventually kill the head gasket, a piston or a rod.

 

[exiletalon]

I have stock internals, stock long block.- so can I run 19-20 PSI.

 

[ChvyKc]

I have stock internals, stock long block.- so can I run 19-20 PSI.

Yeah, you can easily run 19-20 pounds with no problems. Just make sure that the car has a decent tune on it. Even at those boost levels you can pop a motor.

 

[gurmanator]

you can but you wont have a daily driver very long.how many miles on the motor? If you dont blow the head gasket first then you more than likely will throw a rod and window the block.

 

[CanadianTSi]

you can but you wont have a daily driver very long.how many miles on the motor? If you dont blow the head gasket first then you more than likely will throw a rod and window the block.

Are you serious? The stock motor can handle anything the 18g can throw at it.

 

[Slo TSI]

93 oct, B16g, supra sidemount, pte680s, walboro190, safc, 20 pounds daily with no timing pull. (2g)

 

[dsm-onster]

Are you serious? The stock motor can handle anything the 18g can throw at it.

I agree wholeheartedly... I think the 18g offers more than the EVO3 6g. But still, I think that's not enough to have to upgrade rods/pistons. Even a stock 7-bolt. . . Further, upgrading to an 8 cm^2 exhaust housing or TD06H turbine wheel won't push you beyond the strength potential of a 7-bolt.

It seams, through reports, that a 7-bolt can handle the potential of a 50 trim daily.

 

[gurmanator]

Are you serious? The stock motor can handle anything the 18g can throw at it.

any motor can handle anything thrown at it but for how long is the question.we do not know what shape the motor is in to begin with before we start giving false info.

 

[dsm-onster]

Ideally it would be good to run a basic compression test before modifying.

Many, many, many people have gone to the edge w/ a 100K motor... The point is that the rods will not break at the peak of the level of an 18G. Nor will the crank, pistons, stock cast iron rings(in decent shape), stock oem bearings(in decent shape). What would let go? An already weak set of rings? that is not the fault of the 18G. . .

But, yes, the best thing to do is to diagnose the engine condition. THEN, modify. If the engine has even compression, w/ no bearing noise or no metal in the oil, new plugs, wires, airfilter, etc.; then he's good to go with what ever the 18G can handle...

I would look at a set of ARP head studs for insurance. But, it is not neccesary if he can be particularly patient in his tuning.

 

[gurmanator]

Ideally it would be good to run a basic compression test before modifying.

Many, many, many people have gone to the edge w/ a 100K motor... The point is that the rods will not break at the peak of the level of an 18G. Nor will the crank, pistons, stock cast iron rings(in decent shape), stock oem bearings(in decent shape). What would let go? An already weak set of rings? that is not the fault of the 18G. . .

But, yes, the best thing to do is to diagnose the engine condition. THEN, modify. If the engine has even compression, w/ no bearing noise or no metal in the oil, new plugs, wires, airfilter, etc.; then he's good to go with what ever the 18G can handle...

I would look at a set of ARP head studs for insurance. But, it is not neccesary if he can be particularly patient in his tuning.

well spoken...thank you.