The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

first dsmlink log.. 20g and no power

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

zxdude

15+ Year Contributor
113
0
Jul 5, 2004
Merrill, Wisconsin
I just bought the car.. and did my first run... power is falling off around 4000 rpms... right when it should start screaming...

THE MODS: eagle/ wiseco shortblock 9:1 compression ratio
HKS 272 intake and exhaust cams crowler springs and retainers, 680cc injectors Hahn race fmic. DSMlink, greddy profec B. hahn super 20g, DSMlink... has all the supporting mods. GM MAFT (blow thru) HKS vented BOV



What the heck is going on...
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I can't even open the log for some reason. Says that it's an unsupported file version.
 
I changed my plugs and added magnacore wires. I found a boost leak at my bov... I did another run.. I'm getting more timing (15 degrees @7000 RPMS) now but power still drops off badly.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
You haven't done any tuning so of course it's going to feel slow. You need to get a wideband and/or a map sensor to calibrate your GM maf. You could also sell your GM unity and get a 2g or Evo maf since they are a lot easier to tune with and more accurate. I wouldnt even try to tune the full throttle settings until you get the maf calibrated correctly.
 
I agree. An uncalibrated gm maft made my rs60t w/ fp2x cams feel like garbage up high.

I upgraded my MAF and injectors at the same time and I had no fram of reference to tune. So, I swapped back to my stock injectors and dropped the boost and tuned my fuel trims to get my low flow inline. Swapped the bigger injectors in and dialed them in w/ my fuel trims. Then used a wideband to tune my WOT. Now 5K+ is a different book.
 
Wait. Your showing 98.5% idc at 6944rpms and logging over 40 lbs/min at that point. It should feel like over 400hp hereOMG :thumb: . What's your boost? I suspect another boost leak. . . An uncalibrated maf can read off. But likely not this off at this flow.
 
I think it's just rich as hell from the uncalibrated maf and lack of tuning.
 
( edited my last post) . . . he's loggin over 40 lb/min. It should FEEL pretty strong right? well, that depends on what he thinks is strongLOL . But, yea a pig rch tune will kill the upper revs. . .
 
I guess it should feel alright, 40 lbs/min feels pretty slow to me. But it's different for everybody.
 
Another thing I forgot to mention, since the maf calibration is off, the airflow reading isn't going to be correct.
 
ok update.. my low boost setting is 16 lbs.. ( what this run was done at) It actually looks like im running very lean... I pulled the bosch iridums and swaped them for .028 gapped bpr7es ngks the plugs looked completly white... no sign of det though. what needs to be adjusted on the maf-t ?? Thought it should just be zeroed out and the tuning done through DSMlink... ps how accurate is the a/f ratio in dsm link.. The wideband guage got stolen so I'm working on getting a new one. After the plugs and fixing the vac line going to the BOV it feels alot stronger ( I own a 2005 R1 ) so I like speed.. Its deff not where it should be though. I'll do another 3rd gear pull when I get up... should I use the high boost setting this time or do one of each. thanks for the help guys. I suspect another leak but I currently have no tester I can use.
 
also my idc... doesn't that seem high?? I though 90 % isn't good. are 680's too small for this setup?
 
ok update.. my low boost setting is 16 lbs.. ( what this run was done at)
No way in he!! you're running 40lbs/min on a stock crank at 16psi. You've got a leak that you've missed. Or your maft is WAY off.

It actually looks like im running very lean... I pulled the bosch iridums and swaped them for .028 gapped bpr7es ngks the plugs looked completly white... no sign of det though.
This is a common misconception. White plugs could simply mean that you're operating outside of your heat range. Not much more. Improper heat range OR overly advanced timing OR running lean all lead to a "white plug".

Check your base timing. Is it possible that you're intake cam is advanced one tooth or so? This would kill upper rpm power and yield white plugs because your base timing is greatly advanced.

what needs to be adjusted on the maf-t ?? Thought it should just be zeroed out and the tuning done through DSMlink...
Yes you zero out the maft. And do all your adjsutments in DSMLink. You first calibrate the maft via dsmlink using the *MAF compensation* window. Then you can go in and tweek the fuel for a leaner run.

To calibrate your maf you must have your injectors already dialed in (global and dead time). If you donot, then you don't know if your maf is off or your deadtime/global is incorrect. Note it may be easier to swap back to a stock maf (one in the drop down box of maf choices in the maf compensation window) then dial in the global and dead time for the bigger injectors. Other then that you have to swap back to stock injectors (you already know the global and dead time for stock injectors). After this, I calibrated my maf w/ my wideband:

MAFT Calibration By WBO2

Also you can calibrate VIA GM 3bar MAP sensor (it is claimed that this is much more accurate):

MAFT Calibration By Logged Boost

Other good info for dsmlink: DSMLink Support Wiki

ps how accurate is the a/f ratio in dsm link.. The wideband guage got stolen so I'm working on getting a new one.
Not very accurate unless you maft has been calibrated (especially since you're running blowthrough). Also you'll have to go to the props button for a/f ratio and change your injector and dead time there to what you're running to get it to read correctly (even to calibrate if you're going to use a wbo2).

After the plugs and fixing the vac line going to the BOV it feels alot stronger ( I own a 2005 R1 ) so I like speed.. Its deff not where it should be though. I'll do another 3rd gear pull when I get up... should I use the high boost setting this time or do one of each. thanks for the help guys. I suspect another leak but I currently have no tester I can use.
16ps and 272s is not worthy of a 20g. 25 psi and 272s are! Are you still recording 40+ lbs/min at 16psi? That's not likely true considering your mods. If you still are, then your MAFT is still WAY off in accuracy or you still have a boost leak.
 
also my idc... doesn't that seem high?? I though 90 % isn't good. are 680's too small for this setup?

your IDC is not high if you truely are running 40 lbs/min at a stock rich tune (9.4:1 up top). Adjusting your dsmlink settings correctly, i find that your a/f ration is showing 9.1X:1 or so. This is about right. Your IDC is off because your MAFT metering is WAY off or you ahve yet another boost leak AFTER the maft. Like at the intake manifold or throttlebody.
 
I was told by the previous owner that its running rich. but it was tuned already... this is the tune I'm currently using... I'll quick do another pull and see whats up.

update... Its not letting me upload my tune
 
I don't think you can upload a tune, you just have to change the settings manually. I could be wrong though.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top