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AlaskanDsm

15+ Year Contributor
1,124
17
Oct 21, 2007
North Pole, Alaska
well I got my serial cable from Honk Kong today and got everything hooked up and working... took the car for a first time 3rd gear pull and turned around and made a second gear pull and a third gear pull. Please look at them and tell me what you guys think... My first pull is kinda of bothering me but then the second 3rd gear pull... looks totally different :confused:.


Pictures uploaded below.
 

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Looks like your maxing out your injectors in that first one.

And wowzers (Second log), what nice knockers haha. Up close to 40 counts of knock? If im not mistaken. You have phantom knock? Is the car bucking real hard?
 
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No bucking that I noticed. If anything the first pull felt really weak. The second one felt much stronger high is how it normally feels. The second log shows a 2nd gear pull followed by the second 3rd gear pull. I don't know hats with this car. Making me uneasy that's for sure. Also I am running stock boost 9 lbs on an evo 3.
 
What you should do is a 3rd gear pull to redline. But like i said thats odd to be hitting close to 40 degrees knock at only 9 psi unless your timing is advanced way to much. Im going to take a educated guess and say its probably phantom knock. Wouldn't 40 counts kill your engine?
 
Ok here are my mods:
Evo 3 16G ported wastegate area with 34MM flapper
stock boost, no MBC
2G exhaust manifold
2G 02 housing
3" catback exhaust
boost gauge
ARP head studs
BS elimination
3MM lifters
snorkel cut off stock intake
new spark plugs (NGK BRP6ES .030 gap)
new 95 amp alternator



Another thing that concerns me is that when I floor it, the TPS shows only 70-72% WOT. I had it on the floor and floor mat wasn't in the way. Also, the TPS shows a variance of 3.6-6 % open when my foot is off the pedal even after my attempts to adjust it.
I felt a huge difference in the way it pulled the first time from the second. The first time felt like I had a huge power loss and didn't accelerate at all like it usually does. The second time pulled hard like usual.

I am using MMCD 1.8 as my logger on a palm m125. If you have a recommendation like an older version of MMCD or one of the other freewares, let me know.

KevinBoosted:
I would love to have someone look at my car with me. Boostedinaz was going to help me take a look at a few things next Saturday including an oil leak that is crippling me haha. But I wouldn't mind the extra assistance in getting the tuning corrected or figuring out what is causing my car to phantom knock or whatever it is. It can't hurt to have multiple people assisting in the workings of DSMs. I have never had the car tuned but wouldn't think I need to if I am mostly stock.

I think that this thread should probably be moved to the tuning forum. I have questions and should go into the correct thread.

Also, Any feedback on what I can do to help eliminate any of the issues that you can see in the logs would be GREAT!!!
 
Sometimes all you have to do it tighten up your cable that is on the intake manifold. Just have someone sit in the car and push the pedal down 100% then go under the hood and check to see if the throttle body can open up more, then adjust as necessary by moving the slider back by loosing up the 2 bolts holding it down. If you find that the throttle body is all the way open then try to adjust your tps, via vfaq.

As far as the tune, I would get it tuned. That much knock is horrible if it is real knock. Next mod - Get a wideband to see if your running rich or lean. o2's will give you a hint, but if you want to tune, get a wideband.
 
can't you mean?

Anyways the CSV file type can be opened by spreadsheet applications like excel. You might get away with microsoft works or even open office from www.openoffice.org. I only know for sure Excel works.


Also, I will have to attempt to adjust the throttle cable, is that a possibility as to why it reads so badly? Also, how do you tune our cars when my ECU is non-eprom?
 
You should put your log sheet on your screen and screen print it to paint then put it up here!

I guess I will have to try to do so. It is just hard to have all the data I want in the print screen. I'll try.

Ok here are the snapshots... if anyone knows how to get rid of the annoying characters, That would be fantasic!!

1st pull (3rd gear)
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2nd pull (2nd gear)
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3rd quick pull (3rd gear) was going to fast to keep going
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Thanks for everything guys and I really appreciate it. All suggestions and comments are welcome. I need to know what to do here.
 

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#124 - #145 pulling timing like crazy.....40 counts of knock??? Injectors not putting out correctly in high rpms also?? Check for boost leaks.... your numbers are all over the place... Also another thing i noticed....does it say 20deg coolant temp?? wtf?? bad coolant sensor??
 
i think you should recheck ## base timing first and verify it with link.... then go for the pulls. 40 degree of knock is big shit.
 
Is it possible it is phantom knock? My car sounds and runs just fine.... except for that first pull, it did not run right at all... then it ran just fine the 2nd time. Here is an example of why I don't know what to do. I was sitting in a parking lot playing with the palm last night and when I was logging, I punch the gas real quick a couple times to rev the engine, and it picked up 28 counts of knock.... in neutral, and no boost. WTF. A BLT is deffinetly needed, I haven't done one in a while, just don't have any means to pump air except for one of those $11 walmart 12v roadside pumps....

How do I check for my base timing to be correct? Do I need a timing light or can I verify it in the logger?

I think something weird is going on with that coolant temp read... it was like 20 through everything.... Yesterday it was working fine though.

Thanks for the responses. I really appreciate it.
 
Tonight, I am going to attempt to do a BLT test. I only have one of those 12V road side pumps. I'm going to start at the TB and work back. Soapy water, Here I come :D! I will see what I find and post back.
 
in one of my first log posts i was hiting 46+ counts of knock, boost leaks, boost leaks. i fix all the ones that i found and wow big difference i was able to turn my boost back up a bit. that maf sensor doesn't like any leaks after her or she will just run like crap.

what type of fuel are you running?

LunarEclips has a good point, your coolant temp is way to low. if that is the problem she more then likely is running pig rich and thats were the knock is coming from, i would test that sensor out as well.
 
91 Octane. I know I had a couple of small leaks in the past and fixed the larger ones but the smaller ones may have gotten a lot worse. I also don't know what is up with that sensor but I will look into that as well.

So I did a tea at the tb and :( I only could build 2 psi!!! Lookin into a tb rebuild at the moment. Also found a couple of smaller leaks I need to get clamps for as well as get a new o-ring for my Biss screw.
 
I noticed you are running a 16g, have you done any of the fuel mods.? If they haven't I would leave the boost at wastegate pressure. I would also check the coolant temp. sensor, its wiring connection, and the wiring itself. If it was not working then all of a sudden started working there may be a problem. and definitly set the TPS properly The knock when you free rev. is phantom knock. Here is some links. TPS Adjustment , http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html (I know it says No start but coolant temp sensor check is in there).
 
I have not done any of the fuel mod yet. I haven't run anything other than stock wastegate boost since I bought the new turbo. Old turn went bad so I just upgraded. Thanks for the links too. I know I have some work to doto get everything running correctly. Starting with that rebuild of the tb.
 
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