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Flywheel cover inspection plate [merged]

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civic619

20+ Year Contributor
150
1
Feb 17, 2003
Hey guys, would someone here know what size bolt would i need to install the flywheel inspection cover on a 2g GST???

If you are not familiar with this part, its the cover that goes on the tranny where the tranny and block meet. Without the cover, the flywheel is exposed.

Thanks for you help and info!!!

also, is it true that DSM trannys are weak???
 
Solution
Not sure if this was ever answered (I'm not searching through 4 pages ;-) ), but the bolts (for AWD 6 Bolt and AWD 7 Bolt M/T Cars) (thanks, 99dsmer4g63!):

2G: Shield to block- Qty. 2 6x10mm (I believe they're 1.00mm thread pitch)
2G: Shield to trans- 8mx12mm (1.25mm as per 19Eclipse90 reminder)

1G Shield to block- Qty.2 6x12mm
1G Shield to trans- 8x12mm
Well, you could also call me paranoid which is why I asked and why I haven't been driving the car yet. In fact, i'm currently taking a break from trying to whip up some ghetto fabulous sheet metal cover to post this message. Something to get me by until I get a chance to take it to someone that actually has some skill and can whip up a nice little cover for me (it ain't gonna be pretty). I'm going somewhere this saturday to see if I can get something made to cover everything up. :) But, I don't want to drive there unprotected and potentially risk damaging my new flywheel, clutch, or possibly even the transmission.
 
This isnt suppose to be like this correct, shouldn't their be a cover? Also isnt their suppose to be a ground by the exhaust?
 

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Yes, there is a flywheel cover for that. You could look on extremepsi.com 's web site for one or look at mitsubishi-parts-dealer.com for that part.

As for exhaust ground yes, there should be a strap for that. It would hook up to the downpipe and body.
 
Thanks guys. If i dont have the ground what can happen. I heard it causes knock

I haven't heard anything about it causing knock. Its just to help ground your O2 sensor.


Edit: If you want to fix this, just go to an autoparts store - get some wire and some connectors(with the ring terminal) and hook it up. Its not too hard to do.
 
Hah! Check it out:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237834

I had the same question. I was laying under my car for an oil change, and all of the sudden I thought... man, that doesn't look like it should be there...

I found the part on CAPS (dsm part guide), and priced it at about $7 on a few online mitsu parts places. I never got around to ordering though, I need to do that. Let me know if you need the info, I'll look it up again.
 
Is it easy to put back on, what do i have to take off.

Its not that hard to do with everything hooked up. It took me like a minute to install it w/ the transfer case on.

Oh yeah, there are two versions of the flywheel cover. Make sure you get the AWD one. I got the FWD cover by default but, its all good.
 
There's actually three bolts, two go up into the block, one into the tranny. It'll be obvious when you mount it up. I think one of the block bolts is hidden above the xfer case though.
 
Mine is all bent up and held on by 2 bolts. I think it got stepped on or something during the clutch swap. :( Kinda nice that it's one of the few CHEAP dealer parts though.
 
I have been hearing a weird metalic grind periodically from my car... more like a chirp, particularly when I rev the engine while in gear. It sounds like it is coming from the driver side, but sometimes from the passanger side.

I cannot find anything really loose that would make that sound. So I thought I would take the flywheel cover off and see what I could see. I found a great deal of black powder around the bell housing and on the flywheel cover.

I checked end play crank with and without the clutch pressed, and I didn't see much movement at all, very solid. So does it look like my clutch it going and what could be making the sound?

Here are larger photos:
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/Splitpi/DSCF1416.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/Splitpi/DSCF1415.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/Splitpi/DSCF1413.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/Splitpi/DSCF1412.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/Splitpi/DSCF1410.jpg
 

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The end of the "teeth" on your flywheel looked exactly like mine looked when my starter was going out. I know you said that it grinds a little bit in gear while reving (which mine never did by the way) but does it also grind for a quick second when you start the car?
 
The end of the "teeth" on your flywheel looked exactly like mine looked when my starter was going out. I know you said that it grinds a little bit in gear while reving (which mine never did by the way) but does it also grind for a quick second when you start the car?

Yes, it grinds or more of a "chirp" when I rev while in gear and the car is in motion. Also sometimes I do hear a slight grind on start, I have been hearing this since I bought the car. So at the 60k mark (12K miles ago) I replaced the starter as part of my 60K maintance. This didn't solve it the startup grind.... I am think possible AC compressor now, since I have replace the Altenator (due to very low voltage once the engine bay was hot) and PS pump (had a possible seal leak) as well and that is the only thing left besides the oil pump.

So I am rather confused.
 
Update: So pulled off the Altenator and PS pump belts and I felt the Water pump pulley... since the altenator belt drives the water pump, which in turn drives the PS pump.

I notice in-out, up-down play on the water pump pulley. Its not much but a little, enough to feel movement but not to really see it. I'll see if can hook a gauge up to it and measure the movement of the pully. I replaced the waterpump 12 k miles ago as part of 60k maintance with a new mitsu one from the dealership.

Is this normal play? The other pulleys on PS and Altenator fell rock solid. I'll try to post with some measurments of the play.

Edit:
I'm measuring ~0.005 to 0.007 in. of movement from center position. This I am leading towards as the culprit of my metal chirp as in my mind the change in torque due to being under load (in gear) cause extra pressure on the belts and thus the bearing in the water pump moves and causes the chirp.. Other ideas? I did look closer aswell at the pulley. It looks like the belt has rubbed against the plastic TB cover and the metal bracket just over the water pump (Generator Brace). But the belts look ok to me... better than I would have thought even. Also the water pump is AISIAN brand and not mitsu...

Is it possible to change the waterpump without doing a full TB change?
 
You have to remove the TB to remove the water pump.
So when you removed the alt, A/C, and PS belts is the noise still there when you run engine?
Couple things to check before assuming it's the water pump:
1) Make sure the water pump pulley is not on backwards (it's actually 2 halves put together). It's easy to do and it adds a slight offset to the belt alignment (sight down the belt from PS pulley to see).
2) Make sure your harmonic balancer (crank pulley) is not separating (inner ring from outer) which is a common problem and makes noise on startup.
 
I took the AC and PS off and I'm still hearing the metal chirp. It just isn't as bad (I'm thinking cause the PS belt isn't putting extra load Water Pump Pulley. I checked the water pump pulley and it is tight.

This either means its the Waterpump or altenator.... but given the movement in the waterpump... I think it is that.
 
Does anybody know where i can get a deal on a flywheel cover? I just bought my 97 gs-t probably 3 weeks ago and after fixing my oil pressure sensor wire i noticed that there was no flywheel cover:notgood:
Thanks in advance.
 
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