Friction point changes when hot

[peter535]

Hi I'm having a problem with my 2g eclipse, when i drive my car for 15 min or more the engagement point on my pedal goes all the way up and then the clutch starts to slip, So i park the car for a lil bit to cool down and it works fine for about 15 min . The clutch isn't that old about 1000 miles, i also just put in a new slave and master cylinder. Can anyone help me please I'm trying to fix this problem so i can sell my car thanks.

 

[kchaazz]

2G pedal pump up. This is an issue for lots of you guys. The following is quoted from RRE's site:

2G Pedal "Pump Up"
If you are fighting an inconsistent pedal adjustment in a 2G, adjust the upper pedal stop adjuster so that you gain additional free play at the top of the pedal travel. Loosen the lock nut and turn the whole switch to get the necessary freeplay (see above pic). You'll probably end up with the clutch pedal sitting a bit higher than the brake pedal. If this is your problem, you will notice that the pedal suddenly gets very tight and the release point will suddenly move up a lot, this is the cause.

2Gs need free play at the top of the pedal travel. If it is close to no travel and right on the edge, then it pumps up. Only 2Gs have a relief valve in the master cylinder that needs to be uncovered so fluid can go back into the reservoir on the clutch release. If not, it gets tighter and tighter and tighter. Then it may slowly relieve the pressure and it is back to normal. Just a 2G thing. You need more free play at the top of the pedal travel.

Left unchecked, the pedal will pump up more and more. The clutch will begin to slip since it is as if you are driving around with your foot on the clutch pedal. Also it plays hell on the crankshaft thrust bearings. The constant pressure pushes the clutch release bearing onto the clutch and flywheel. When centrifugal force throws the clutch release fingers outwards, they make additional pressure on the thrust bearings of the crank. This is an additional factor in short lived crankshaft release bearings and an additional potential cause for crankwalk.

 

[peter535]

So what exactly do i have to do

 

[kchaazz]

Pop your hood and go to the fork that comes out of the tranny that the rod from the slave goes into. (If you replaced the slave yourself, youll know what im referring to) Grab that fork and push it toward the driver side of the car, whichll push the rod into the slave. If you cannot move the fork easily, it is because the adjustment rod on your master cylinder is out too far, effectively blocking the relief valve within the master. (I know for a fact yours is blocked) Did you replace the master cylinder yourself? If so, you know where the adjustment rod is and how to adjust it. If not, push your driver seat back all the way and look up under the dash where the clutch pedal is and youll see the adjustment rod is. Ive attached a photo of this. The one you want is labelled "rod adjustment". Loosen the locknut a couple turns. Grab the rod and screw it in- towards the cockpit, not towards the engine bay. (wiggling the clutch pedal up and down gently will make turning the rod by hand very easy) Now go to that fork I mentioned and see if you can push the fork toward the drivers side of the car easily. If so, tighten the locknut on the adjustment rod. If not, screw the rod in a tad more.

 

[flexnuts02]

I am having the same issue here and I had been so concerned the crank was moving. Mine happens only when revs are brought up for cruising town, less of a load but higher revs than normal, the clutch will be gone. Slow and easy town shifting the clutch is fine. I just noticed this morning that BEFORE I heated up the oil, it shifted fine even when I slowly raised the revs with low load. Normally that would "trip" the symptom. For awhile the clutch was "JUST above the floor" And when the issue started, I extended the rod to get another turn of "play" with the clutch disengagement. I will have to read your posts again to understand what you are saying, but I'm pretty sure mine was adjusted properly

NVM, his engagement comes way up, mine is further down, and when I encounter the ptoblem the clutch egagement diasappears and the pedal goes floppy.

 

[LiquidX]

Start off by doing a proper clutch adjustment as noted above. Here is the video
<iframe width="420" height="345" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/vYJxQyjIhUw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

It only takes a few mins to do. If you want to adjust the pedal stop height you'll need a 14mm wrench to loosen the clutch switch and that is the first thing you'll want to do if you decide to do it. Be sure to tighten the nut back up after you adjust it out. Next, take a 12mm wrench and loosen the nut on the rod adjustment that is just infront of the angle bracket that int he picture above (says "rod adjustment" and the arrow is pointing to the nut).

Start off by turning it in 3 full turns, go to the slave cylinder and see if the push rod is able to be pushed back into the cylinder by hand.

-If it can be pushed in by hand, make another turn on the adjustment rod and recheck pushrod. Continue until it no longer pushes in by hand.

-If it cannot be pushed in by hand, back out the rod adjustment 1/2 turn at a time until the push rod can be pushed back in.

Once that point is reached that you found the point of not being able to push in the rod and backed out to allow movement, you have adjusted the clutch properly. If you want to get more involved, after backing it out enough to allow movement, turn the rod IN 1/4 turn or less until above is reached and then back it out 1/4 turn. Make sure that you push in the rod at least 2 times to ensure fluid is freely traveling back through the relief hole and not becoming pressurized. Don't forget to tighten the 12mm nut to lock the rod in place.

Car will drive much better afterwards assuming you had an improperly adjusted clutch.

 

[flexnuts02]

Great post! Now lets hope my problem vanishes after I use this method!!