Fuel Rail AN Question and Starter Problem

[Boosted98RS]

I am having problems with this fuel rail leaking on the side and I'm not sure what I need to fix it. It seems like there is an O-ring maybe near the FPR part because it is able to be moved from side to side easily. Am I supposed to tighten this up? It is leaking fuel and I'm not sure what it is and don't want to mess it up. What kind of fuel rail is this anyway?

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I'm also having a problems with the starter it doesn't seem like it's working correctly. It tries to start then makes a grinding sound so I think the bolt's I have are wrong. I couldn't find the original ones or don't think I did. Where can I order these from? It's for a 2g 7bolt GST.

 

[dented_coffee]

I just posted a help reply on starter problems a few minutes ago . Here is the link directly to it. I'm the #2 poster on that thread. That sould solve all of your starter testing problems before going and buying a brand new one.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/384015-starter-not-getting-power.html

Is it just me or is that bolt hole on the lower right hand corner of the MAP sensor gonna be a boost leak?

Here is where you can buy your OEM starter for a really cheap price other than auto zone.
1. EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - OEM Starter : Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99
2. DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!
3. JNZ Tuning Online- OEM Mitsubishi Parts

As for the FUEL RAIL BRAND. I'm not sure what brand it is. It looks like a magnus rail to be honest . But the rail isnt the problem its the connections. There should be an o-ring seal on the connections for the fuel rail and FPR. If there bad you can pull them off and go to a hardware store and buy some new ones for cheap. Make sure you lightly put some sort of lube on them when installing or you will tear the o-ring to crap and it will leak again.

The connections are suppost to be tight yes. If you can move move the lines arround then they are one or more of these things.
1. loose connections
2. wrong size threded parts mated together
3. stripped or bent threads

I hope all of this helped you out on your DSM. Fuel is one thing you don't want leaking in the engine bay at all. It eats finishes and paint and WORSE. IT"S FLAMABLE and will catch fire eventually. I have seen a bunch of vehicles catch fire because of a fuel leak by the injectors, filter, and fuel rail and its fittings. PLEASE DON'T LET ANOTHER DSM GO IN A BLAZE OF GLORY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Boosted98RS]

I just posted a help reply on starter problems a few minutes ago . Here is the link directly to it. I'm the #2 poster on that thread. That sould solve all of your starter testing problems before going and buying a brand new one.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/384015-starter-not-getting-power.html

Is it just me or is that bolt hole on the lower right hand corner of the MAP sensor gonna be a boost leak?

Here is where you can buy your OEM starter for a really cheap price other than auto zone.
1. EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - OEM Starter : Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99
2. DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!
3. JNZ Tuning Online- OEM Mitsubishi Parts

As for the FUEL RAIL BRAND. I'm not sure what brand it is. It looks like a magnus rail to be honest . But the rail isnt the problem its the connections. There should be an o-ring seal on the connections for the fuel rail and FPR. If there bad you can pull them off and go to a hardware store and buy some new ones for cheap. Make sure you lightly put some sort of lube on them when installing or you will tear the o-ring to crap and it will leak again.

The connections are suppost to be tight yes. If you can move move the lines arround then they are one or more of these things.
1. loose connections
2. wrong size threded parts mated together
3. stripped or bent threads

I hope all of this helped you out on your DSM. Fuel is one thing you don't want leaking in the engine bay at all. It eats finishes and paint and WORSE. IT"S FLAMABLE and will catch fire eventually. I have seen a bunch of vehicles catch fire because of a fuel leak by the injectors, filter, and fuel rail and its fittings. PLEASE DON'T LET ANOTHER DSM GO IN A BLAZE OF GLORY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for all the info. I really think all I need are the starter bolt's. I'm going to check those sites and see if I can find them. I have 2 starters and both of them are good. It's just I think they are lining up right because I have the wrong bolts and it tries to start but then doesn't.

I'm going to have to look at the fuel rail... I fig it was an o-ring leaking or something but wasn't familiar with the rail that was on there.

 

[dented_coffee]

The fittings have the o-rings on them not the rail . Bolts don;t make the starter work it just holds it tightly in place.

Was it running when you bought the car?
Did you replace the flywheel?

The starter problem is something other than the bolts. If the bolts thread into the starter properly and hold it to the trans your problem is not there. It's possibly the starter is bad or the flywheel is the incorrect part you need and the teeth are not mateing to the starters gear.

 

[Boosted98RS]

The fittings have the o-rings on them not the rail . Bolts don;t make the starter work it just holds it tightly in place.

Was it running when you bought the car?
Did you replace the flywheel?

The starter problem is something other than the bolts. If the bolts thread into the starter properly and hold it to the trans your problem is not there. It's possibly the starter is bad or the flywheel is the incorrect part you need and the teeth are not mateing to the starters gear.

Ha, I'm dumb when it comes to some things! Sorry.... So I guess I'll replace the o-rings in the AN fittings on the rail then.

The car was running and starting just fine when I bought it. I didn't replace the flywheel I used the same one just a different clutch. I used the same starter but think I may have lost the bolts and I found some that seem like they fit. My friend was doing it and he said the bolts weren't holding it that great and it kept pushing up or something. I didn't know what he meant honestly. Because the first crank it tries to start but then it's like it's not lined up any longer.

 

[pj91gsx]

part of that line doesnt have o-rings. the only part that might is the fuel line to rail. connectors like those usually seal from the way they are designed on the inside.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

As said, there is an o-ring on the fitting itself where it attaches to the rail. It has to be a seal that can handle gasoline so make sure you get the correct one or you will be replacing it regularly. As far as the starter goes, unless the bolts are too long and they don't hold the starter tight up against the transmission bell housing, the bolts are highly unlikely to be the problem. More common is the starter is just going bad or the starter plate was not installed on the last clutch installation.

 

[99gst_racer]

It looks like a modified OBX rail. If so, there's nothing you can do to get it to seal. They're simply not machined properly (at least the two that I have seen in person weren't). I'd recommend a 2G fuel rail. Drill and tap the ends, thread in some fittings, and you're back in business. Steps 10, 11, & 12

 

[Boosted98RS]

Alright so it seems like an OBX Fuel Rail? I haven't messed with it lately just notice it was leaking when I was trying to do my initial startup. So I shouldn't silicon or do any of that around the edges, right? . I can check to see if there is any o-ring but I'm not sure. I do have a 2g ruel rail just had rather kept this one but I can replace it.

 

[pj91gsx]

i used jb weld on pressurized gas leaks before. it worked very well. i put about 15 to 20,000miles before wrecking the car, i put the part in my other car and it still works.