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Few issues I cant figure out

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JuGs

10+ Year Contributor
674
0
Jul 20, 2008
Marshall, Wisconsin
Well Im having 2 issues I can figure out. I cant get my oil pressure gauge to work. I tapped it into the sending unit wire clip and it doesnt read pressure, it jumps up very slightly and when i hit throttle it goes to 0 psi and done nothing more. Whats the cause of this?

My other issue is with my clutch or shifter. When I start the car up for the first time in the morning, its almost impossible to get my car into reverse. Ill litteraly stand on the clutch as hard as I can and use both hands and pull as hard as possible. It just sits and grinds. After a few mins I can finaly get it into reverse. After I drive for a few it will still grind going into revers but only until it pops into gear. It also is hard to get into first every so often, and when down shifting into second it will grind (not ever time though) and i have to double clutch it to down shift. I checked the cables and all see fine to me. I didnt try readjusting then just yet. I also adjusted the master cylinder rod a few times and it helped for a little bit but now its getting worse again. Any tips for this would be great.
 
As for the gauge are you talking about the stock gauge or an aftermarket one? And for your transmission issue, I would probably say that your reverse gear syncro is going bad or possibly one of your shifter cables is going bad. Do you have any other problems going into any other gear?
 
Its a after market gauge. No shifting from first through 5th is fine, once in a blue moon it will grind hittings second but every other gear goes in fine
 
Which port in this picture are you "tapping" in to? Also you are just not connecting the wire to the stock sender unit are you? The aftermarket gauge should have a new sender unit that you need to screw into the port of the stock sender unit. And I still bet it's either your cables or a bad syncro.

<a href="http://s163.photobucket.com/albums/t307/eclipse22023/?action=view&amp;current=2hrlisn.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t307/eclipse22023/2hrlisn.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
Have you tried bleeding the clutch? Sounds like worn components be it weak hydraulics to bent release fork to bent clutch assy. Then you could also have a clutch disc coming apart.

Oil pressure if your using the factory sender on an aftermarket gauge they maybe calibrated for different voltages.

Reverse is not syncro'd
 
circles in red is where I have it tapped into. I bought the gauge used and the sending unit it came with looked like it didnt fit right in the car it was taken off of. The threads had stripped thread materal on it and I could hardly get it to wanna screw in, so i didnt wanna cause damage and just used my stock sending unit. Ill check the shifter adjustment and redo it tomorrow and see if it helps at all. Maybe a cable is twisted and causeing a bind. Ill also see if I can find a helping hand to bleed the system
 

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Good call brian... I had no idea reverse doesn't have syncros. I agree bleeding the clutch would be a good idea but I still say it could be shifter cable. Happened to me when one of my cables went. First it wouldn't go in reverse then it would go into 2nd or 4th. Could actually be numerous different things with the tranny actually. And that is the correct wire for the stock sender but you need to use the sender that goes with your gauge.
 
Ohh and for my clutch issue. If im sitting still in first gear(clutch pushed in of course) the car will move forward like the clutch isnt releasing completly.

Good call brian... I had no idea reverse doesn't have syncros. I agree bleeding the clutch would be a good idea but I still say it could be shifter cable. Happened to me when one of my cables went. First it wouldn't go in reverse then it would go into 2nd or 4th. Could actually be numerous different things with the tranny actually. And that is the correct wire for the stock sender but you need to use the sender that goes with your gauge.

I think I tossed the sender it came with. I guess Ill have to see if I can order one sepratly from autometer.
 
Awsome thanks for the link. What is the averae oil pressure supose to be reading at tdle and while driving? Ill order a new sender unit tomorrow and hopefully get a helping hand to bleed my clutch. Thanks for the quick responses
 
Oil pressure at idle should be pretty low probably around 10-12 psi or so. While driving anything from 60-100 is normal. It will vary on the engine. But make sure you get the sender unit b/c your gauge won't work right without it and the stock sender unit is garbage anyway. And type in "how to bleed a clutch" in the search bar and you should find some useful information.
 
I know how to bleed the clutch. I just rather have a person to help to make it easier on me.
 
Try adjusting the master cylinder rod. Its helped a ton on a few of my grindy dsm's in the past. While your under there check the master cylinder for drips of fluid. When they go bad they will leak fluid inside the car near the firewall. :thumb:

Clutch Adjustment
 
Try an extended clutch rod, possibly time for a new clutch as well it sounds like and also check your shifter bushings. the old rubber ones tend to deteriorate over time. As for the gauge use the new sender and tap into one of the unused taps on the housing as most guages work best with their own senders.
 
Also if your shifter cables are out of adjustment at the shifter base it will cause all kinds of shifting problems. Another thing you can check is play in the clutch pedal. Reach down and grab the clutch pedal with your hand and see if you can pull it up. If it does pull up more than a half inch or so then your clutch pedal assembly is worn and can cause engagement issues. Its a some what common problem when guys run heavy clutch's but I don't see an upgraded clutch in your mod list but who knows what clutch's previous owners ran before you. Its simple enough to check so why not LOL.

Chances are its probly a bad slave cyl or master cyl. When you said it got better after adjusting the rod for a little while then started to get worse again would point to a bad master cyl. Did you notince any fluid coming out of the master cyl while you were under there adjusting the rod?

One more thing comes to mind. Have you ever noticed if your shifter moves when your cruising in 5th gear and you let off the gas then get back on it? Yet again this happened to one of my old dsm's and it made the tranny grind. After fixing it shifting was a lot better.

Shifter Movement Fix
 
Well Im having 2 issues I can figure out. I cant get my oil pressure gauge to work. I tapped it into the sending unit wire clip and it doesnt read pressure, it jumps up very slightly and when i hit throttle it goes to 0 psi and done nothing more. Whats the cause of this?

My other issue is with my clutch or shifter. When I start the car up for the first time in the morning, its almost impossible to get my car into reverse. Ill litteraly stand on the clutch as hard as I can and use both hands and pull as hard as possible. It just sits and grinds. After a few mins I can finaly get it into reverse. After I drive for a few it will still grind going into revers but only until it pops into gear. It also is hard to get into first every so often, and when down shifting into second it will grind (not ever time though) and i have to double clutch it to down shift. I checked the cables and all see fine to me. I didnt try readjusting then just yet. I also adjusted the master cylinder rod a few times and it helped for a little bit but now its getting worse again. Any tips for this would be great.

Have you tried slowly easing off the clutch while pushing the shifter into the gear? Mine gets stuck at times too but all I do is ease off the clutch then it goes in place. I know other manual cars have the same issues thats why I figured it would work for this and it did.
 
You have a 1g, so try this test on your pedals. Pull up on your clutch pedal, did it move? IF so, then you need to tighten the 14mm bolt on the inside of the pedal assembly (it is a mother to get to).

I had the same shifting problem, it was a loose pedal not allowing the clutch to fully disengage.
 
Master cylinder is new. Im going to replace the slave since I have no clue when it was replaced. I have already adjusted the master cyclinder rod 2 times and it only helped slightly. I cant adjust it any further its at max right now. I didnt think about seeing if the pedal it self was loose. I will definatly check that for sure tho. When I first started having this issue I adjusted the master cylinder rod, when i went to adjust it the jam nut wasnt even remotly close to jaming the rod. I still need to bleed clutch i got cought up on a few things and havent done much since the other day. Yes while driving in 5th i can see the shifter move and feel it.
 
Ok I lied. No shifter movment in 5th. Theres ins in 2nd n 4th though. I went to bleed my clutch and I cant get to the bleeder very well. Almost looks like a wrong slave or wrong clutch line or something. Ill post a picture and let me know if it seems normal. Also the shifter cable barcket on the tranny has play in it. I tightened it up but theres still slight play. I know it looks like thres a clear shot to get to the bleeder but theres no room to loosen the bleeder. I get not even a 8th of a turn. I had to readjust the wrench 3 times before it would gravity bleed.






NEVERMIND

Im dumb today. Its all correct I see how vfaq did it. I was trying to use a box end wrench not a socket. Ill do this on the weekend with a socket.
 

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Well I check the cable adjustmens and all look fine. I had to slightly adjsut the side to side but it want much didnt seem to help really at all. Im not understanding whats going on. It almost never wants to go in reverse now I have to shut car off to get it in reverse. While clutch fully pressed down the clutch doesnt completly disingauge, no matter what gear its in. I picked up a new clutch and ordered a clutch for and pivot ball today. What else can be going on here? ID bleeding the system and replaceing the clutch fork and pivot ball dont works whats left?
 

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The first thing I notice is that your shifter cables appear to be from a 90 judging by the way that they are both adjustable and your shifter base is a 91-94. The 91-94 cables only have the nut to adjust one cable. I may be wrong but I think some generic parts store cables for the 91-94's were both adjustable. You might want to check the shifter cable bracket on the tranny as well (link below). Most times when you miss match the shifter cables, base and tranny bracket you will have all sorts of shifting problems. I went through all this when I bought a 90 tranny (nobody knew it) out of a 93 parts car and had all kinds of issues. I eventually bought a set of 90 shifter cables and a 90 shifter base to match up with the 90 tranny I just put in and it shifts like butter now.


Shifter Differences
 
ok I been messing with this for like 5 hours now. Im trying to bleed the clutch but its kinda hard with just me. I cant even get it in or out of gear now( after I brought the master cylinder rod in) I though maybe I have the master rod out to much and i brought it in a few turns and it wont go intogear at all. If i shut the car off put it in gear hold clutch down my car takes off and coasts(while clutch still pushed in) at a lil over 5mph. I did grab the clutch pedal and it pulled up about a inch till it hit the other switch. heres some pic of how far the pedal moved when I pulled on it by hand.

You have a 1g, so try this test on your pedals. Pull up on your clutch pedal, did it move? IF so, then you need to tighten the 14mm bolt on the inside of the pedal assembly (it is a mother to get to).

I had the same shifting problem, it was a loose pedal not allowing the clutch to fully disengage.

Is this bolt at the end by the gas pedal?
 

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From the looks of that pic thats a lot of play in the clutch pedal assembly. Try tightening that nut that holds the assembly to the firewall if that doesn't work then your assembly is most likely worn out and will need to be replaced or welded. Just a warning its a pain in the arse to replace.
 
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