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First dyno results

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Nofear20

15+ Year Contributor
345
0
Aug 9, 2007
Yakima, Washington
285whp with over 300lbs of tq spiking at 24 psi dropping off to 22. Mods are in my profile. Does this seem a bit low or am I just expecting too much? I thought I'd reach 300. Looking around at other peoples dynosheets with the same mods as me or even less mods and they all seem to dyno better.. :hmm:
 
Alright guys heres yet another log... this time in V3...

Is the Boost Est. your 3.5 map ?
Because on the Dyno it looks like you held 22psi to 6-7k...
And in that log you drop from 23psi at 5k to 16psi @ 7k
 
Is the Boost Est. your 3.5 map ?
Because on the Dyno it looks like you held 22psi to 6-7k...
And in that log you drop from 23psi at 5k to 16psi @ 7k


Nah the it should be displayed as aem35bar or something.. you probably need to go into the displayed values and select it
 
I think you have to go to the displayed values and select my map sensor to see it...v3 is different
 
Since you're running a 6-bolt I'm assuming you must have a 1G CAS, so you must have the base timing off quite a bit (too advanced) to have to pull that much timing; the stock 2G timing map is pretty conservative as it is and you're running less compression since you have a 6-bolt. That is putting a lot of heat in your exhaust manifold and turbo. I bet at 1/2 throttle for a few seconds and that turbo is bright red.

I don't think your dyno numbers are really that bad, considering the weird tune and having the lower compression than a stock 2g, and on stock cams.
 
Since you're running a 6-bolt I'm assuming you must have a 1G CAS, so you must have the base timing off quite a bit (too advanced) to have to pull that much timing; the stock 2G timing map is pretty conservative as it is and you're running less compression since you have a 6-bolt. That is putting a lot of heat in your exhaust manifold and turbo. I bet at 1/2 throttle for a few seconds and that turbo is bright red.

I don't think your dyno numbers are really that bad, considering the weird tune and having the lower compression than a stock 2g, and on stock cams.

Since I didn't do the timing job (English Racing did that as well) I couldn't tell you. I'll ask about the base timing though. Thanks for bringing that up.
 
You guys are funny.

This is straight pump gas no meth or race gas (meth or race gas worth 75+hp) The car cant take any more timing any ware with out knock. I have the DJ WB which was reading about .5 leaner then his in car WB. The Dyno WB always shows a small lean spot on spool up. I was just getting the reading form the tail pipe.

The most I have ever seen a EVOIII 16g do on straight pump is about 330whp. And 380-400whp on E85, Race gas or Meth injection.

This car is still running stock cams with a stock 1g bottom end (7.8:1 comp) I don't totally remember but I think he also has a Apex DP which is kinda small from the O2 housing to the Flex section. (Could be worth 5-10hp. I have also found the blow through MAFT worth close to 10hp VS a 2G MAF at the 400whp mark.

Also this car is running a 1g cam sensor so timing # in the log are not a prefect match either. I do this on purpose on v2 link so I have a tunable timing curve. With the new V3 which I love I do sink the timing and build one of our EVO style timing maps.

I was thinking the car should do right around 300whp my self.

I would like to see some links to some other 300+ WHP EVOIII 16g cars with stock cams and 7.8:1 comp. So I can try and pick there mods apart and see what the difference is.
 
Well I did a few min of digging on here and there is not much for real data. Lots of guessing and saying, but no dyno sheets. In my book if there is no sheet its hard to believe.

The dyno subject is a very touchy one with me. Seems all other dynos MD and DD can read what ever the oprator wants them to. If they are set up right then the DD and MD should read lower then a DJ, But it seems very few are.

Our 9.6@144 3065 1g makes 620whp on a DJ and made 667 whp on a local a DD which was supposed to read 10-15% lower the a DJ WTF.

Also his car is very constant at that # and is the same tune that he left with. Alot of people will crank the tune for a glory pull to get a # and then turn it down.


Here is one link with a bunch of guessing that I found.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...ur-hand-if-you-have-made-over-300-hp-16g.html
 
Thanks for the reply Lucas. I figured you had the timing advanced as much as possible, which is why I wasn't about to go fiddling with it... but is this statement true?

"
I'm sure your Tuner lowered your timing for a reason, but I've heard you shouldn't run less than 12 degrees without forged pistons because of the extra heat produced."
 
The lower the timing you run the hotter the Egt's are. The timing is about 4-5deg higher then what the link shows. I can not add any more timing any ware in the map with out picking up timing pull. I did close to 30runs on your car trying to get as much as I could and not have it to much on the edge. I feel I could get close to 10-15hp more but the car could be inconstant picking up knock on some pulls and hotter days.

The lower looking WOT timing would not effect your low RPM cruse timing. So our cruse cooling problem is not because of the timing. That is why I wanted you to add a few deg in at the 3k and under to see if it might help the car run a little cooler.
 
I still need to do that. BTW I changed the thermostat yesterday... it made no change in temps at all.. will sit around 216 still.. I'll try the timing thing and email you rather than keep going back and forth on here. THanks
 
"Ive never dynoed, but my car traps enough to be making 350chp, at 17psi on a china gt on E85" 13.98 @ 102.2 HAHAHAHA wow buddy...

I would not be discouraged by those numbers... They are damn close or even higher than evos are putting down stock..
 
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