The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Front 95 awd wheel bearing

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

fwdturbobov1996

15+ Year Contributor
1,504
8
Feb 27, 2004
Blue Springs, Missouri
I searched and found a few threads and I think that my wheel bearing has been the cause of my brake/turning/metal on metal noise problem. Car during turns makes a HORRIFIC sound. I also read that when the wheel bearing is so shot that it will press the rotor against the pad, well I ahd this problem with teh car wanting to stop by itself all the time, so I thought it was a brake caliper failure. Bought a wilwood big brake kit, still there, but it doesnt brake by itself. Still I dont drive the car at all cause I dont want a wheel to fall off or ruin the new rotors. It doesnt make that much noise in a straight line, but make a slight turn and it wants to make baby jesus cry its so bad.

I know I need some sort of special tool. I dont want to rent one, I would rather buy one, I want to SAVE my axle if I can. Im pretty familiar with the suspension, in teh last month I have lowered the car and added the big brake kit. I just wanted to have second opinions on what everyone thought it was.
 
thanks. I have a big brake kit, I need to find that nut to put on the axle so I dont mushroom it :) Where did you rent that from?

Now by just looking at that it attaches to the wheel studs, and it actually presses the axle in and you slid the hub off or what?


I just got an alignment like 2 weeks ago, RIGHT before this thing went out, will I need another one?
 
Use the nut that is on the end of the axel. Rented from an automotive/truck tool rental place for $10. Get this larger 1" truck hub puller model CTA4320 - I have a car front hub puller that I completely ruined because the axel was so stuck. Yes it presses the axel through (axel has splines that always rust in place to the hub and near impossible to pound out) and then you unbolt the hub from the inside and pound it out (outwards). You shouldn't need another alignment if a hub replacement is all you do. You don't have to undo any ball joints or tie rods if you just unbolt the lower control arms from the chassis end and the fork from the knuckle. Put anti-sieze on the axel splines when reassembly.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top