fuel upgrade sanity check/questions

[kenamond]

I'm planning on finally upgrading the fuel system on my 2gb, but I have a couple of questions and would like a sanity check on my game plan.

I'll be upgrading the pump, lines, filter, and FPR for now. That'll set the stage for injectors and DSMlink or AEM-EMS down the road.

First, I've heard about the Wally255s being loud. Is there an alternative in-tank or 2nd serial external pump that I should consider? I'm not thinking of dual, parallel pumps (in-tank or external) at the moment, but I'd like a lot of room to grow into the capacity of an in-tank 255hp (I'm only running a FP Big28 now, so a 255hp would be more than enough). I have no idea if a Bosch 044 external, in-line (serial with the stocker) pump would give more fuel or less than just replacing the stocker with an in-tank 255, but those are the types of options I'm looking for...all in the name of "quieter" without sacrificing fuel delivery capability.

So the plan is to do 6AN SS braided flex lines from the rail to the AFPR back to the tank first. Since this isn't high pressure, I don't know what I *need* for those lines, but I'll search. I can run that first until I pick a pump, but I can't do the pump before the AFPR. Here, I haven't decided on a Fuelabs AFPR kit (w/ gauge, rail outlet adapter, fittings, line) or the usual Aeromotive 1000 setup. I haven't heard a lot about the Fuelabs unit, but (don't laugh), I like/want the black/silver fittings, line, AFPR, and I like the 52mm guage. I can probably track down black anodized fittings, and I know Aeromotive has a black/silver AFPR, but the Fuelabs kit has all of it together for $208. Anyone with info about the superiority of one AFPR over the other is welcome. If the Aeromotive unit can handle more flow or is proven to be better (more accurate) at regulating fuel pressure, I'd like to know. The color preference is for consistency and my annoying perfectionist attitude.

I don't know much about fuel gauges, but the fact that the Fuelabs unit has a 52mm gauge begs the question of whether or not I can mount that in the cockpit in my A-pillar gauge pod. I don't want fuel in the cabin, so I don't know if that particular gauge has to stay under the hood or what has to be done to safely mount it in the cabin. If the gauge is reading air pressure somehow, maybe I just need to run it like a mechanical boost gauge, but if it's got fuel on the other side of the fitting, I don't know if there's a safe way to do this.

Next, I'll do the pump, high-pressure 6AN SS braided flex lines, and Mr Gasket 6AN fuel filter. I already rewired the stock pump. The stock filter is the original, and it's past-due to replace, but I'd rather upgrade it than replace it with stock and later upgrade (I've heard horror stories for getting the stock fittings loose and then getting them to re-seal).

I've heard of folks taking different routes for the fuel lines between the engine bay and the tank, but I'd like to follow the stock route. I've also heard of folks installing the lines by connecting them to the stock lines (implying that the stock lines would stay there). Is there any reason to *not* remove the old lines and install the new lines in their place? I figure the engineers did it that way for a reason, and I don't want to burn my car to the ground.

Finally, I have no idea how far I'll eventually push this car. It was my first new car (ordered in fall, '96), and I plan on keeping it forever. I'm hoping this fuel system would get me a long way, but I don't know how far. If anyone has a good gut feel, let me know. I realize that I'd have to upgrade turbo, IC, injectors, ECU, engine internals, etc.

To recap, what am I screwing up here? Also, what in-tank pump options do I have to keep the cabin quieter than with a Wally 255 without sacrificing fuel delivery? Any comments on AFPR options? What about running the new fuel lines where the old ones were? And what about in-cabin fuel pressure gauge?

Thanks!!

 

[1bad92awd]

Well all in all, the Walbro 255 really isnt too loud. Especially when you already have an aftermarket exhaust on your car. The Bosch should be comparable, but that is an external pump. So depending on your preferance I dont know quite which would be better.

The Fuel Labs kit is a nice kit. I also have some friends who use Aeromotive and they like theirs as well. The gauge usually will stay under the hood with most kits unless you buy an actual fuel pressure gauge to mount on the A-pillar.

The only trouble I can see with the overall plan is that if your not sure how far you will push this car, then you may end up spending more money over time upgrading parts you will have already upgraded.

 

[Xit40]

You could always get the Denso 280lph pump made for the Supra like this one. Just an example I'm sure you can find it cheaper somewhere that was just the first thing that came up in google. I've never had a Walbro pump so I can't speak to it's noisiness, but I have an upgraded Denso fuel pump and you never hear it. They also flow better at higher pressures and are very reliable.

Your AFPR choices are both good options and I would be comfortable using either of those in my car. The FuelLab one does seem like a great deal. I would hesitate to put the gauge inside the car though. I'm not positive, but I'm pretty sure there's fuel on the other side of the gauge. I subscribe to the KISS theory. Anything that can be done simply is probably best. Less things that can go wrong are always good.

 

[nicknorth11]

I can't answer many of your questions, but I'll tell you what I know (or have read). A stock supra pump is an in-tank pump that is, apparently, much quieter than a wally 255 and IIRC flows more.

Are you planning on using E85? If so, you may want to consider using -8AN for the feed line.

As for black fittings, stm has black/silver fittings that are for their (not actually theirs) black, nylon hose, which is an alternative to ss. (They sell a very nice kit on their site that you can cusomize if you want to). Here is a pic of what I'm referring to:

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Good luck

 

[kenamond]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I'm going to search for more info on the Denso install. I'd rather not have to buy an expensive install kit or have to modify existing hardware too excessively. I've read about the Walbro install, and I'm hoping the Denso would be comparable. Also, should I worry about overrunning the Fuelab AFPR with a Denso 290?

I'm also going to look around to see how to install dual fuel pressure gauges.

The problem with 8AN lines is that the Fuelab $208 offer is with 6AN fittings and lines. I'll go search Summit for the shadow series fittings and see what it adds up to, and I'll see if any vendor carries an 8AN Fuelab kit.

If I switch to 8AN lines, shouldn't that affect the filter, fuel rail adapters, and AFPR? Are those components intended for use with 6AN lines, and if so, should I look for "-8AN" versions? I don't want to buy extra adapters and patch together a Frankenstein 8AN/6AN hodge-podge.

Anyone wanna take a guess at how much whp a Denso 290 with 8AN lines could support?

 

[Xit40]

The VFAQ has a writeup on how to install the Denso here. It's pretty basic. Nothing to involved. I think they are installing the Supra pump as well.

Also if your interested RRE has the flow rates of various Denso pumps here. And it won't overrun the AFPR.

 

[jking29]

If you want to mount a fuel pressure gauge inside the car, you need a isolator kit such as this. Pegasus - Fuel Pressure Gauge Isolator Kit No chance of a fuel leak inside the car then, and it is required if you go to the track.

 

[kenamond]

The VFAQ has a writeup on how to install the Denso here. It's pretty basic. Nothing to involved. I think they are installing the Supra pump as well.

Also if your interested RRE has the flow rates of various Denso pumps here. And it won't overrun the AFPR.

Actually, that VFAQ article is what I'd already read. It was a while ago, and I misremembered that it was for a Walbro. Good to know. Thanks!

If you want to mount a fuel pressure gauge inside the car, you need a isolator kit such as this. Pegasus - Fuel Pressure Gauge Isolator Kit No chance of a fuel leak inside the car then, and it is required if you go to the track.

How about a sending unit and an electronic pressure gauge like for oil pressure? It would seem to me that it might be simpler and cheaper than this isolator kit...

Should I worry about -8AN lines on the return side, or would 6AN be okay there? That'd mean I can still use the Fuelab kit and just look for 8AN filter, lines, and fittings.

 

[1slo1g]

if you are looking for an entire kit check these out

STM SENDING UNIT TO FUEL RAIL KIT | 90-99 DSM from tank to filter

STM FPR -6AN FUEL RETURN KIT - SHADOW SERIES | 90-99 DSM from filter to rail-rail to FPR to return

 

[2gGSX]

I'm planning on finally upgrading the fuel system on my 2gb, but I have a couple of questions and would like a sanity check on my game plan.

I'll be upgrading the pump, lines, filter, and FPR for now. That'll set the stage for injectors and DSMlink or AEM-EMS down the road.

First, I've heard about the Wally255s being loud. Is there an alternative in-tank or 2nd serial external pump that I should consider? I'm not thinking of dual, parallel pumps (in-tank or external) at the moment, but I'd like a lot of room to grow into the capacity of an in-tank 255hp (I'm only running a FP Big28 now, so a 255hp would be more than enough). I have no idea if a Bosch 044 external, in-line (serial with the stocker) pump would give more fuel or less than just replacing the stocker with an in-tank 255, but those are the types of options I'm looking for...all in the name of "quieter" without sacrificing fuel delivery capability.

So the plan is to do 6AN SS braided flex lines from the rail to the AFPR back to the tank first. Since this isn't high pressure, I don't know what I *need* for those lines, but I'll search. I can run that first until I pick a pump, but I can't do the pump before the AFPR. Here, I haven't decided on a Fuelabs AFPR kit (w/ gauge, rail outlet adapter, fittings, line) or the usual Aeromotive 1000 setup. I haven't heard a lot about the Fuelabs unit, but (don't laugh), I like/want the black/silver fittings, line, AFPR, and I like the 52mm guage. I can probably track down black anodized fittings, and I know Aeromotive has a black/silver AFPR, but the Fuelabs kit has all of it together for $208. Anyone with info about the superiority of one AFPR over the other is welcome. If the Aeromotive unit can handle more flow or is proven to be better (more accurate) at regulating fuel pressure, I'd like to know. The color preference is for consistency and my annoying perfectionist attitude.

I don't know much about fuel gauges, but the fact that the Fuelabs unit has a 52mm gauge begs the question of whether or not I can mount that in the cockpit in my A-pillar gauge pod. I don't want fuel in the cabin, so I don't know if that particular gauge has to stay under the hood or what has to be done to safely mount it in the cabin. If the gauge is reading air pressure somehow, maybe I just need to run it like a mechanical boost gauge, but if it's got fuel on the other side of the fitting, I don't know if there's a safe way to do this.

Next, I'll do the pump, high-pressure 6AN SS braided flex lines, and Mr Gasket 6AN fuel filter. I already rewired the stock pump. The stock filter is the original, and it's past-due to replace, but I'd rather upgrade it than replace it with stock and later upgrade (I've heard horror stories for getting the stock fittings loose and then getting them to re-seal).

I've heard of folks taking different routes for the fuel lines between the engine bay and the tank, but I'd like to follow the stock route. I've also heard of folks installing the lines by connecting them to the stock lines (implying that the stock lines would stay there). Is there any reason to *not* remove the old lines and install the new lines in their place? I figure the engineers did it that way for a reason, and I don't want to burn my car to the ground.

Finally, I have no idea how far I'll eventually push this car. It was my first new car (ordered in fall, '96), and I plan on keeping it forever. I'm hoping this fuel system would get me a long way, but I don't know how far. If anyone has a good gut feel, let me know. I realize that I'd have to upgrade turbo, IC, injectors, ECU, engine internals, etc.

To recap, what am I screwing up here? Also, what in-tank pump options do I have to keep the cabin quieter than with a Wally 255 without sacrificing fuel delivery? Any comments on AFPR options? What about running the new fuel lines where the old ones were? And what about in-cabin fuel pressure gauge?

Thanks!!

Since cabin noise is a concern, I would eliminate the in-line pump setups. To be fair, the 255HP is really not that noisy (as others above have stated), and provides a pretty reasonable amount of flow (~3600cc/min at 73 psi total fuel pressure in my case).

Upgrading the lines for a 255HP also does not seem very necessary to me. The stock lines have more than proven themselves to be adequate for copious amounts of power, so, for the time being at least, I don't think you need to do it.

Most people settle for just the fuel pressure gauge off the AFPR, solely to be used for adjustment purposes.

 

[jking29]

How about a sending unit and an electronic pressure gauge like for oil pressure? It would seem to me that it might be simpler and cheaper than this isolator kit...

You could do that, but you might as well not run a gauge inside then. The electric gauges with a sender are slow to react.

 

[crimsondragon]

I'm planning on finally upgrading the fuel system on my 2gb, but I have a couple of questions and would like a sanity check on my game plan.

I'll be upgrading the pump, lines, filter, and FPR for now. That'll set the stage for injectors and DSMlink or AEM-EMS down the road.

First, I've heard about the Wally255s being loud. Is there an alternative in-tank or 2nd serial external pump that I should consider? I'm not thinking of dual, parallel pumps (in-tank or external) at the moment, but I'd like a lot of room to grow into the capacity of an in-tank 255hp (I'm only running a FP Big28 now, so a 255hp would be more than enough). I have no idea if a Bosch 044 external, in-line (serial with the stocker) pump would give more fuel or less than just replacing the stocker with an in-tank 255, but those are the types of options I'm looking for...all in the name of "quieter" without sacrificing fuel delivery capability.
The Supra pump is what you want then. As for noisiness, I can clearly hear my Walbro 255 outside my car with full exhaust. Inside, not as audible but if fuel tank is low, it will be. I say turn the music up. Also, if you change the voltage of the pump, you can run even more fuel. Typically, if you increase voltage by 50%, you increase flow by the same percentage. So depending on what you want, the Supra pump might just be what you need.
So the plan is to do 6AN SS braided flex lines from the rail to the AFPR back to the tank first. Since this isn't high pressure, I don't know what I *need* for those lines, but I'll search. I can run that first until I pick a pump, but I can't do the pump before the AFPR. Here, I haven't decided on a Fuelabs AFPR kit (w/ gauge, rail outlet adapter, fittings, line) or the usual Aeromotive 1000 setup. I haven't heard a lot about the Fuelabs unit, but (don't laugh), I like/want the black/silver fittings, line, AFPR, and I like the 52mm guage. I can probably track down black anodized fittings, and I know Aeromotive has a black/silver AFPR, but the Fuelabs kit has all of it together for $208. Anyone with info about the superiority of one AFPR over the other is welcome. If the Aeromotive unit can handle more flow or is proven to be better (more accurate) at regulating fuel pressure, I'd like to know. The color preference is for consistency and my annoying perfectionist attitude.
Depending on your goals, -6 should be enough unless you plan on running a GT40R. As for fuel pressure regulators, I personally run the Fuelab. Been running it since last summer. No problems at all. Mr. Gasket Shadow Series AN fittings is what you want. STM provided them in their kit. I run them. They work well. I daresay better than the blue/red ones from Summit. I had more problems with them than Mr. Gasket.
I don't know much about fuel gauges, but the fact that the Fuelabs unit has a 52mm gauge begs the question of whether or not I can mount that in the cockpit in my A-pillar gauge pod. I don't want fuel in the cabin, so I don't know if that particular gauge has to stay under the hood or what has to be done to safely mount it in the cabin. If the gauge is reading air pressure somehow, maybe I just need to run it like a mechanical boost gauge, but if it's got fuel on the other side of the fitting, I don't know if there's a safe way to do this.
Run an electric one and be done with it. However, you might want to get a separate line for the sender. It seems they are prone to malfunctioning from the vibrations just like most oil pressure senders. Something like this. Remote Oil Pressure Sender Kit [RPS1] - $40.00 : Jay Racing
I have it but I have yet to test it out if it'll fit in the AN adapter. As long as everything that sees fuel stays in the engine bay, you're safe. I run both a fuel gauge right off the AFPR to adjust the pressure for as well as an electronic one in the cabin to monitor any anomalies. If I suddenly lose pressure, perhaps I can save the motor by quickly letting off before it grenades.
Next, I'll do the pump, high-pressure 6AN SS braided flex lines, and Mr Gasket 6AN fuel filter. I already rewired the stock pump. The stock filter is the original, and it's past-due to replace, but I'd rather upgrade it than replace it with stock and later upgrade (I've heard horror stories for getting the stock fittings loose and then getting them to re-seal).
If you're going to up the lines, best thing to do is just rip the stock line out and forget about the fuel filter. I did. Read my tech article on replacing the fuel lines.
I've heard of folks taking different routes for the fuel lines between the engine bay and the tank, but I'd like to follow the stock route. I've also heard of folks installing the lines by connecting them to the stock lines (implying that the stock lines would stay there). Is there any reason to *not* remove the old lines and install the new lines in their place? I figure the engineers did it that way for a reason, and I don't want to burn my car to the ground.
I have -6 SS line from the fuel pump assembly all the way to the rail. No problems. The only reason I suspect they even used hard lines is to maintain pressure. Regular rubber lines deteriorate over age just like brake lines. The only reason I see them using the stock rubber lines from the filter to the rail is because they needed it to absorb vibrations. And I'm sure SS line is more expensive than regular hard tubing.
Finally, I have no idea how far I'll eventually push this car. It was my first new car (ordered in fall, '96), and I plan on keeping it forever. I'm hoping this fuel system would get me a long way, but I don't know how far. If anyone has a good gut feel, let me know. I realize that I'd have to upgrade turbo, IC, injectors, ECU, engine internals, etc.
Two weeks ago, I went down to S. Jersey to pick up a CF hood. Inside the guy's garage was a 1917 Model T Ford. Near perfect condition. The only thing changed about it is the engine. The fuel system used SS line and AN fittings as well. I was in shock and awe. If you take care of it, it'll take care of you.
To recap, what am I screwing up here? Also, what in-tank pump options do I have to keep the cabin quieter than with a Wally 255 without sacrificing fuel delivery? Any comments on AFPR options? What about running the new fuel lines where the old ones were? And what about in-cabin fuel pressure gauge?
Take special note of AN adapters. I remember not running the line from underneath the 2nd fitting from the pump for a reason and it was not because I couldn't get it loose either. I think it had to do with the fact the flare nut was on the pump's end of the line so it would have been more difficult to find the right male adapter for it. Seeing as the pump assembly had the threads, I decided to take out the rest of the line and just run a female AN adapter from there. Fuel delivery can be adjusted with voltage. AFPR's rarely fail. The only ones I heard of failing so far is Aeromotive and SARD. Good luck.
Thanks!!

Did my best to answer all questions.

 

[matthewdesigns]

I can only comment on a couple items you bring up.

I have a Wally 255HP, and it's only "noisy" when the tank is less than 1/4 full and the stereo is off, but even then it's not all that annoying. I have a stock catback, too, so nothing else to drown it out. With the stereo on, at a low volume, I don't even know it's there. I am running e85 with it, on an Evo3 16g at 25+psi, and have not had any fuel delivery issues. It took me into the 12's last year.

I use a fluid-filled gauge at the afpr (Aeromotive) and check base pressure periodically to make sure it's still set properly. I figure my wideband will let me know if I'm running lean, no matter what the cause, so I have not set up an in-cabin gauge.

Someone here on Tuners (perhaps turboglenn) has run a braided feed line from tank to aftermarket filter to rail, and uses the stock hard feed line as the new return line. IIRC, he (or whomever) did this to manage backpressure from higher rated pumps. You would not have to do this with a 255/similar pump, but if you are going to replace your feed line, you might consider doing this as a way to 1) save a little money, and 2) be set up for a more fuel if you ever do have the need. I believe all that was required was a few AN fittings, and a braided line from the afpr to the hard line. Edit: Link to thread.

Good luck!

 

[nicknorth11]

Should I worry about -8AN lines on the return side, or would 6AN be okay there? That'd mean I can still use the Fuelab kit and just look for 8AN filter, lines, and fittings.

-6AN will be fine for anything you can throw at it.

Another note: I saw at least one person mention the noise of an in-line pump. They are absolutely right, but you can wrap the pump in dynamat and also place a couple of squares of dynamat between the pump and car. That should greatly reduce any noise you'll hear, and it'll do it cheaply.

 

[kenamond]

Thanks again for all of the input.

I think for now, I'm going to go with the Fuelab AFPR kit, Denso 290 pump, -6AN line from pump to Dr. Gasket 6AN filter, -6AN line from filter to rail, rail adapter, and shadow series fittings.

Some folks made a couple of good points relating to the extra fuel pressure gauge; with a wideband gauge in the cockpit, that will be a somewhat indirect warning for fuel pressure under load, and the Fuelab AFPR and Denso pump seem pretty reliable. I plan on getting the WBO2 after the fuel upgrades, so that'll be my warning.

So now I have questions relating to the pump install. The VFAQ article recommends snipping the sheet metal to get the fuel feed line out with the pump housing. That's blasphemy in my book. If I have a 2nd person wrenching on the fitting while I lay under the car and twist the fuel line, can I get it off that way? Or can I pull the line up through the sheet metal (will the fitting on the other end fit between the fuel tank and sheet metal)? Also, would the new fitting turn independently of the line when I install it and tighten, or would I just reverse the process of having one person wrench while the other twisted the line?

Are there any modern improvements to the VFAQ 2G AWD Denso install? Like any tricks to get the in-tank filter to seat on the pump better, or getting the pump straighter in the bracket?

Time to start ordering stuff.

Thanks again!

 

[crimsondragon]

You can cut the sheetmetal with no negative effects. The main reason you want to cut it is because sometimes the pump assembly line is very hard to loosen and some people actually break the damn thing because of the way they're wrenching. They loosen the fitting underneath the car but the problem with that is the assembly will now not fit through the hole.

I actually have successfully loosen both the fitting at the pump and underneath the car. A common thing people do when they try to loosen the pump fitting is pressing down unconciously. It puts a lot of stress on the tube coming from the pump and thus snaps. The way I did it was linking two wrenches together to gain extra torque while positionining my body weight against the wrench, not on it while keeping a block of wood underneath the assembly tube and a 2nd wrench holding onto the fitting to keep the stress low.

Since you are going to replace the line all the way from the pump back, it's best to just undo the line at the assembly. Therefore, you will not need to cut the sheetmetal. The SS line fitting is independent of the AN male end. therefore all you need to do is just tighten the fitting against the AN adapter. No need to rotate the line.

 

[kenamond]

Well, I'm trying to pull the trigger on ordering some stuff. I might get the fuelab 6AN black fuel filter instead of the Mr. Gasket one, because I'm trying to find a couple of parts at one vendor to save on S&H. But I'm trying to find a place that sells the "correct" Denso pump to see if they have other stuff along with it like AN fittings and such. What is the specific Denso model? I think it's Denso # 950-0155 w/o the filter. There is also a 950-0107, but I don't know for sure which one. Anyone know a good vendor? I find plenty of Walbros at places like MAPerfomance, RRE, SBR, ExtremePSI, and Summit, but they don't have Denso, and I find Denso pumps various places, but I don't know if the vendors are reputable. Any suggestions?

 

[kenamond]

So I'm basing my pump-to-rail list on the thread below:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/231772-upgrade-6an-fuel-questions.html#post50409391

That thread references the SteveTek thread below:

SteveTek Labs Research: High Flow Fuel Delivery System

The summarized parts list from the first thread plus some details from the SteveTek page would then be:

(1) 6AN Male to 14mm x 1.5 Female Saginaw (connects fuel pump end to 6AN) with teflon tape on the pump-end-threads of the fitting.
(1) straight 6AN Female to connect hose to fuel pump connector
(1) straight 6AN Female to connect hose to fuel filter inlet.
(1) Fuelab 6AN fuel filter with 10 micron replaceable paper filter element.
(1) straight 6AN Female to connect hose to fuel filter outlet.
(1) 45 degree 6AN Female to connect to fuel rail adapter
(1) 6AN Fuel Rail Inlet adapter
(1) 10ft of SS Braided Flex Line (approx 8.5ft from pump to filter) (approx 1.5ft from filter to rail)

Then I saw this:

STM SENDING UNIT TO FUEL RAIL KIT | 90-99 DSM

And then I also saw this:

STM FPR -6AN FUEL RETURN KIT - SHADOW SERIES | 90-99 DSM

Looks like STM can set me up! But I noticed that the pump-to-rail kit doesn't have the 6AN Male to 14mm x 1.5 Female Saginaw connector. Do I just buy that separately?

 

[kenamond]

Got both kits from STM. I think I'll install them, then get the WBO2, then do the pump. Apparently, a rewired stock pump with new lines and better filter will flow a lot more, so I might have a bit more fuel. The WBO2 will let me know how far I can push boost.

 

[crimsondragon]

So I'm basing my pump-to-rail list on the thread below:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/231772-upgrade-6an-fuel-questions.html#post50409391

That thread references the SteveTek thread below:

SteveTek Labs Research: High Flow Fuel Delivery System

The summarized parts list from the first thread plus some details from the SteveTek page would then be:

(1) 6AN Male to 14mm x 1.5 Female Saginaw (connects fuel pump end to 6AN) with teflon tape on the pump-end-threads of the fitting.
(1) straight 6AN Female to connect hose to fuel pump connector
(1) straight 6AN Female to connect hose to fuel filter inlet.
(1) Fuelab 6AN fuel filter with 10 micron replaceable paper filter element.
(1) straight 6AN Female to connect hose to fuel filter outlet.
(1) 45 degree 6AN Female to connect to fuel rail adapter
(1) 6AN Fuel Rail Inlet adapter
(1) 10ft of SS Braided Flex Line (approx 8.5ft from pump to filter) (approx 1.5ft from filter to rail)

Then I saw this:

STM SENDING UNIT TO FUEL RAIL KIT | 90-99 DSM

And then I also saw this:

STM FPR -6AN FUEL RETURN KIT - SHADOW SERIES | 90-99 DSM

Looks like STM can set me up! But I noticed that the pump-to-rail kit doesn't have the 6AN Male to 14mm x 1.5 Female Saginaw connector. Do I just buy that separately?

For number 1, although the Teflon is a good idea, what you definitely need is a copper washer that fits inside the adapter otherwise it'll leak. I wouldn't worry too much about fuel filters as well. Whichever is more economical is best. As for the micron size, seems kind of excessive unless you fill up on shitty gas. I use a 40 micron and it works just fine. I have never encountered dirt or debris of any kind whenever I peak into the tank or take apart lines and the filter is spotless.

 

[kenamond]

For number 1, although the Teflon is a good idea, what you definitely need is a copper washer that fits inside the adapter otherwise it'll leak. I wouldn't worry too much about fuel filters as well. Whichever is more economical is best. As for the micron size, seems kind of excessive unless you fill up on shitty gas. I use a 40 micron and it works just fine. I have never encountered dirt or debris of any kind whenever I peak into the tank or take apart lines and the filter is spotless.

If you know specific part numbers or can point me to a page with what I need, that'd be very helpful. I don't want to get halfway through this thing and realize I need to park the car for a week waiting on something to ship. I'd like to have everything I need in hand.

By the way, I've already ordered the two kits I listed at the end of that post (from STM). The pump-to-rail kit doesn't list a Saginaw fitting, so I'm not sure if I still need to order that.

Thanks!

 

[crimsondragon]

Just get a M14 copper washer from Pep Boys or Autozone. You will need a AN to pipe thread adapter if you plan on going directly to AN from pump. There's no way the AN fitting will bolt onto the assembly.

 

[kenamond]

Just get a M14 copper washer from Pep Boys or Autozone. You will need a AN to pipe thread adapter if you plan on going directly to AN from pump. There's no way the AN fitting will bolt onto the assembly.

So it'll just be a male AN-06 to female metric 14mm x 1.5 with a crush washer between the male pump tube end and the metric end of the fitting? I'll look through Earl's and Summit for one. It's not in the install kit.

 

[crimsondragon]

So it'll just be a male AN-06 to female metric 14mm x 1.5 with a crush washer between the male pump tube end and the metric end of the fitting? I'll look through Earl's and Summit for one. It's not in the install kit.

Correct.
AN PLUMBING.COM Earls performance products Hose ends Hose,Adapter fittings
#9894
I see they said it has an internal O-ring. Check with them and see if you still need a crush washer. Mine did not have an O-ring in it.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

But I'm trying to find a place that sells the "correct" Denso pump to see if they have other stuff along with it like AN fittings and such. What is the specific Denso model? I think it's Denso # 950-0155 w/o the filter.

I like the idea of how much a Supra TT pump can flow as well as how quiet it is, but form what I have read on the supraforums, they have a much higher AMP draw over a wally 255. Something about when they try and run a dual OEM pump setup (Good to about 1000WHP on a TT) they keep blowing 20A fuses. So some of them switched to dual 255's or dual HKS/Denso upgraded units, and the problem went away. Just something to think about.