Fixing A/C on 2g with 6bolt swap

[IIv SHaDoW vII]

I am about to purchase a 2g with a 6 bolt swap and the guy has informed me that he has removed the a/c compressor but it will come with the car. He also stated that everything else in the A/C system is still in tact.. the only thing that was removed was the compressor..

I searched on this subject and found a little bit of info about the A/C system. What do I really need to replace? I saw threads about replacing a drier and other things.
Where can I buy these parts and how easy are they to replace myself?
Also, what steps do I need to take to get the A/C back to a good working state?

I read that the seals in the compressor will go bad if it sits too long. I also read that there are specific things that need to be done when messing with the A/C system (Flush lines, recharge, etc). I'd like a walkthrough on how to do all of this.

Lastly, how easy is it to reinstall the compressor with the engine still in the car?
Maybe I should ask how easy it is to fix all these issues with the A/C in general.

Thanks.

 

[shorty10011010]

I can tell you right now that its going to be difficult to install the A/C back into that car with the compressor out. You practically have to lift the engine a good 6-9 inches up to get the compressor back in there with all the bolts. And yes you will need to get the drier replaced. You will need to put the system under vacuum before you refill though, then you may refill it. You also need to check and see if the clutch on the compressor is still operational.

 

[LiquidX]

Your best option is to take it to an AC shop to re install. Vacuum needs pulled, proper oil amount needs filled in both drier and compressor. Expansion valve would be good to replace as well.

For mine and my buddies 1g, neither needed engine lifting or unbolting manifolds. You'll likely need to un bolt the brake resivoir and move the fuel return line. We did not have the pulley bracket in at the time of removal though.

 

[romeen]

Honestly, removing/replacing AC parts on a 6 bolt in a 2G with motor in the car is a PITA. Some of it gets accessed from the top after removing other things out of the way. Some parts are best accessed from underneath the car. You can use a jack with a block of wood under the oil pan to raise and lower that side of the motor (dirver's side motor mount removed of course) to make access easier for certain parts.

 

[LiquidX]

As I mentioned, I didn't have to move anything being on a 6 bolt swap.

 

[romeen]

As I mentioned, I didn't have to move anything being on a 6 bolt swap.

I'm glad you mentioned that Scott.

I was forgetting that due to my Cyclone IM I had to relocate the coil pack to the space in between the strut tower and IM. Right under the relocated coil pack is the actuator for the Cyclone IM. Additionally, I have rigid fuel line running from rail to AFPR which is mounted right beside the brake MC reservoir. So the inaccessibility of AC from the top with my setup is atypical and most won't have an issue.

So OP, Scott is right. Don't let my previous post discourage you.

Please excuse a quick vent but this topic made me remember something I have come to dread doing. Reinstalling the damn AC tensioner pulley/bracket after doing a t-belt. That seems to take me more time (and causes more aggravation) than installing and tensioning the t-belt. OK, I'll stop now.

 

[LiquidX]

It will still be difficult to do since it takes some precision rotating of the compressor body to get it out, let alone drop one in. You'll likely want to remove the tensioner if it's not already removed and having a stock (assuming) intake manifold may make it harder as well since it sits differently than the Evo3 manifold I have.

I would still consider taking it to an AC shop to have them replace and install everything properly.

 

[Don Lang]

I did a 6bolt swap and had to grind the factory intake manifold support bracket for the compresser to fit. I would hook it all up with new green o-rings on ALL hose connections, take it to a shop have them evacuate it. If it holds vacume fill it, if not, pay them to find the leaks. OR I've also filled my system with an air compresser and used soapy water in a spray bottle to find leaks. Might save time and cash to try to make sure its leak free before going to the shop.