The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support STM Tuned

Front steering arm/ball joint removal

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Lucas03es

10+ Year Contributor
285
0
Jul 28, 2009
Las Vegas, Nevada
Im swapping my vr4 to five lug. Im trying to get the front hub assembly off, but it seems to want to fight me. Ive got the axle out, and the caliper pulled along with the strut bolts removed. I took off the nuts for the steering arm and the ball joint, to where the whole assembly should be ready to remove. I cant get the steering arm to come out, nor the ball joint stud. They seem to be in there pretty tight. Do I need a pickle fork for this, or is there any other tricks?
 
Take a hammer and hit the side of the knuckle (right where the ball joint/tie rod connect). Don't hit the ball joint or tie rod at all, just the knuckle itself. Unless you plan on replacing the ball joint/tie rod anyways, then hit away. A pickle fork usually destroys the boot.
 
I always use an air hammer for these kinds of things. It removes them easily and painlessly in an instant.
 
I agree with both, but if you are doing the swap I would just change out the tie rods and ball joints anyway. And make sure to grease! I raced dirt track cars for some time and still travel with a good Istock team, I had a ball joint go out one time and will never forget!! If you break one you instantly become a low rider... not what you want on the street. They are cheap and worth it.
 
The way i look at it , if they feel within spec and the boot is good i am not going to replace them. Alot of times the aftermarket suspension and steering parts are trash and won't last as long as the old used one will.
 
Well you obviously need to get quality parts but if you are swapping anything I don't see why you would keep old parts and mix them with new ones.. why not just go new.
 
Well you obviously need to get quality parts but if you are swapping anything I don't see why you would keep old parts and mix them with new ones.. why not just go new.

What brand would you consider quality? Most everything that is sold at any parts store, moog, spicer, and not on par with oem quality. Aftermarket brand parts generally do not last as long as oem. He is just swapping spindles, no need to throw in new ball joints which are in the control arms. If they are loose than replace them, if not than leave them alone.
 
Well he already has the suspension easily accessible, Considering those ball joints are 19 years old I would consider replacing them because chances are they are not up to what I would consider dependable standards. Just general maintenance for suspension.. especially after almost 2 decades.
 
Alright I got the spindles off. The passenger side boot for the ball joint ended up ripping during the process, and both tie rod ends are ripped. I have a whole spare parts car I am pulling these pieces from. How hard is it to swap those pieces over? It looks like the tie rod I can just take the end links off, but the ball joint im a bit confused on the removal. Thanks guys I appreciate all the input
 
It would be easier to just bolt the control arm from the other car on if they are in better shape. If the boot is damaged than the joint will have debris in it and should be replaced.
 
Awesome, Ill most likely go ahead and do that providing the ball joint on the same side is in good condition. Thanks fellas!
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top