cioc
15+ Year Contributor
- 208
- 35
- Aug 2, 2006
-
Sparta,
New Jersey
A lot of people have asked me how I went about making my fender flares so here's a higher level overview of the major steps involved. Firstly I need to state that my reasoning for adding flares was that I chose to go with a tire size and wheel offset that would not rub on the suspension from the inside of the wheel/tire combo. Even though the tires stuck out I've seen other dsm's with that setup and didn't figure on it being an issue. Unfortunately my first track day with this tire combo and the Ohlin's coilovers taught me that there was a tad too much shock travel that caused the tire to hit the top of the rear fender. Luckily they just kissed and the fender didn't eat the tire and cause a massive problem. From there I decided to cut the body up and go the flare route. Flares were purchased here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02c/50-1562
Step 1: With the rear shocks removed I cycled the suspension to see exactly where the tire would hit.
Step 2: Make your first cut line
Step 3: Continue to cut an arc that prevents any tire rubbing and make perpendicular cuts to create tabs. Yes you will cut through the inner fender seam.
Step 4: Bend the tabs up and make a line parallel with the body to mark next cut line.
Step 5: Cut each tab at your mark and hammer each tab up into the inside of the wheel well.
Step 6: Continue to hammer until the tabs conform to the wheel arch.
Step 7: No pics of this but tack weld the tabs inside the wheel well and use automotive panel adhesive epoxy and seam sealer. This stuff is SUPER strong and should prevent corrosion.
Step 8: Cycle the suspension again to ensure you have clearance.
Step 9: Mock up the position of your flares and bolt them to the body using rivet nuts.
Step 10: With tape on the car to protect the body, fill any/all gaps you can with automotive panel adhesive epoxy. This stuff is the 2 part epoxy that uses a dual piston caulking gun and mixes in the tip.
Step 11: Remove the flares and use a dremel/file/sandpaper to file down the epoxy to make the contour from the flare to the bodywork you desire. This step took several hours to get right.
Step 12: Repeat on other corners. The front is much easier as there is no inner fender to re-attach, just the splash guard.
Step 13: Paint if you so desire. Personally I like the way it looks matched to the body color.
Step 14: Take lots of pics and admire your work!
Step 1: With the rear shocks removed I cycled the suspension to see exactly where the tire would hit.
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Step 2: Make your first cut line
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 3: Continue to cut an arc that prevents any tire rubbing and make perpendicular cuts to create tabs. Yes you will cut through the inner fender seam.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 4: Bend the tabs up and make a line parallel with the body to mark next cut line.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 5: Cut each tab at your mark and hammer each tab up into the inside of the wheel well.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 6: Continue to hammer until the tabs conform to the wheel arch.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 7: No pics of this but tack weld the tabs inside the wheel well and use automotive panel adhesive epoxy and seam sealer. This stuff is SUPER strong and should prevent corrosion.
Step 8: Cycle the suspension again to ensure you have clearance.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 9: Mock up the position of your flares and bolt them to the body using rivet nuts.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 10: With tape on the car to protect the body, fill any/all gaps you can with automotive panel adhesive epoxy. This stuff is the 2 part epoxy that uses a dual piston caulking gun and mixes in the tip.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 11: Remove the flares and use a dremel/file/sandpaper to file down the epoxy to make the contour from the flare to the bodywork you desire. This step took several hours to get right.
Step 12: Repeat on other corners. The front is much easier as there is no inner fender to re-attach, just the splash guard.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 13: Paint if you so desire. Personally I like the way it looks matched to the body color.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Step 14: Take lots of pics and admire your work!
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
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