ECMlink First post! ECU question

[pauleyman]

Yes

That doesn't exactly work.
What exactly did you do?

 

[DP_52]

That doesn't exactly work.
What exactly did you do?

installed the AEM wideband AFR. Used the O2 sensor location on the downpipe?

I'm guessing that's going to cause problems... I can swap it back.

 

[pauleyman]

installed the AEM wideband AFR. Used the O2 sensor location on the downpipe?

I'm guessing that's going to cause problems... I can swap it back.

are you saying you just plugged a wideband into the stock wiring? Or you took out the stock o2 and installed a gauge with sensor?

 

[DP_52]

are you saying you just plugged a wideband into the stock wiring? Or you took out the stock o2 and installed a gauge with sensor?

Took out stock o2 sensor and wired the AFR in where the old AFR was

 

[pauleyman]

Took out stock o2 sensor and wired the AFR in where the old AFR was

Thats not how this works.

 

[DP_52]

... Well fixed it.

O2 sensor is installed, double checked everything in the engine bay.

Only CEL is the 1104 (turbo wastegate). So I changed the lines to the stock boost controller.

Previous owner had a manual apexi boost controller in the glovebox along with some other thing.

Car idles and runs a lot better now.

However, I did notice an oil leak from the oil pan gasket so that's added to the list.

 

[DP_52]

Thats not how this works.

Car runs and drives alot better now.

It doesn't want to rev past 3k rpms

 

[pauleyman]

Car runs and drives alot better now.

It doesn't want to rev past 3k rpms

You want to revise and tell us what's in the car now? Not revving past 3k its not running right. What parts are on the car now? Ecu, Injectors, does it have a cat? Did you change tbelt etc? Whats been done and/or checked?

 

[DP_52]

You want to revise and tell us what's in the car now? Not revving past 3k its not running right. What parts are on the car now? Ecu, Injectors, does it have a cat? Did you change tbelt etc? Whats been done and/or checked?

Stock injectors, stock ECU, I’ll check to see if it has a cat tomorrow. Stock boost controller, i tried to swap everything back to stock.

I haven't touched the timing belt yet.

All the wiring is good, ECU is good, car runs fine i can post a video tomorrow.

I replaced the spark plugs, PTU, MAF, CAS, oil pan gasket, fuel pump, and CPS. Also deleted the cruise control so the cable only goes from the pedal to the TB.

Only aftermarket parts that are still on the car is the FP turbo manifold, greddy intercooler and BOV, AEM adjustable cam gears. I think everything else is still stock without opening it up. The electronic boost controller in the glove box is disconnected.

Last time the CEL came on it said P1104 waste gate solenoid.

I think thats everything

 

[chrysler kid]

The cel for wastegate solenoid is only on because the solenoid is probably not plugged in to the harness, the ecu just senses the resistance in the harness and if the solenoid isn’t plugged in then it triggers the check engine light

The sensor is mounted to the passengers side frame rail under the mass air flow sensor under where the factory coolant over flow would be, or just on the side of the frame rail under the mass air flow sensor.

First diagnosis should be to see if you have any boost leaks with a boost leak test or smoke test.

Thread is 3 pages, are you on the dsmlink ecu or a black box ecu?

 

[DP_52]

The cel for wastegate solenoid is only on because the solenoid is probably not plugged in to the harness, the ecu just senses the resistance in the harness and if the solenoid isn’t plugged in then it triggers the check engine light

The sensor is mounted to the passengers side frame rail under the mass air flow sensor under where the factory coolant over flow would be, or just on the side of the frame rail under the mass air flow sensor.

First diagnosis should be to see if you have any boost leaks with a boost leak test or smoke test.

Thread is 3 pages, are you on the dsmlink ecu or a black box ecu?

Stock ECU. I can’t get the car to start with the ECMLink one. I plugged it in and the previous owner had some wild settings to say the least.

So, car runs the tachometer doesn’t work and it will not rev past 3k rpms.

That sensor is plugged in, I’ve tried my best to make everything as stock as possible…

 

[pauleyman]

We need to get back to basics here. As we are waiting 2 weeks to post its hard to follow this trail.
Some basics need to be known
Check mechanical timing?
Has this car ever run right in your possession? If yes what changed?
Has the car been sitting?
Is every sensor working? A datalogger would help.

 

[DP_52]

We need to get back to basics here. As we are waiting 2 weeks to post its hard to follow this trail.
Some basics need to be known
Check mechanical timing?
Has this car ever run right in your possession? If yes what changed?
Has the car been sitting?
Is every sensor working? A datalogger would help.

Mechanical timing is good. Car did sit for awhile before I bought it no clue how long though.

And honestly I’m not sure.

When I bought the car it wouldn’t start, I swapped the plugs and cleared the cylinders and it fired up. I honestly don’t remember if it revved past 3k then.

As for the sensors, CAS, CPS, MAF, PTU are all new. I did start tracing wires to see if there’s any shorts. And on some of the connectors the wires are exposed.

Like this was the ignition coil connector

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[pauleyman]

I would recommend you get a datalogger and see what things are doing. All of those sensors being new doesn't mean anything.

What's up with all the orange crap on the connector? Plenty of damage that needs to be fixed. One of the things in diagnosis is fix the obvious broken stuff. You don't know what's causing the problems but certainly its not helping.

 

[DP_52]

I would recommend you get a datalogger and see what things are doing. All of those sensors being new doesnt mean anything. Whats up with all the orange crap on the connector? Plenty of damage that needs to be fixed. One of the things in diagnosis is fix the obvious broken stuff. You dont know what's causing the problems but certainly its not helping.

Honestly I’m not sure what the orange crap is. Maybe dirt that’s built up. You have a link for a datalogger you’d recommend

 

[pauleyman]

I use a Bluetooth dongle and torque pro on my phone. Good enough for diagnostics.

 

[DP_52]

I use a Bluetooth dongle and torque pro on my phone. Good enough for diagnostics.

What live data do you want to see?

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What live data do you want to see?

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Those are the active codes

 

[pauleyman]

I cant remember if any of those code do much. Why not just log whatever you can. Look for any problem areas.

 

[DP_52]

I cant remember if any of those code do much. Why not just log whatever you can. Look for any problem areas.

So with one app, it says the car is idling at 1500rpm and when it rev it, it goes up to 6/7k.

The aftermarket tach reads 900rpm at idle and only goes up to 3k

It says there’s -7PSI of boost from the app…

Something isn’t reading correctly

So with one app, it says the car is idling at 1500rpm and when it rev it, it goes up to 6/7k.

The aftermarket tach reads 900rpm at idle and only goes up to 3k

It says there’s -7PSI of boost from the app…

Something isn’t reading correctly

I also cleaned the wiring harness ground and the CELs have all cleared or the one for the MAF has

 

[pauleyman]

So with one app, it says the car is idling at 1500rpm and when it rev it, it goes up to 6/7k.

The aftermarket tach reads 900rpm at idle and only goes up to 3k

It says there’s -7PSI of boost from the app…

Something isn’t reading correctly

Well what does the stock tach say? You should have mentioned aftermarket tach. You couldnt tell motor was actually at 6 or 7k? Tach is likely hooked up wrong.

 

[DP_52]

Well what does the stock tach say? You should have mentioned aftermarket tach. You couldnt tell motor was actually at 6 or 7k? Tach is likely hooked up wrong.

The stock one doesn’t work…

Sorry should have been more specific, in the data log the car revs up to 6/7k not the after market tach.

I wired it directly to the back of the ignition coils for the rpm signal and double checked it.

 

[pauleyman]

The stock one doesn’t work…

Sorry should have been more specific, in the data log the car revs up to 6/7k not the after market tach.

I wired it directly to the back of the ignition coils for the rpm signal and double checked it.

Dsms use a waste spark ignition and fire twice. You are likely reading exactly half what it really is.

Original question still stands. Do you not know what 6k sounds like?
Henceforth please try and provide ALL pertinent information, ALL Parts that are on the car etc. We could've saved a lot of time here.

 

[DP_52]

Original question still stands. Do you not know what 6k sounds like?
Henceforth please try and provide ALL pertinent information, ALL Parts that are on the car etc. We could've saved a lot of time here.

I do, I can post a video but it doesn’t sound like it’s going to 6k.

There’s only a few aftermarket parts on the car currently. I’ve essentially make everything stock that was aftermarket.

Is there somewhere to wire an aftermarket tach that would be an accurate reading?

 

[TuskeeTuner]

Try something simple like getting the car to idle until the coolant temp gets to about 190-200F. The O2 voltage should cycle between between 0.2-0.8 volts and ECU should go into CLOSED LOOP mode. Hopefully the car will idle between 750-900 RPM. Log the coolant temp, timing, O2 voltage, fuel trims, and closed loop. Observe what you see and maybe make some notes. That might help you focus in on one thing at a time.
You can FIX this car with the info and resources on this web site. I learned many years ago how to engine swap a car just from reading this web site and a Haynes manual.

Dsms use a waste spark ignition and fire twice. You are likely reading exactly half what it really is.

If he's only reading off of one transistor trigger output, you're right.
Wasted spark triggers the spark plug every revolution.

Original question still stands. Do you not know what 6k sounds like?
Henceforth please try and provide ALL pertinent information, ALL Parts that are on the car etc. We could've saved a lot of time here.

The stock one doesn’t work…

Do you have the original gauge cluster in the car? The tachometer uses the power transistor's trigger outputs to drive the tach needle. There are wiring diagram manuals on this site. They're kinda' hard to find and a little time consuming to dig up, but they're here and cost nothing. Haynes and Chilton's manuals are available, FSM is available, and many other sources with cleaned up info' are available. You never have to "guess" at what you're doing or what's going on.

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Here's the wiring diagram for the 2G ignition system. Go to page 44 and take a look so you can get the tachometer working. That's a KEY PIECE of information.

Sorry should have been more specific, in the data log the car revs up to 6/7k not the after market tach.

I wired it directly to the back of the ignition coils for the rpm signal and double checked it.

I do, I can post a video but it doesn’t sound like it’s going to 6k.

There’s only a few aftermarket parts on the car currently. I’ve essentially make everything stock that was aftermarket.

Is there somewhere to wire an aftermarket tach that would be an accurate reading?

Have you tried using a timing light to verify base ignition timing? You can put the timing light on a spark plug wire from each coil just to see if the timing light illuminates.

So with one app, it says the car is idling at 1500rpm and when it rev it, it goes up to 6/7k.

A 1500 RPM idle? Is that cold idle right after starting or after it's up to temp?

The aftermarket tach reads 900rpm at idle and only goes up to 3k

Yeah like one of the other members have said, you might only be reading one of the trigger events.

It says there’s -7PSI of boost from the app…

Something isn’t reading correctly


I also cleaned the wiring harness ground and the CELs have all cleared or the one for the MAF has

 

[DP_52]

Dsms use a waste spark ignition and fire twice. You are likely reading exactly half what it really is.

Original question still stands. Do you not know what 6k sounds like?
Henceforth please try and provide ALL pertinent information, ALL Parts that are on the car etc. We could've saved a lot of time here.

Ok! So I tapped into the white wire on the PTU to connect the aftermarket tach! And it’s reading the same as the data logger. My guess is the tach on the dash went out…

Try something simple like getting the car to idle until the coolant temp gets to about 190-200F. The O2 voltage should cycle between between 0.2-0.8 volts and ECU should go into CLOSED LOOP mode. Hopefully the car will idle between 750-900 RPM. Log the coolant temp, timing, O2 voltage, fuel trims, and closed loop. Observe what you see and maybe make some notes. That might help you focus in on one thing at a time.
You can FIX this car with the info and resources on this web site. I learned many years ago how to engine swap a car just from reading this web site and a Haynes manual.


If he's only reading off of one transistor trigger output, you're right.
Wasted spark triggers the spark plug every revolution.



Do you have the original gauge cluster in the car? The tachometer uses the power transistor's trigger outputs to drive the tach needle. There are wiring diagram manuals on this site. They're kinda' hard to find and a little time consuming to dig up, but they're here and cost nothing. Haynes and Chilton's manuals are available, FSM is available, and many other sources with cleaned up info' are available. You never have to "guess" at what you're doing or what's going on.

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Here's the wiring diagram for the 2G ignition system. Go to page 44 and take a look so you can get the tachometer working. That's a KEY PIECE of information.



Have you tried using a timing light to verify base ignition timing? You can put the timing light on a spark plug wire from each coil just to see if the timing light illuminates.


A 1500 RPM idle? Is that cold idle right after starting or after it's up to temp?

Yeah like one of the other members have said, you might only be reading one of the trigger events.

It’s right after start up. I’ve never had a car idle that high… fixed the aftermarket tach issue and it was reading wrong.

I’ll let the car idle until it’s warmed up and see if it drops.

I haven’t used a timing light before. And to be honest I’ve found conflicting info that you don’t need to do timing vs you do.

Do you have a link for how to check/set base timing?

I’ll log those things you said and post them.

Try something simple like getting the car to idle until the coolant temp gets to about 190-200F. The O2 voltage should cycle between between 0.2-0.8 volts and ECU should go into CLOSED LOOP mode. Hopefully the car will idle between 750-900 RPM. Log the coolant temp, timing, O2 voltage, fuel trims, and closed loop. Observe what you see and maybe make some notes. That might help you focus in on one thing at a time.
You can FIX this car with the info and resources on this web site. I learned many years ago how to engine swap a car just from reading this web site and a Haynes manual.


If he's only reading off of one transistor trigger output, you're right.
Wasted spark triggers the spark plug every revolution.



Do you have the original gauge cluster in the car? The tachometer uses the power transistor's trigger outputs to drive the tach needle. There are wiring diagram manuals on this site. They're kinda' hard to find and a little time consuming to dig up, but they're here and cost nothing. Haynes and Chilton's manuals are available, FSM is available, and many other sources with cleaned up info' are available. You never have to "guess" at what you're doing or what's going on.

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Here's the wiring diagram for the 2G ignition system. Go to page 44 and take a look so you can get the tachometer working. That's a KEY PIECE of information.



Have you tried using a timing light to verify base ignition timing? You can put the timing light on a spark plug wire from each coil just to see if the timing light illuminates.


A 1500 RPM idle? Is that cold idle right after starting or after it's up to temp?

Yeah like one of the other members have said, you might only be reading one of the trigger events.

Well looks like the timing is way off…..

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After more research, I adjusted the idle screw under the hood. Now the car is idling around 900 at temp. Aftermarket gauge is reading correctly.

The only CEL is the MAF ground malfunction P1104.

From what I can tell from searching online all the other readings are normal?