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First build, what parts am i missing?

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98mitsubishigst

10+ Year Contributor
1,526
16
Nov 17, 2008
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Im doing a stock rebuild on my 98 gst spyder..

i finally got my block, head and crank back from machine shop.. costs 1100 for everything they did, and they did a wonderful job..

Now..(the things without part names, i havent ordered yet, just making sure i got everything i need before i order so i can estimate prices)

Head
Cams
Gears
3g lifters
Rocker Arms
Springs.

ARP headstuds
Cosmetic Head Gasket

Block
OEM pistons
1g rods
Rod/main bearings
Front Case/Oil Pump
Water Pump
Timing Kit (bearings, belts, tensioner)

Full Gasket Set



anything else?
 
Im actually doing a REALLY SIMILAR build as you. OEM internals with ARP's, MLS gasket, 3g lifters. I went with SS Valves and manley valve springs though.
Now is the time to do a lightweight flywheel, clutch, motor mounts or anything that is hard to get to once its in. Other than upgrades, you should pretty much have it all. If not, send me a message, i have spare intake manifolds, throttle bodies, TB elbows and other randon junk in my basement.
 
Throttle body shaft seals, coolant hoses, thermostat, all filters, OEM PCV, accessory belts, oil catch can, NGK plugs, new wires,manual boost controller, bigger injectors, AFPR, upgraded fuel pump, DSMlink, 3" exhaust, positraction differential, FMIC, water/meth injection, turbo timer, larger IC pipes, 1g BOV, ACT flywheel, clutchmasters clutch set, steel shift forks, new OEM clutch fork, lightweight wheels, OEM harmonic balancer, Wideband and EGT gauges for tuning, aftermarket boost and oil pressure gauges for monitoring vitals.

Did I miss anything?
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Oh yeah!
Ps. ... ^^^If you get the ARP rod studs, have the machine shop install them when they bore out your rods for 2g piston pins. They may have to line hone the block for new main studs too.
 
almost everything you have mentioned i have thought of =)
i jsut didnt add in what i posted..i wanted the main stuff of the engine..


AND the machine shop did install them.. they did everything for a rebuild you could ask for haha.
 
=P haha :thumb:



Okay heres what im Ordering ..

Tell me if this is EVERYTHING i need for me to complete the ENGINE (not the outside of it!)

4G63T 4G64 Mitsubishi Main Bearings Set '97-newer, for cranks using thrust washers
4G63 4G63T 2.0 4G64 2.4 Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Mitsubishi and Hyundai
4G63 4G63T 4G64 New Oil Pump Assembly 93 -99
4G63T Mitsubishi 2.0 DOHC Full Gasket Set 95-99
4G63T Timing Kit Package 4Turbo Engines 1996-1999


I have the
-Pistons/Rings
-Rods
-Lifters/Rocker Arms/Springs/Valve Cover
-Arp Headstuds
-Thermo Housing and coolant lines
-Oil Pan
-Crank..
-Freeze Plugs/Spark Plugs/Injectors/Spark Plug Wires
 
If you are not getting a cometic then you would want to run this head gasket 4G63 4G63T 2.0 Head Gasket Only "MLS" (multi-layered-steel) Mitsubishi and Hyundai

Also I would stick with OEM on the timing belt parts, it is going to cost you more, but timing belt is not the place to be cheap.

Like AjWit said, i would seriously consider doing new motor mounts, clutch/transmission work or similar projects now as they are 10x easier with the motor out of the car.
 
If you are going to run arp rod bolts and main studs you need to have the block line bored and the rods resized. because of alignment issues. if they're off by even a half a thousandths the bearings will squeege the oil off of the bearing surfaces and cause premature engine failure. just an fyi
 
Where is a good place to buy everything oem i need for timing wise?

STM has an awesom package and it's free shipping as well. I've been looking to them a lot more now. Was using ExtremePSI for most of my stuff but the $7.50 handling fee was getting ridiculous especially when you just neededa bolt or gasket.
 
You should also get the oil pickup when you do a rebuild. No point in going through all that just to starve a new motor of oil.
 
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