1G Fuel cut?? What I need to to get my car at 18psi

[NOOB1GDUDE]

Hi every one. I'm a noob and would like to get some info on how to get my car not to hit fuel cut. Mods are in my profile. As of rite now my car idles good 14.7 to 15.3 and the mid is rite around 11.3 to 11.9 on the wideband. My car feels really strong at mid But when I go into wot around 5k and up it leans out to 15.7 and bam fuel cut. Been tunning my car with Maf-t. Maf-t is set to aux 0 base2 idle3 mid0 wot0. This is all at 15 psi to 18psi as I do have some boost creep also.I'm broke as of now. So cheap fix only please. Thanks

 

[pauleyman]

Paul thanks for the info. I'm venting to the air with gm maf. Can leaks on the mani still cause me to get the hick ups?

You still need to test the entire system.

 

[joejoe]

If it isnt a brick wall it isnt fuel cut. 15psi is very low for fuel cut on a 14b. Check for leaks.
How do you get 380 for 2k? You dont.

I posted how to make that hp. Take it or leave it. But don't say you can't when it's been done.

 

[NOOB1GDUDE]

In two weeks I'll be buying ecm link v3 and putting in my walbo 255 with rewire kit and fpr. I'll keep you guys posted thanks for all the help. And I'll do a boost leak test to see what happens. And many thanks to Joe joe for hooking things up for me.(should of join the form sooner)

 

[biglady112]

Turn the boost down original poster and put a 2g mas air flow sensor in your car or save up for dsmlink or whatever you choose and move to speed density. Literally installing dsmlink will remove fuel cut as it is a feature built into the program right out of the box. Stop beating on your car until you get the engine dynamics under control.

 

[Mitsuridr]

Do a boost leak test man. Even if you don't think you have one, you probably do if you haven't tested. My car was running strong as hell at 18psi with nothing close to a hiccup. Then I installed my fmic and hard piping and bam fuel cut right at 5k. I was so pissed, I mean I cranked down all the t clamps and made sure they were straight and everything. Long story short, turns out my bov flange wasn't mating up to my bov correctly even with a new gasket. Removed it and put a light bead of rtv down then gasket then rtv and finally bolted bov on. after that it's like it never happened and it was back to pulling hard as hell. 15psi on a 1g with stock fuel to my knowledge should not hit fuel cut unless you have a weak fuel pump or lazy injectors. Do a blt man, your car will thank you.

 

[biglady112]

A weak fuel pump and "lazy" injectors do not have anything to do with fuel cut. It has to do with mass airflow over run, poor air metering or large boost leaks which come back to over run and poor air metering.

 

[joejoe]

I should have joined years ago... haha. Told you Enriquez let the bashing begin.
Fyi. I run hx40 at sea level on e85 and can't break 11's. Next time instead of throwing a fit at everone ask how the claim was possible then decide for yourself if it was even probable. Like I said this car was trash in 2 weeks. I cut the damn hatch and roof of this thing haha in those 2 weeks. No gas tank. 3 gallon fuel cell. shitty tubular front end tiny Honda half radiator. The list is endless. I did every hack job I could have. At the end 5 days before taking it to scrap I was driving around with no doors or hood... like a dumb ass. So I guess I am a bit of an idiot... but seriously ask how... and do it for yourself. Most people build cars to keep them I don't blame them I have clean cars now.. but then I was real Joe dirt haha.

Fyi... I'm sure no one is dumb enough to drive a small car around without doors but if you do... you will get a fine and could get towed. Haha. I didn't get either but I did get pulled over twice and told to go straight home. I told the cop... "jeeps do it, why not i. " haha

Also my bad for being way off topic.. anyone who wishes to continue can pm me.

 

[Mitsuridr]

You are correct @biglady112 it is caused by an overrun of the maf. I was rambling and got ahead of myself. I meant to refer that to his lean af readings on boost.

 

[JusMX141]

Well, that sure was fun.


To the O.P. of the thread...here's a handy guide when deciding what direction to take with your car in the future:

1) Do you own two or more reliable cars? If "no", got to #2; If "yes", go to #3.
2) You shouldn't be putting crappy eBay parts on a car you count on to drive every day. Go to #4
3) You should have enough income to allow you to spend more for higher-quality parts. Go to #6.
4) Do you have a decent pile of cash laying around to spend on parts? If "no", go to #5; If "yes", go to #6.
5) Stop fooling around with a car you need to keep running and dependable which you obviously can't afford to build properly.
6) Buy a high-quality product from a vendor that will support you should it wear out or fail prematurely.


Basically, if you're planning on building the car then wait until you can afford to do it correctly instead of just doing global airflow correction via a MAF translator and hoping it stays together. Put the stock MAS back in the car and set the boost to a stock level so the car is safely driveable. Power doesn't necessarily come from the amount of boost you run- the tune and supporting mods is what makes power.

 

[gofer]

Anymore Honda talk or pissing contests that could potentially derail this thread (again) will get deleted and warnings will be issued.

 

[bastarddsm]

You could buy a chip for $100, and a set of Evo 560cc injectors for $50 and it will do everything you want.

You need an EPROM ECU however.

 

[NOOB1GDUDE]

Wow now there's a new problem. Well here it goes...replaced the plug to the cas. The car idle and drove fine. This morning I started the car and bam leaned out.22.5 on the wideband. Sounded like it was tuning on two cylnders. So I checked the spark and no spark checked the injectors and no ticking. The two in the middle are not sparking and injectors not working as I unplug them the car still sounds the same. Any thoughts on this I know I still have the fuel thang and getting on that but there is a new problem now and the car can't be driven.I'll keep u all posted once I get the v3 in in two weeks.

 

[NOOB1GDUDE]

I'm post the car video asap. Don't know what it is friend say it might be the cas.

 

[pauleyman]

Decent rule of thumb. If something goes wrong right after a change, go first to that last change.

 

[NOOB1GDUDE]

Well the wirer size where different on the new plug maybe that's what is causing it? Don't know. Maybe v3 will show me

 

[NOOB1GDUDE]

For now it's just another dead dsm dammm

 

[enriquez2000]

Nake sure you wired it right.. sounds like a cas issue but changing the plug and having wires wrong would do it if it worked before

 

[NOOB1GDUDE]

It runs now but it will pop up while I'm driving or so. It seems to only happen when it goes in low rpm. I'll wait till I get the v3. Will the v3 be able to tell me what's wrong?

 

[boostdawd]

If cylinders 2 and 3 are not sparking then it's going to be an issue with your coilpack. Maybe power transistor.

 

[NOOB1GDUDE]

That's what my friend intown said. I have been getting alittle miss firing every now and then but would that cause the motor to cut the fuel to those injectors? When it happens the cylinders have no fuel and spark at all. Stumped spending all my money on the v3 set up already so I hope it will find the problem.

 

[NOOB1GDUDE]

And when it dose work the cylinders fire up spark and fuel.

 

[NOOB1GDUDE]

And sorry no vids yet as the car is not wanting to ack up when I'm recording it (shy)

 

[Mitsuridr]

When that happened to me it was the power transistor. It cut spark though, I don't remember it cutting off the injectors as well

 

[boostdawd]

Wow now there's a new problem. Well here it goes...replaced the plug to the cas.

Did u solder and heatshrink the connections to the Cas and plug?

 

[NOOB1GDUDE]

No sodder but rap it up good and heat srink it.