dyno results

[gibby]

whats up.. i went and dyno'd the dsm yesterday. i only have a few mods. UPPER and lower intercooler pipes, intake and and turbo xs hrfl bov. i ended up with 169.2 hp @5500 and 192.9 ft/lbs @ 4000. two questions... Is this decent for a faily non moded car in 100 degree weather and 24% humidity?? i am not at all disapointed i just want to know if that sounds right. second the graph is choppy and was told it may be ignition or clutch any ideas.. and if so who has the best coils wires and plugs. i think im going with the act 2100 clutch but am open to all suggestions.

 

[HALO1]

In my experience, HP and torque should be much closer than they are. Could be restrictive exhaust piping limiting maximum power, but even then...I think your HP is low.

Edit: 210 stock crank HP does NOT equal 160 wheel hp. with your mods, I would estimate 190 whp.

 

[gibby]

In my experience, HP and torque should be much closer than they are. Could be restrictive exhaust piping limiting maximum power, but even then...I think your HP is low.

Edit: 210 stock crank HP does NOT equal 160 wheel hp. with your mods, I would estimate 190 whp.

i do run super rich so she does loose horse power there.. a 2.5 inch o2 housing with a 2.5" downpipe and 3" catback are soon to come. i looked at the plugs and thats why my graph is very jumpy. those will get changed too soon.

 

[DSMNightmare]

In my experience, HP and torque should be much closer than they are. Could be restrictive exhaust piping limiting maximum power, but even then...I think your HP is low.

Edit: 210 stock crank HP does NOT equal 160 wheel hp. with your mods, I would estimate 190 whp.

210 on a FWD 5 speed is about 175 to the wheels so gibby your making about 204 to the crank. Given the heat and humidity your numbers could suffer. My torque when I dyno'ed was higher than my hp but I don't remember by how much exactly and I don't have my dyno sheet right in front of me to figure it up. They were pretty close though.

 

[DCJ98GST]

Since you have been doing intake pipe work you may be leaking boost. Do a pressure check that would be the first thing I would check. Make sure all your seals are tight.

 

[sarge]

i think my car was making around 185whp when it had intake cone and exhaust

 

[gibby]

so any guesses as to why the grapgh would be so jumpy. it is not smooth like most dyno curves it jumps a bit. i was told electrical or clutch is this true. and what would the remedy be? besides a new clutch thats in the works. with 90,000 miles on my baby i think its about time for that to get replaced. timing belt and tensioner are done along with the water pump. plugs just got done 3,000 miles ago but they are jacked up already so im gonna change them. any suggestions on what type of plugs and wires and if the coil pack should be changed as well?

p.s. sarge if you sereved in the military then you know NCO's Run the Show Dont tell the COL.

 

[midnght]

Leave the coilpack if it is operating. This can give you an idea about plugs and wires. Look on more sites to see if you can find a better price.


The coil on plug thing is not a good idea for you so leave it alone for now. The stock recommendation is the BPR6ES plugs.

See if you can post your graph so we can tell you more about it.


A clutch does do some, but when it slips from wear it shouldn't make it "jumpy", it should just curve back down from the loss of power. From your numbers it sounds like more of a leak you need to find and fix.

 

[92awddsm]

I would say either you clutch or the car was spinning slightly on the dyno. I have seen it happen before when the car wasnt tightened down properly.

 

[midnght]

I have seen it happen before when the car wasnt tightened down properly.

That would scare the shit out of me if I saw my car slipping around during a 4th gear pull.

 

[gibby]

graph................

 

[gibby]

changed the plugs and wires this morning. i fouled just about all of them....well all of them.running rich sucks. the car runs alot better now. much smoother. its a temporary fix with the bosch plugs and ngk wires. it will work until i get the magnacores and the ngkbpr6es plugs.

 

[midnght]

Did your car buck or bog down on the run?

If it was your clutch shittong out on you you would def. feel it on the road. Does it ever just go up in RPM's and you feel like you aren't?

 

[Spanky7829]

Um just wondering, are u running something to controll your bov venting out instead of the intake. That will cause the richness. Just wondering.

 

[gibby]

no bucking or bogging down on the run. and i have a feeling its not the clutch. the change in plugs and wires made a huge difference on the road today. not as choppy. it felt like it stuttered und half trottle conditions but in wot it was hardly noticeable. i dont have anything that controls the bov venting into the atmosphere instead of back into the intake. i was thinking of getting the blow thru system but not sure yet.

 

[ho bag]

dont vent with out a maft!! no good can come of it and you will only run rich from it. besides a maft will let you tune some more hp out of it if your running rich

 

[gibby]

who sells MAFT so i can see what its all about

 

[gibby]

or should i just go with a bov that vents into the intake im guessing that this would be slightly cheaper

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Personally I'd just go with a BOV that vents back to the intake. Because you want to vent to the atmosphere is wrong reason to buy a MAFT.

 

[gibby]

what is the difference really for venting to the atmosphere and venting back into the intake. is there really a better of the two

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

There's a big difference. There are many threads on the subject of venting, check the FAQ section.

 

[gibby]

looks like i jacked s*@!$ up by getting the hrfl bov and the wrong intake. ill look at the price comparison for maft and then a new intake and bov and decide which way i wanna go. its funny how you ask a question about a dyno run and then find out you didnt research enough before you bought something.

 

[92awddsm]

If you go with the maft, it will end up costing you about $250-260 for the maft and gm maf. Then you will have to buy 2 silicon couplers(about $25 each) and cut a small section out of the uicp. Im sure you would spend close to the same on a new bov($150-250) and a new intake pipe($75-150). Dont hold me to those prices but that about what i have seen them advertised for.

 

[vertGST]

this is my dyno sheet when i was bone stock . all i had was a vented hks ssqv.

blue is 3rd gear pull and red is 4th gear pull. the dyno consitions were roughly the same as yours with more humidity and about 95-100 degrees. the plugs i was runnign were ngk bpr7es.