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Fidanza ALERT!!!

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Hey, 1 lb ~ 2.2Kg so 4.5 * 2.2 = 9.9lbs and how would a Jun steel FW be lighter than a 6061 aluminum fidanza?
 
I can attest that Jun makes a VERY light FW. I believe that it is around 9lbs or roughly the same weight as Fidanza.

However, Jun was not expecting to see their FW as beat up as they got abused in AWD DSMs during drag racing. They are fine for road racing or AutoX, but I would not one for drag racing.

Leon
RR
 
Originally posted by GreenGSX
The solution is a stepped dowel pin that uses the pressure plate assembly to hold the pins in while still maintaining the centering function of the dowels themselves......did that make sense???

Tim

So you buy the pins for $15 and have someone enlarge the flywheel's dowel pin holes? Sorry if i'm misunderstanding.
 
Slightly off topic but, why are you guys drag racing with a lighter flywheel? You really want a heavier flywheel not the other way around.

Back to the topic....
 
Originally posted by Rick@AP
Slightly off topic but, why are you guys drag racing with a lighter flywheel? You really want a heavier flywheel not the other way around.

Back to the topic....

Fidanza has the best customer service in the world. I would call them up and send it back to have it done.

Tim
 
Originally posted by RED_AWD_BLUR
Hey, 1 lb ~ 2.2Kg so 4.5 * 2.2 = 9.9lbs and how would a Jun steel FW be lighter than a 6061 aluminum fidanza?

Sorry bout' that always get that american standard messed up, I used 1.6 the kilometers to mile conversion. So yea a tad under 10 pounds. You can even custom order an ultra-light flywheel that weighs in at 3.5 kg. you convert
heres a pic of their ultralight.
 

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Originally posted by Rick@AP
Slightly off topic but, why are you guys drag racing with a lighter flywheel? You really want a heavier flywheel not the other way around.

Back to the topic....


I hope you are joking. But if you are not, why the hell would you think that:confused:
 
Just to make sure this thread stays on topic, Fidanza had an issue with how they held the dowel pins in there flywheels that they've fixed with stepped dowel pins. Like I said eariler, I've had all three...stock, RRE lightened, and Fidanza. As far as I'm concerned, the Fidanza is the best by far....As you can see by the photo I've attatched, I'm using the Fidanza

Tim
11.9 @ 119mph

(photo by Steve Burke....Rochester DSM)
 

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Originally posted by GRNDSM
I can attest that Jun makes a VERY light FW. I believe that it is around 9lbs or roughly the same weight as Fidanza.

However, Jun was not expecting to see their FW as beat up as they got abused in AWD DSMs during drag racing. They are fine for road racing or AutoX, but I would not one for drag racing.

Leon
RR

FYI Pruven only recommends JUN flywheels for big hp drag applications due to this very problem.

Dan has been through over 29 combinations in his 527awhp street car before running what he runs. (well before he sold the car anyway. :) ) He's exploded a few stockers as well.
 
Originally posted by FastRthenU



I hope you are joking. But if you are not, why the hell would you think that:confused:

Because he is right. To a point. The momentum from a heavier flywheel helps launching the car. A light flywheel is harder to launch but parasitic loss is less. However, the benefits of a lighter flywheel affect many other areas of driving our cars and hence are usually a better all around solution.
 
Originally posted by JayHass


FYI Pruven only recommends JUN flywheels for big hp drag applications due to this very problem.

Dan has been through over 29 combinations in his 527awhp street car before running what he runs. (well before he sold the car anyway. :) ) He's exploded a few stockers as well.

OK then, call up JUN and ask them about what THEY think about using their FWs for drag racing... They do not like it :).

Leon
RR
 
Originally posted by GRNDSM


OK then, call up JUN and ask them about what THEY think about using their FWs for drag racing... They do not like it :).

Leon
RR

OMG...Leon I'm not arguing with you, I'm simply saying that the JUN is the only unit to hold up so far with no problems regardless of what it's "original" design was for.

I'm not making this up, call Dan yourself and see what his experience has been with flywheels.

P.S. I've delth with JUN a LOT due to my love for and the fact that they generally make the best parts for Nissan cars. I've been out to Cali visted their shop, spent time with John the GM...talked with the president at E-Town about "stuff" etc etc. They have a weird way of thinking sometimes IMO. I.E. They claim you HAVE to resleeve the SR20 over 450hp or it will explode. They also say the stock head gasket goes away after 400hp. We in the US have proven this is not the case by about 150-200hp time and again.
 
...Because he is right. To a point. The momentum from a heavier flywheel helps launching the car. A light flywheel is harder to launch but parasitic loss is less. However, the benefits of a lighter flywheel affect many other areas of driving our cars and hence are usually a better all around solution....

I want to add that yes, Tev. is correct, but there are a couple schools of thought here. The biggest advantage to a heavier flywheel is access to more stored energy. Think about it for a second. You push the clutch in, and rev the motor to 5K rpm. Your car weighs ~ 3000 pounds. Which flywheel do you think is going to kick your car in the ass harder and start the acceleration process quicker? Some little 10 pound aluminum flywheel, or a heavier ~22 pound steel one? What is going to hurt more? A pencil hitting you, or a sledge hammer? Same principle applies here. Now, I personally feel that a heavier flywheel is beneficial even from a higher speed rolling start. Number one, it puts more load on the engine which is going to mean faster spoolup, and more HP, and number two, you still have the principle of stored energy to consider. This will be hard to follow, but since the light flywheel gets going so quickly, it doesn't have enough time to 'store up' energy; it's immediately transfered to the ground. A heavy flywheel is going to carry more load, more energy, and therefore translate into more available power at the tires when it gets going. You can hold your arm right in front of your body, and punch someone, or you can wind all the way up and punch someone. The first one is *quicker* but which one has more power? Again, you can argue this because there are two different schools of thought. BTW, TurboTrix is selling billet steel flywheels, and will be the one that I am going to use.

Regards,
 
>I'm simply saying that the JUN is the only unit to hold up so far with no
>problems regardless of what it's "original" design was for.


Well, that was not my experience with JUN FW... I used it on a mid 11' sec car. It looked terrible after just a 50-60 passes in two month of usage. And there are thers who had similar complaints (you might want to look into history of this FW). Contacting JUN was not much help as they said that their FW was not intended for drag racing and should not be used for that purpose.

I understand that Dan might have had good luck with it, but this has not been the case for most people…

BTW, I was looking for a steel FW, I would check out new ACT unit (http://www.advancedclutch.com) . It is almost half of JUN price! But I have not heard yet how it holds up to drag racing abuse.

Leon
RR


Leon
RR
 
I have RRE lightened flywheel. but i thought that the purpose of the lightened flywheel is to help you spool faster (turbo). it seems like i lost a lot of torque. I have the big 16G turbo. did i lose torque from the bigger turbo or the lightened flywheel.
 
i've tried launching at higher rpm. the only thing i noticed is that my clutch slips more. i have the ACT 2600. is it better to just go w/ the stock clutch. believe it or not i even get less gas mileage w/ the lightend FW.
 
Hi, I know this is a bit off-topic, but I was wondering if anyone has ever replaced a flywheel in a N/T 6 bolt 1g with a fidanza for the fwd turbo. I would like to do this, and from looking at CAPS and the fact that the F5M tranny is used in both, I think that the only thing I would need is a new clutch/pressure plate for the FWD turbo. Does this sound right?
 
a day late and a dollar short as they say.

since your question is so off topic, and this thread so old, why not just start a new thread?
Your question is so specific that I doubt you will find anyone on this thread that can help you.
 
I love FIdanza's Customer Service. I bought a USed Flywheel, the guy said it had only 1000 miles on it, I looked at it and it was SCARRED and a dowle pin was missing. SO I called up fidanza, and if I shipped it to them, they would fix it for me for FREE!!!!!!!!!! They put in a NEW Heat sheild and Stepped it perfectly. They not only fixed the original dowel pin, but actually ripped out AL OF THEM AND FIXED THEM ALL, I didn't even ask for that. I got it back in a week, great company.

I goes on thios week aith a GVR$ 1st gear.
 
One thing to watch for if you get them used. Look for those 3 hex bolts that hold the ring gear. They tend to wear off and cause the ring gear to separate from the flywheel. I replaced those hex with regular nuts and bolts. Look for the right size and grind the nut down a bit so you can wedge it in between the flywheel and ring. Good luck.



Set,
 
Fidanza Customer Service and their willingness to help you definitely deserve a big thumbs up!!

In a not so related story to the initial thread, I have my car currently apart at a local shop for a transmission rebuild and upgrade. While in the shop, they discovered that the 7-8 month old clutch and flywheel setup I have has experienced heat damage, and the shop says they aren't too comfortable putting it back in.

I call up Fidanza, talk to Dave @ the tech line, and they (without any hesitation) say send it in and we'll help you out. They also mentioned they'll take care of the dowel pin issue at the same time. This is the first time I've seen a "one year limited warranty" save my bacon.

I do have to give props too to RPS who I also contacted (about my stage 2/street clutch) and was also quite helpful in this situation. I may end up having to pay the resurfacing charge, but JT has been pretty cool about things and RPS has also earned a thumbs up for willingness to work things out, in my book...

I'm just glad that in the end, both vendors were kind enough to walk me down off the roof after hearing that my <1 year old clutch/flywheel (that I haven't beaten on at all) was already hosed up. They've made my week!!
 
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