FP Intake / PVC tap idea

[jason_gsx]

I've been looking for a good solution that allows me to keep the PVC hooked up to the intake with the FP AIP. I've seen a few posts about tapping the FP pipe and a few suggestions about tapping the BOV recirc hose. I'd rather not put a hole in my new FP AIP and the BOV recirc hose has a small diameter so I'd prefer to leave it alone.

So, the question... would it be reasonable to tap the silicone connector between the MAF and the FP AIP? Does anyone see any potential issues with that approach?

 

[Calan]

So, the question... would it be reasonable to tap the silicone connector between the MAF and the FP AIP? Does anyone see any potential issues with that approach?

It would never seal, and would look ghetto as hell.

I'm guessing you mean the line going from the VC breather port to the turbo inlet...right? The PCV valve runs to the intake manifold.

Just tap the FP intake pipe. It takes like 10 minutes, and you can always put a nice anodized aluminum plug in it if you ever want to remove the hose. If you tap the back side of it, it would barely be visible.

 

[jason_gsx]

It would never seal, and would look ghetto as hell.

I'm guessing you mean the line going from the VC breather port to the turbo inlet...right? The PCV valve runs to the intake manifold.

Just tap the FP intake pipe. It takes like 10 minutes, and you can always put a nice anodized aluminum plug in it if you ever want to remove the hose. If you tap the back side of it, it would barely be visible.

Yep, that is what I meant. I was just trying to find a good way to avoid tapping the FP AIC. I guess I'll just go for it. Thanks.

 

[Calan]

You can just can tap it for something like a 1/4 NPT fitting, but don't run the tap in too deep. And do it while it's off the car of course.

I'm not sure how thick the FP intake is, but it's probably pretty thin; which doesn't leave a lot of material for the threads to engage. Use some good thread sealer on it or blue gel loctite.

A much better solution is to weld a female weld bung into it, similar to this (3/8" NPT breather port and 1/8" NPT test port, shown with plugs in them):

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[jason_gsx]

Do you happen to know what size NPT fitting I should use for the charcoal canister hose? I probably should keep that one attached too, and I noticed the hose seems to be a larger size.

 

[Calan]

The NPT size doesn't matter as much as the hose barb size. For example, you could get a 1/4 hose barb in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 NPT etc.

With that said, you want the smallest NPT size that still gives you the right barb size if you are tapping the intake directly. The larger the thread size, the less thread engagement you get in the thin intake material and the harder it is to seal. Take your vac hose to a hardware store and find a barb that fits snugly, and then look for that barb in the smallest NPT size they have. You'll probably want something like 1/8 NPT x 1/8" or 3/16" barb...but that is just a guess.

If you use the weld bungs as shown above, go larger so you can upgrade to larger lines in the future if you want without having to redo the intake (another advantage to going that route).

 

[jason_gsx]

Yep, that is what I meant, I was hoping someone knew what size would fit well on the hose barb side for both hoses. I'll definitely use the smallest size available on the thread side. I will just take the hoses into the store tomorrow if all else fails.

 

[Sirnixalot]

i know its not an FP intake but i took some inspiration from 99gst_racer in the thread link below
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/372279-my-new-crankcase-evactuation-system.html

I came up with this

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3/4" aluminum tubing with the notch cut into into it and a -8AN male fitting welded to the other end.