FIRST DSM STREET BUILD!!!

[verified hick]

The one on the exit probe of the pump that fits up into the top of the pump hanger. Make sure the spacer holds the o-ring up in the lid

got a picture to explain got me alittle confused?

 

[Justin DuBois]

What does the top of your pump in the hanger look like? Is it stock? or is it something else?

Stock method - the probe on the pump has an o-ring on it, and the o-ring seals between the probe and a short metal tube that the probe slides into at the top of the pump hangar under the AN fitting. Maybe because the stock hanger was modified for an AN fitting you may not have this kind of setup.

 

[verified hick]

What does the top of your pump in the hanger look like? Is it stock? or is it something else?

Stock method - the probe on the pump has an o-ring on it, and the o-ring seals between the probe and a short metal tube that the probe slides into at the top of the pump hangar under the AN fitting. Maybe because the stock hanger was modified for an AN fitting you may not have this kind of setup.

yeah no its not stock, its a one of these it came with a 2 washers but no oring,

 

[Justin DuBois]

Ok - how does that connect to the pump? is the hose on the pump clamped on tight? it needs to hold all the pressure. The stock design holds a lot of pressure with an o-ring.

The hose that connects to the probe on the pump to the probe on AN fitting would need good hose clamps to seal well.

 

[verified hick]

Ok - how does that connect to the pump? is the hose on the pump clamped on tight? it needs to hold all the pressure. The stock design holds a lot of pressure with an o-ring.

The hose that connects to the probe on the pump to the probe on AN fitting would need good hose clamps to seal well.

yeah ill have to go thru it. thanks man

 

[92Turbski]

yeah ill have to go thru it. thanks man

By good hose clamp, Justin means a fuel injection hose clamp. One that holds high pressure, if possible/available.

 

[verified hick]

By good hose clamp, Justin means a fuel injection hose clamp. One that holds high pressure, if possible/available.

yeah i understand that. appreciate it

 

[92Turbski]

yeah i understand that. appreciate it

Soooo close, now, dude!

 

[verified hick]

Soooo close, now, dude!

yeah super close dude . after everything its just bumping i got to take the pump apart and figure it out. will figure it out hopefully quickly here

 

[verified hick]

well good news is we have fuel to the rail, bad news is it wont start still, ill link a video to what its doing but it’ll chug and sound like its going to start then cuts out. what testing and things we have done are:
2 prong coolant sensor verified in ecmlink its reading and not stuck at -74*
verified cas sensor had 12v and yellow wire pulses volts and the white wire also pulses volts. when we have the cas out and spin it by hand.
the downpipe and exhaust are not hooked up i dont know if it being disconnected would stop it from starting,
verified spark was strong on all spark plugs i think i had them gapped at 28 or 30 i havnt checked into that yet.
tried starting it with plug wires 4321 doesnt like that
i used 2341 and invert cas setting on ecmlink to get it to chug like it does it the video.
verified timing marks lined up.

 

[verified hick]

 

[Justin DuBois]

well good news is we have fuel to the rail, bad news is it wont start still, ill link a video to what its doing but it’ll chug and sound like its going to start then cuts out. what testing and things we have done are:
2 prong coolant sensor verified in ecmlink its reading and not stuck at -74*
verified cas sensor had 12v and yellow wire pulses volts and the white wire also pulses volts. when we have the cas out and spin it by hand.
the downpipe and exhaust are not hooked up i dont know if it being disconnected would stop it from starting,
verified spark was strong on all spark plugs i think i had them gapped at 28 or 30 i havnt checked into that yet.
tried starting it with plug wires 4321 doesnt like that
i used 2341 and invert cas setting on ecmlink to get it to chug like it does it the video.
verified timing marks lined up.

Note:
A. ECMLink CAS checkbox only affects the injector sequencing. In either position the engine should run, but one way is better than the other. 1G CAS or 2gb CAS - you should turn it on.

B. Spark 1 and 4 go to one coil, and 2 and 3 go to the other. If on crank, the spark is pushing in the wrong direction, or no fire - then switch the coil trigger wires, or the pairs of plug wires.

You can enable a key on pump prime for 2-3 seconds to make sure there is pressure in the rail before cranking, and when it is cold without a FIAV, you will need to hold the throttle open a bit.

 

[verified hick]

Note:
A. ECMLink CAS checkbox only affects the injector sequencing. In either position the engine should run, but one way is better than the other. 1G CAS or 2gb CAS - you should turn it on.

B. Spark 1 and 4 go to one coil, and 2 and 3 go to the other. If on crank, the spark is pushing in the wrong direction, or no fire - then switch the coil trigger wires, or the pairs of plug wires.

You can enable a key on pump prime for 2-3 seconds to make sure there is pressure in the rail before cranking, and when it is cold without a FIAV, you will need to hold the throttle open a bit.

yeah i appreciate the info ill look into it tomorrow and get back to you with the results. hopefully a video of it running

 

[verified hick]

okay so i do have my spark plug wires with 1-4 on the same coil and 2-3 on the other coil and its trying really hard to run but again only for a few short seconds now this could be because its cold asf out right now but it did make smoke out of the exhaust so thats a good sign. with all the starting i trashed the starter again so i need to warranty it out, in the meantime i hooked up my exhaust and wideband. also added the dsm logo.

 

[verified hick]

here’s another video with 1-4 wires on one coil and
2-3 on the other coil. it sounds like it wants to run so bad

 

[DSM_15_2G]

here’s another video with 1-4 wires on one coil and
2-3 on the other coil. it sounds like it wants to run so bad

I have to wonder, because I have similar issue, those hiccups when cranking, as if its losing power or something, mine does that sometimes and it POPS, and my idle goes to 2k on its own, quite weird, if someone knows what that could be, I'd really love to know

 

[92Turbski]

here’s another video with 1-4 wires on one coil and
2-3 on the other coil. it sounds like it wants to run so bad

Dangit, man. It doesn't sound right. The cylinders should be hitting on a nice consistent cadence, like cha, cha, cha, cha. It sounds like when you'd have a distributor 180 out on an old school motor. Like it's firing the spark before TDC on the compression stroke.
I would, at this point;
1. Verify mechanical all timing marks are lined up when #1 is at TDC.
2. Check your CAS orientation (dot and line are next to each other). If so, then verify voltage and signal at CAS.
3. Either swap with a known good one, or send in your ecu for testing to ecm link.

Any other thoughts/ideas @steve

 

[verified hick]

Dangit, man. It doesn't sound right. The cylinders should be hitting on a nice consistent cadence, like cha, cha, cha, cha. It sounds like when you'd have a distributor 180 out on an old school motor. Like it's firing the spark before TDC on the compression stroke.
I would, at this point;
1. Verify mechanical all timing marks are lined up when #1 is at TDC.
2. Check your CAS orientation (dot and line are next to each other). If so, then verify voltage and signal at CAS.
3. Either swap with a known good one, or send in your ecu for testing to ecm link.

Any other thoughts/ideas @steve

i appreciate you, i know it doesnt sound right but definitely sounds better then it did,
ill grab pictures of the timing marks for you
yes cas was installed with both notches next to each other. also tried fiddling with it while starting and it didnt change. so we tested and verified it had 12volts power yes it does, then we verified the yellow and white wire had pulses of up to 5v while spinning it and yes both pulsed.
ecu was already sent in to ecmlink and they had replaced some leaking caps
but i did buy the ecmlink from someone on facebook, if the tables and settings are still set up for his car that he had using the ecmlink would that be a possible cause to the no start?
like i saw he had the front 02 as a narrowband and mines just the stock 02 sensor?

 

[99dsmer4g63]

if the tables and settings are still set up for his car that he had using the ecmlink would that be a possible cause to the no start?

Absolutely. The ecu needs to know what it is supposed to do.

It can only do that with someone knowing what’s done under your hood and to take that information to configure ecmlink to your car and specific application.

I’d suggest loading a stock 2g table and tweaking for your injectors and maf/sd setup.

-Daniel

 

[chrisman287]

My car would start funky like that when my timing was off

 

[verified hick]

grabbed some pictures of the tables
do these look like tables on a stock car?

 

[Justin DuBois]

grabbed some pictures of the tables
do these look like tables on a stock car?

View attachment 719036

View attachment 719037

View attachment 719038

View attachment 719039

, no - upload a log, and we can look at other things. Your MAF Clamp looks stock but zero out the MAFComp and Fuel sliders.

 

[verified hick]

, no - upload a log, and we can look at other things. Your MAF Clamp looks stock but zero out the MAFComp and Fuel sliders.

thats what i thought. will do hopefully tomorrow. ill be back with pictures.

 

[92Turbski]

v3configs [ECMTuning - wiki]

ecmlink.com

 

[verified hick]

v3configs [ECMTuning - wiki]

ecmlink.com

i tried those and it said both of the 2g dsm ones were not able to transfer to my ecu i think because those are for 3.18 and 3.19 my firmware was 3.20 so ill just turn all the tables to zero no biggie