fuel upgrade sanity check/questions

[kenamond]

Correct.
AN PLUMBING.COM Earls performance products Hose ends Hose,Adapter fittings
#9894
I see they said it has an internal O-ring. Check with them and see if you still need a crush washer. Mine did not have an O-ring in it.

From reading the SteveTek page and some Stealth/3000GT tech article, it looks like this Saginaw fitting is a "hack" that happens to work. Apparently, the fuel line is flared, and the pump fitting is inverse-flared. So in the stock situation, the flare and inverse flare meet to form the seal. The Earl's Saginaw fitting apparently will seal against the inverted flare if you tighten it enough. That makes me wonder how the o-ring fits into the picture. It also makes sense that teflon tape on the threads would be a good idea to protect against a leak. So I'm not sure how this is going to work. The o-ring you speak of (and is mentioned on the Earl's site) - is that like a copper plumbing connection where you have a brass crush washer (like a hollow brass sphere with a hole drilled through it)? Or is it a rubber o-ring? Copper crush washer? Something else? I really *don't* want a fuel leak under my kids' asses.

Would it be a worthy idea to just leave a section of stock high-pressure fuel line and connect an AN hose fitting to it? That way, I keep the stock connection.

Another option is to remove the stock tube from the pump cover and weld in a custom tube with the correct AN fitting on the end, but that means the car gets parked for a longer time so that I can do the fab/mod work and work out a time to have my welder-guy weld it.

I like the idea of how much a Supra TT pump can flow as well as how quiet it is, but form what I have read on the supraforums, they have a much higher AMP draw over a wally 255. Something about when they try and run a dual OEM pump setup (Good to about 1000WHP on a TT) they keep blowing 20A fuses. So some of them switched to dual 255's or dual HKS/Denso upgraded units, and the problem went away. Just something to think about.

I'm not too electrically knowledgeable. I've rewired the stock pump and have a 20A barrel fuse (car audio amp style fuse and holder). The power line is 10ga wire straight from the battery to the pump relay. Could I just put a 25A fuse in it or do I risk melting the 10ga wire's insulation? Will the Denso pump draw more current under a particular situation or is the risk of fuse-blowing there all of the time? If the draw increases with fuel flow, I may be okay, because I'm still on stock injectors. Do I risk dropping the electrical system voltage if the pump draws too much juice?

 

[kenamond]

if you are looking for an entire kit check these out

STM SENDING UNIT TO FUEL RAIL KIT | 90-99 DSM from tank to filter

STM FPR -6AN FUEL RETURN KIT - SHADOW SERIES | 90-99 DSM from filter to rail-rail to FPR to return

Hahah. I just noticed this post. Could've save me some time if I'd seen it at first.

 

[crimsondragon]

From reading the SteveTek page and some Stealth/3000GT tech article, it looks like this Saginaw fitting is a "hack" that happens to work. Apparently, the fuel line is flared, and the pump fitting is inverse-flared. So in the stock situation, the flare and inverse flare meet to form the seal. The Earl's Saginaw fitting apparently will seal against the inverted flare if you tighten it enough. That makes me wonder how the o-ring fits into the picture. It also makes sense that teflon tape on the threads would be a good idea to protect against a leak. So I'm not sure how this is going to work. The o-ring you speak of (and is mentioned on the Earl's site) - is that like a copper plumbing connection where you have a brass crush washer (like a hollow brass sphere with a hole drilled through it)? Or is it a rubber o-ring? Copper crush washer? Something else? I really *don't* want a fuel leak under my kids' asses.

Would it be a worthy idea to just leave a section of stock high-pressure fuel line and connect an AN hose fitting to it? That way, I keep the stock connection.

Another option is to remove the stock tube from the pump cover and weld in a custom tube with the correct AN fitting on the end, but that means the car gets parked for a longer time so that I can do the fab/mod work and work out a time to have my welder-guy weld it.



I'm not too electrically knowledgeable. I've rewired the stock pump and have a 20A barrel fuse (car audio amp style fuse and holder). The power line is 10ga wire straight from the battery to the pump relay. Could I just put a 25A fuse in it or do I risk melting the 10ga wire's insulation? Will the Denso pump draw more current under a particular situation or is the risk of fuse-blowing there all of the time? If the draw increases with fuel flow, I may be okay, because I'm still on stock injectors. Do I risk dropping the electrical system voltage if the pump draws too much juice?

I suggest you call them up about it. But personally when I think of O-rings, I think of rubber ones. I'm still not entirely sure. I have that same exact fitting too. It came with the Import Evolution kit to screw onto the pipe threads right before the filter. It also came with a copper washer. I wouldn't have someone weld in the AN fitting to the assembly. Reason is, AN is usually aluminum (though you can order it in steel as well) and I believe the assembly is brass (not sure though it does look like it). Two noncompatible metals. They'll have to join by brazing which will never be as soon as welding. Worst case scenario is it breaks off from vibration and fuel just spews out.

How did you manage to use only a 20A fuse and not blow it? When I rewired it, I used a 25A and it blew. I upped it up to a 30A afterwards.

 

[kenamond]

I suggest you call them up about it. But personally when I think of O-rings, I think of rubber ones. I'm still not entirely sure. I have that same exact fitting too. It came with the Import Evolution kit to screw onto the pipe threads right before the filter. It also came with a copper washer. I wouldn't have someone weld in the AN fitting to the assembly. Reason is, AN is usually aluminum (though you can order it in steel as well) and I believe the assembly is brass (not sure though it does look like it). Two noncompatible metals. They'll have to join by brazing which will never be as soon as welding. Worst case scenario is it breaks off from vibration and fuel just spews out.

How did you manage to use only a 20A fuse and not blow it? When I rewired it, I used a 25A and it blew. I upped it up to a 30A afterwards.

Actually, I think it was 30A now that you mention it. I started with a cheap Radio Shack fuse holder and had connection problems with it so I upgraded to a car audio gold-plated fuse holder and gold-plated barrel fuse.

I'll just order the Earl's saginaw fitting and see what I get. I may still consider cutting the stock line and using an AN hose fitting on the remaining stock line (pump end). But I don't know if the 6AN fitting that comes with the kit would work on the stock fuel line.

There's a tech article for making a dual in-tank wally setup, and they modified the tubing. I imagine there's some sort of AN-to-flare fitting that you could use. Then you just have to bend and flare a piece of steel and weld it into the pump cover hole. I'm not that ambitious, though. I'm hoping the Saginaw fitting "just works".