Fixing a leak from my oil pan

[project15]

My oil pan has started to drip quite a bit and I've decided to attempt to fix it. Now I'm wondering what is involved in taking off the oil pan. I'm going to buy a used one since mine has a dent in it. Will I have to remove part of the frame and/or the downpipe or can i get around it with a simple wratchet, sockets, and extensions? I have the PB blaster all ready for this job too. Any help would be great before I jump right into this.

Oh yeah, does the oil pan require its own gasket or do i just put the gasket maker all around it and bolt it back on?

 

[steve-o_95_GST]

You will have to unbolt the downpipe and since you are awd you have to drop the transfer case. Thats all you will have to remove to get it out but you should consider buying a chiltons or haynes manual or a fsm if you can get your hands on one.

-Steve

 

[project15]

I can probably find one at the library, and I have some experience with cars from a past job, however, it's the lack of tools that I have that is my problem. What tools will I need to do this job (transfer case)?

 

[thrdtryGSX]

You will need a basic socket set. It is a good idea to have a simple arsinal anyway. 8mm-20mm will do nearly everything you need. I only have a socket set, and a combination wrench set and I do all of my own work. If you want to avoid removong the driveshaft you will need a deep socket to loosen the front driveshaft bolts. Otherwise you will also need a 14mm combination wrench to remove the driveshaft entirely. Have a drain-pan ready to catch the 90wt oil that will leak out of the back of the T-Case. Also you will need a 3 or 4 inch extension to get the top T-Case bolt. Hope that helps.

 

[steve-o_95_GST]

1/2 drive ratchet, 17mm socket with extension is what I used to unbolt it. You would also need to remove the driveshaft and thats 4 12mm bolts/nuts on the rear diff and it pulls out of the x-fer case. Watch out when you pop the x-fer case from the transmission b/c its alot heavier than it looks when you are on your back.

-Steve

 

[project15]

will pieces fall out of the transfer case that I should be careful about not letting them fall? and how hard is it to put the transfer case back on? Does anything need to line up specifically like timing components do?

 

[steve-o_95_GST]

Nothing will fall out, just make sure to drain the fluid before you take off the driveshaft. There is nothing to line up but dont play around with the shafts or anything, I like to put things back together just like I took them a part. Just be careful when it pops off the outputshaft because its going to be alot heavier than you think. Trust me a x-fer case to the chest really hurts so you may want to put a jack under it or something to hold it if you dont have a friend to help. Also I forgot to tell you there are 5 bolts holding the x-fer case to the tranny.

-Steve

 

[project15]

just for future search's references, I found this about the transfer case removal for a 1g, should be the same for a 2g

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/transfer-print.html

 

[OSXer]

There is nothing to line up but dont play around with the shafts or anything, I like to put things back together just like I took them a part.

My understanding is that it's a good idea to mark the drive shaft in order to keep it lined up when you reinsert it back into the transfter case. That's based on my experience with removing it according to VFAQ procedure.

Just be careful when it pops off the outputshaft because its going to be alot heavier than you think. Trust me a x-fer case to the chest really hurts so you may want to put a jack under it or something to hold it if you dont have a friend to help.

FWIW, I didn't think it was all that heavy, especially not heavy enough to require a jack when I've taken mine off. There are the 5 bolts as mentioned, but there are also a couple of studs. So, once the last bolt comes off you don't have to worry about it falling on you - just make sure the car is high enough, get under there, and slide it off.

 

[travislaw]

There is no gasket. I got leak after leak after leak, until I got the High Temp Red Gasket maker. That stuff works awesome. No more leaks. Make sure you put the gasket masker on the bolt holes too. You want some gasket maker to get on the bolts to help seal the threads. Actually what worked best for me was to use the FelPro cork gasket too. Stick gasket maker on one side, stick the cork gasket on, put gasket maker on the other side and then bolt it back on. Just make sure you follow the directions. It tells you not to crank to bolts all the way down for a couple of hours. Finger tighten first, let the gasket maker set some, then crank it down. Also use Brake Cleaner to make sure the engine and oil pan parts that will be touching the gasket maker are super clean.

 

[xcelr8n]

You will need a basic socket set. It is a good idea to have a simple arsinal anyway. 8mm-20mm will do nearly everything you need.

Except take the tires off, also the drain for TC is 24mm I believe, but it's been a while since I was AWD...

 

[1glaserturbo]

Haha, why are you removing the transfer case to get to the oil pan?

That's an extra couple minutes that you DON'T need to waste. Just get an extra long extension for the socket wrench and you'll be fine. Also, I am NOT using any sort of oil pan gasket, except for gasket eliminator. You'll find that by using the gasket it doesn't seal all to well and will keep leaking.

While your at it, check the rim around the oil pan and make sure it is completely flat so you don't have any potential spots for future leaks. Good luck!




Chris

 

[travislaw]

Lawl, why are you removing the transfer case to get to the oil pan?

You'll find that by using the gasket it doesn't seal all to well and will keep leaking.

Chris

It will seal if you put gasket maker on both sides of the gasket as added insurance. I know from personal experience. Since it took me 3 tries to finally get all the leaks to stop and that was the only way that they would.

 

[1glaserturbo]

It will seal if you put gasket maker on both sides of the gasket as added insurance. I know from personal experience. Since it took me 3 tries to finally get all the leaks to stop and that was the only way that they would.

No leaks yet

 

[Dream On]

Everybody is making this harder than it should be. You don't have to remove the driveshaft, or even drain the T-case fluid. Here's what I do: Use some wire to hold the driveshaft in place. Remove the 5 transfer case bolts, and let the transfer case down slowly, and leave the end where the driveshaft goes in up. Set it (transfer case) up against a wall or something to keep it vertical, otherwise fluid will come out. The driveshaft just slips right on the transfer case, you'll see when you take it off. This should shorten the time considerably.

 

[1glaserturbo]

Like I said, he does NOT need to remove the transfer case to remove the oil pan. End of story...