Fuel Pump & Oil Pressure Questions

[@TDC]

Hey guys I have a couple questions. First I am going to be installing an Evo 8 fuel pump in my 90 1g dsm and I know that the fuel pump harness in the 1g's is different and will not fit into the Evo pump. So my question is if I buy a Walbro install kit from ExtremePSI will this be enough to get my Evo fuel pump into my 1g? Or could I just use STM's fuel pump rewire kit without using a Walbro kit? I will post links to the kits I am looking at. I am also trying to find a write up for an Evo 8 fuel pump in a 1g but cannot find anything. So if anyone knows where to find one please post a link. Next I am going to be installing an Autometer C2 short sweep electric boost gauge. I was wondering if I could screw the sender into any different ports of the oil filter housing? Or will I need to replace the old OEM sensor with the new Autometer sender? I would like to use both senders and still retain the OEM oil pressure gauge as well as have my new oil pressure gauge.


Here are the links to the fuel pump install kits that I am looking at for my Evo fuel pump.

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

STM FUEL PUMP REWIRE KIT | 1G DSM | 2G DSM | EVO

Well guys I was deciding between the Autometer C2 oil pressure gauge (short sweep) or the Innovate G3 oil pressure gauge. I decided to purchase the Innovate G3 oil pressure gauge. I didnt want to shell out $150+ for an oil pressure gauge. (Full sweep C2) The short sweep C2 didnt have an accurate gauge reading due to it being short sweep. I figured I have the LC1 WB so it should go nicely with my setup. It also has a long full accurate gauge. It also is electric. So now I am trying to figure out where exactly to tap in the OFH for the sender. I would like to keep the OEM sender also. Here is a picture of a 90 OFH I got from google. Thanks for the help!

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[We're on Boost]

Hopefully that will be good. For some reason I don't have a hose clamp like that lying around here in my dining room, I don't know why not, seems like just about everything else is lying around here. I found my Cyberdyne gage kit only about 4 feet away.

Anyway, I can't tell how your wire is attached to that screw on the clamp - is it a ring terminal like you have on the other end of the wire? As long as the connections are pretty tight it should be ok. The idea is you want low contact resistance at all the contacting points.
I just got out my Fluke 87 to measure the resistance of my sender. It is only 6 ohms, sitting here at room pressure. So for example if you measured the resistance of your ground setup, measured from the case to the ring terminal on the other end of your wire, if that resistance was 6 ohms, your gage reading would be way off at low pressures like at idle. Hopefully the resistance through your ground setup is only about 1 ohm , or less. And hopefully the sender resistance goes up a lot as pressure goes up.

 

[@TDC]

Hopefully that will be good. For some reason I don't have a hose clamp like that lying around here in my dining room, I don't know why not, seems like just about everything else is lying around here. I found my Cyberdyne gage kit only about 4 feet away.

Anyway, I can't tell how your wire is attached to that screw on the clamp - is it a ring terminal like you have on the other end of the wire? As long as the connections are pretty tight it should be ok. The idea is you want low contact resistance at all the contacting points.
I just got out my Fluke 87 to measure the resistance of my sender. It is only 6 ohms, sitting here at room pressure. So for example if you measured the resistance of your ground setup, measured from the case to the ring terminal on the other end of your wire, if that resistance was 6 ohms, your gage reading would be way off at low pressures like at idle. Hopefully the resistance through your ground setup is only about 1 ohm , or less. And hopefully the sender resistance goes up a lot as pressure goes up.

Yes it is a ring connector just like the other end of the wire! It is clamped down pretty tight! I really need to upgrade my multimeter. Right now I have the manual range harbor freight $2.99 multimeter.

 

[Jon91TSi]

One thing to consider with the autometer sending unit... Vibration kills them extremely fast. If you don't want to keep buying $50 sending units remote mount the sending unit. I have been through 2 sending units and now have mine remote mounted so the vibration directly off the OFH doesn't kill them. ExtremePSI sells a remote mount kit.

EDIT:

Just saw the pictures of the remote mount line you have. That'll get the job done!

 

[@TDC]

One thing to consider with the autometer sending unit... Vibration kills them extremely fast. If you don't want to keep buying $50 sending units remote mount the sending unit. I have been through 2 sending units and now have mine remote mounted so the vibration directly off the OFH doesn't kill them. ExtremePSI sells a remote mount kit.

EDIT:

Just saw the pictures of the remote mount line you have. That'll get the job done!

Thanks alot for the heads up! I really appreciate it!

 

[We're on Boost]

One thing to consider with the autometer sending unit... Vibration kills them extremely fast. If you don't want to keep buying $50 sending units remote mount the sending unit. I have been through 2 sending units and now have mine remote mounted so the vibration directly off the OFH doesn't kill them. ExtremePSI sells a remote mount kit.

Interesting.
Now that TDC got me interested in this thing again I've been thinking I would finally after all these years install mine - right into the OFH with no thread sealant. Now the vibration thing, hmm, whatever, I'm going to do it anyway just to see what happens!

I do think the sender you are talking about (Jon91) is very similar to the Innovate/Cyberdyne sender although probably made by a different manufacturer. Single wire, variable resistance type. If it is about $50 for the sender you are probably talking about the senders they use in the short-sweep electric gages? The fancier senders they have are more like $100.

The ~$50 sender would be like this part number 2242 for the 4327 kit:

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Ok here's the instructions for this thing:

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By golly they have the vibration warning right there in bold type. Good for them.

But look at the grounding/thread sealant notes:

"Sender ground through threads."

AND

"Use teflon sealing compound on pipe threads."

So we're 3 for 3 on different manufacturers giving different advice on grounding. Pretty funny.

 

[@TDC]

Interesting.
Now that TDC got me interested in this thing again I've been thinking I would finally after all these years install mine - right into the OFH with no thread sealant. Now the vibration thing, hmm, whatever, I'm going to do it anyway just to see what happens!

I do think the sender you are talking about (Jon91) is very similar to the Innovate/Cyberdyne sender although probably made by a different manufacturer. Single wire, variable resistance type. If it is about $50 for the sender you are probably talking about the senders they use in the short-sweep electric gages? The fancier senders they have are more like $100.

The ~$50 sender would be like this part number 2242 for the 4327 kit:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

[/URL][/IMG]


Ok here's the instructions for this thing:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

[/URL][/IMG]

By golly they have the vibration warning right there in bold type. Good for them.

But look at the grounding/thread sealant notes:

"Sender ground through threads."

AND

"Use teflon sealing compound on pipe threads."

So we're 3 for 3 on different manufacturers giving different advice on grounding. Pretty funny.

I agree thats pretty funny how different the instructions are. I will be sure to chime in on how my sender performs. Does anyone know what the ideal oil pressure is for stock 6 bolt block??

 

[We're on Boost]

Does anyone know what the ideal oil pressure is for stock 6 bolt block??

Well in the Haynes manual for 1990-94 Talon/Eclipse, it says:

Oil pressure (engine warm) .............. 11 psi minimum at idle

That's in the engine overhaul specs in Chapter 2.

I don't see a spec anywhere for what it should be at higher revs but it does go way up.