first build, what parts am i leaving out

[CBRRACING]

ok so i would of posted this elsewhere but dsmtuners wont let me so here we go. as it says this is my frist dsm build and heres a list of about everything i got...

6 bolt block bored .02 over and decked
wiesco pistons 9.1
scat rods
balanced crank
acl bearings
arp man studs, head studs, and connecting rod bolts
topline oil pump
new water pump
new rear main seal
BC 280 cams(i know its a little much)
BC valves (1mm over)
BC springs and retainers
magnus intake manny
overhead coil packs


i know i still need..
cam grears
cosmetic head gasket
everything with fuel
turbo and manny
and im gunna run stock mounts till the engine is broken in(or till i have money)

im putting the block together this week so i wanna make sure im not leaving anything out. looking to make 500hp by the begining of next year. and just wondering what tuning software everyones using

 

[16G1G4G63Talon]

dsmlink version 3. aem ems, or haltech. im using version 3

 

[CBRRACING]

ide love the ame setup but its a little to much for me i was thinking of dsm link because of the price

 

[16G1G4G63Talon]

dsmlink version 3 is 600.. aem ems is about 800-1000 depending on where you get it from

 

[Side_Show]

did you eliminate your balance shafts and i dunno if you want to run a Kiggly main girdle.

 

[16G1G4G63Talon]

its a real good idea if you delete the balance shafts now...less stress of em breakin later on and leavin u screwed with bent valves and broken belt

 

[Andrew Conrady]

6 bolt block bored .02 over and decked
wiesco pistons 9.1
scat rods
balanced crank <- go forged eagle
acl bearings
arp man studs, head studs, and connecting rod bolts
topline oil pump <-- go with oem oil pump you will thank me later
new water pump
new rear main seal
BC 280 cams(i know its a little much) - 272
BC valves (1mm over) why for 500hp? maybe .5 over if not just stock with 5 angle grind
BC springs and retainers ? if any go with dual spings ti retainers and ss valves. single is not much benefit over stock
magnus intake manny / street or race?
overhead coil packs 500hp should be just fine with stock coil pack

ecmlink v3 is the easiest.

You will also need tons of gauges to properly tune this car.
a good timing belt

just for starters on your short block and head.
pm me for what i think about all of it. I am building a 500whp motor right now and there is tons more needed then you are thinking about so far... need help hit me up

 

[TJs91tsi]

i dont know if those bc cams REQUIRE cam gears, ive read some do to get them timed just right, but for right now to save money, stock cam gears will be fine for you.

As far as a tuning method. go check out DSMAP | bringing NATIVE Speed Density to 1st Gen DSM's since 2005.
For what youre going to be doing, you will need more than an safc, or maft etc...

You will need a socketed eprom ecu if you dont already. i love the setup, you eliminate a maf sensor, and the program itself is free. soon, there will be a pay version with a many more features. check it out. the people are great and if you want to really learn, its a great way to go. Tyler.

 

[16G1G4G63Talon]

im almost done with my 500 hp long block. balanced crank is ok for what hes wantin to do. dsmlink version 3 and gm maf and translator will help out. u tune just like u would n e thing else, but be sure u have an aem wideband

 

[knochgoon24]

6 bolt block bored .02 over and decked
wiesco pistons 9.1
scat rods
balanced crank <- go forged eagle <- OEM is fine
acl bearings
arp man studs, head studs, and connecting rod bolts
topline oil pump <-- go with oem oil pump you will thank me later
new water pump
new rear main seal
BC 280 cams(i know its a little much) - 272
BC valves (1mm over) why for 500hp? maybe .5 over if not just stock with 5 angle grind <- +1mm is pretty standard
BC springs and retainers ? if any go with dual spings ti retainers and ss valves. single is not much benefit over stock <-It all depends on how high he plans to rev
magnus intake manny / street or race?
overhead coil packs 500hp should be just fine with stock coil pack

ecmlink v3 is the easiest. <- To each his own. Every tuner has his "easiest". I'm partial to using an Evo 8 ECU myself. I know it's not a typical option, but I like it. $$$ cheaper.

You will also need tons of gauges to properly tune this car. <- ??? Boost/vac, AFR, Oil Pressure. Fuel pressure mounted to the AFPR.
a good timing belt

just for starters on your short block and head.
pm me for what i think about all of it. I am building a 500whp motor right now and there is tons more needed then you are thinking about so far... need help hit me up

Just my comments.
And you don't have any fuel upgrades listed.

Is this a 1g or a 2g?

im almost done with my 500 hp long block. balanced crank is ok for what hes wantin to do. dsmlink version 3 and gm maf and translator will help out. u tune just like u would n e thing else, but be sure u have an aem wideband

Depending on what he's using to tune, an Innovate LC-1 may be better.

 

[Andrew Conrady]

Just my comments.
And you don't have any fuel upgrades listed.

Is this a 1g or a 2g?



Depending on what he's using to tune, an Innovate LC-1 may be better.

I do agree with you on most of this stuff. Head really depends on what turbo/manifold and intake he uses. Also, with a stock tranny what do you expect to get out of 9000rpm 1mm oversize? more money and broke parts...

And agreed an oem crank is fine but why risk using it at 500hp if you used the forged from the start you could save tons of money for the future if you decide to up the hp....only reason i did this.

 

[knochgoon24]

I do agree with you on most of this stuff. Head really depends on what turbo/manifold and intake he uses. Also, with a stock tranny what do you expect to get out of 9000rpm 1mm oversize? more money and broke parts...

And agreed an oem crank is fine but why risk using it at 500hp if you used the forged from the start you could save tons of money for the future if you decide to up the hp....only reason i did this.

The OEM crank is pretty strong. 500hp is no problem. It's not even breaking a sweat. There's better places to spend the money in this build.
EDIT: Let me rephrase. If the crank you have right now is in good shape, use it. If it needs any work at all, replace it and upgrade.

If he expects a stock transmission to hold 500hp for long, he's kidding himself. You don't run 280 cams on a low revving DD.

You don't have to run 1mm valves to 9000rpm to get any benefit out of them, but with those cams, he's going to want to rev higher anyways. Why pay the labor to get the head redone twice? A half mm isn't going to make much of a difference to his low end torque compared to what those 280 cams will do.

 

[TJs91tsi]

Ahh, yes please update your profile so we know what car this is for.

agreed with Knochgoon24, an innovate may be much better depending. im having the same problem as many other people with my aem gauge reading different then its logger/output wire.

 

[CBRRACING]

ok so some more stuff that i left out its a 90 tsi red if anyone cares but i left out a few things like i have a aem meth kit, all the guaiges besides for a wideband, most of the balance shaft delete kit, full 3 inch apexi, gator belt, and a hole engine to take misc parts off of. i wanna run a 35r in the summer but im going to put a 16g or a sleeper20 on for the winter. also where can i get a new transfer case seal from i have an extra t-case but a backup never hurts.

 

[CBRRACING]

had a 04 sti
cobb stage 2


AWD=LoVe

 

[16G1G4G63Talon]

well what do u have as far as injectors go, fuel pump....ect.

 

[YOOOO]

Your going to need a clutch. I'd recommend going with DSMLink V3 so you can run speed density. What exactly are your goals, some of what you have might be overkill

 

[16G1G4G63Talon]

alot of it is overkill... but it will work out in the end depend on what kind of tune he will go with and injector pulse witdth... ect.

 

[CBRRACING]

i dont have anything for fuel i wanna run a warbrlo 250 till i get a dual setup for the spring. but i was hoping on running a stock clutch till i put the new turbo on in the spring as well but i dont know how itll hold up to a 16g maxed out

 

[16G1G4G63Talon]

run a walbro 255 pump. 650 or 750 rc injectors. tune it for the injectors u wanna use. dsmlink will be good for that. do the gm maf and translator, balance shaft delete, and get u a good set of tires

 

[CBRRACING]

ok but i started this forum to find out if i was ready to put my bottem end together and in the car. anyone think of any reason why i should wait? any big parts i would need to buy first i already have all the torque specs and patters. one thing stopping me is the balance shaft delete kit. i bought the one off ebay that comes with the plugs and little cam. what else do i need and can i take it off my other engine that has a delete kit. the other engine has missing pully bolts anywhere good to get them besides for home depo racing or lowes speed shop

 

[16G1G4G63Talon]

nothing would be stopping you unless u didnt have rods, mains, bearings, or pistons themselves. go ahead and build it man, if u have any questions on your balance shaft delete let me know, i can help you out. im almost done with mine

 

[CBRRACING]

got the maf translator to, so i just need injectors, pump, wideband and dsmlink for fuel and tuning for now. might start puting it together tomorrow its been sitting for so long everyone wants to see it running

 

[16G1G4G63Talon]

man mine has been down for about a month now and this build has all started from a broken timing belt. Im a victim of crankwalk, interference, and heartache. bent 6 valves and alot of my timing components were screwed

 

[CBRRACING]

ok so everyone who poseted kinda helped but noone really answered the question. what else do i need to finish my build. i was sitting at my job today thinking and i realized noone said anything about timing. what timing components do i need new when puting everything together.

i took out the fuel pump today and i do have a W 255 so i just need injectors and a fuel pressure reg