Fist timing belt job: Conflicting info.

[DSMmonster123]

First time doing a timing belt job. everything looks good and tension "looks good" by eye.
Heres my problem. I'm reading that if you can pull and reinstall the grenade pin that the tensioner should be at the bottom of the spec. However when I measure the tensioner gap with a feeler guage and calipers I'm getting .123" and I can't get a .150" dirll bit into the gap.

Should I rely on the specs in the VFAQ .150"-.180"? Or should I go by the grenade pin method? I'd rather have it tighter than too loose. Its going to rain today so I have some time to plan this out before I touch it again.

 

[95gstnate]

I also had the same confusion when i did my first timing belt job on a 4g63. I kept on reading about both methods and went with the gernade pin method and it has worked well for me so far. All my timing marks line up good and the motor runs great.

 

[Boostdriven]

All you have to do is install the tensioner with the grenade pin in place, use the offset pulley on the tensioner arm to preload tension on the belt then tighten up the pulley bolt. Once you do that then pull the grenade pin out. If you had the right amount of preload on the belt before you pulled the pin then the tensioner rod will pretty much stay where it was before you pulled the pin and you almost should be able to stick the pin back in to the tensioner holes, if not the holes should still almost line up.

My last timing belt job I did I actually preloaded the tension on a belt with the pulley a bit much so when I pulled the grenade pin out the tensioner rod got pushed in a bit deeper. Car has over 20k on it now without any issues.

 

[Dsmkauai]

I use the timing kit tools to get everything set, then go off the pin. Haven't had any issues doing it that way and the belt always feels just right after.

 

[BoostedBeaver]

I was able to use both methods here in my job.

I know that when measuring the gap with the drill bit you need to insure the body of the bit is flat on the body of the tensioner. I am not sure why yours is not checking out but the measurements are in the FSM as well so I would follow them. The grenade pin gets you close but the measurements where engineered for the motor and are the specifications given by Mitsu.

I'd rather have it tighter than too loose.

Having the belt to tight could be just as catostrophic in the long run. The timming belt is connected to your oil pump. If the belt is too tight it will cause stress and eventually failure of the attached components.

Robert

 

[DSMmonster123]

That was what I was thinking, just go with the specs in the book to be safe.

I can get the drill bit in on an angle like the first few pics. But when I measure it with the feelers I do it flat. Maybe my tensioner arm has a divot worn into it?

my pin moves in and out without resistance, the first time I tensioned it I could get the pin in but it had resistance so I retightened it. The first time the gap was within spec. I guess I'll re-tension it to the book specs.

From the previous posts it looks like theres quite a bit of room for error. Just as long as it's not over tight. but I'd rather it be too tight than too loose the first time I fire it up. I can always fix too tight, bent valves are a diffrent story.

To be safe I'll redo mine again to the bottom spec, that is if it ever stops raining!

thanks all!