The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Exhaust Manifold stud comes out and oil leaks out with it need help

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

talontsiboy24

10+ Year Contributor
868
3
Mar 28, 2009
60457, Illinois
So one of my exhaust manifold studs in the middle of the bottom row came out and all this oil started comming out of the hole what can it be? i looked at the stud it was stripped as hell! is there a way i can seal the hole up or something?
 
some of those studs go into oil passages the only thing you can do is heli-coil and put a new stud or weld it. but welding itsnt really a good option IMO
 
So one of my exhaust manifold studs in the middle of the bottom row came out and all this oil started comming out of the hole what can it be? i looked at the stud it was stripped as hell! is there a way i can seal the hole up or something?

That is the stud that goes into the central oil drain from the head. Pull it out, rethread it and helicoil it.
 
i cant torque it in cause the hole is stripped but i really need to drive the car and in order to get it into the shop i would have to tow it there and that aint gonna be cheap since the shop is like 50min away and then there gonna charge me who knows how much to do it :(
 
i cant torque it in cause the hole is stripped but i really need to drive the car and in order to get it into the shop i would have to tow it there and that aint gonna be cheap since the shop is like 50min away and then there gonna charge me who knows how much to do it :(

You'll need to helicoil then also this is why it's good to have AAA (free towing for the first 100 miles)

Honestly, you may as well replace all of them www.ssstuds.com if they are old and starting to get brittle.
 
is it possible for now i can get a bolt from the hardware store or something that would stay in the hole till i get it fixed? i just need somethin to stop the oil from comming out of the hole for now at least to get around.
 
Yes you can use a temporary plug. I don't know how you are planning on doing it with the exhaust manifold being there unless you are cutting the bolt flush.
 
is it possible for now i can get a bolt from the hardware store or something that would stay in the hole till i get it fixed? i just need somethin to stop the oil from comming out of the hole for now at least to get around.

Im sure you can find a way to make a makeshift way to hold you over, but if you plow in a bigger bolt or a different thread size, you may just make it worse. Helicoils are easy to use and very effective, just make sure you have grease all over the drill bit and tap when you do it so you dont contaminate your oil. Also, depending on how bad it really is, you may just be able to run a tap through it and have enough there to bite.

PS i had that stud blow out on me once when it was sorta stripped and it shot a pee stream of oil onto the turbine housing...needless to say at the track, at the top of 3rd gear, shes hot...and she definitely caught on fire, and i definitely had to get out and take a leak on it at the end of the track to put it out. Not my idea of fun, just a forewarning, it can create more problems than you want to deal with if its not taken care of properly i.e. your car burning to the ground LOL.
 
Im sure you can find a way to make a makeshift way to hold you over, but if you plow in a bigger bolt or a different thread size, you may just make it worse. Helicoils are easy to use and very effective, just make sure you have grease all over the drill bit and tap when you do it so you dont contaminate your oil. Also, depending on how bad it really is, you may just be able to run a tap through it and have enough there to bite.

PS i had that stud blow out on me once when it was sorta stripped and it shot a pee stream of oil onto the turbine housing...needless to say at the track, at the top of 3rd gear, shes hot...and she definitely caught on fire, and i definitely had to get out and take a leak on it at the end of the track to put it out. Not my idea of fun, just a forewarning, it can create more problems than you want to deal with if its not taken care of properly i.e. your car burning to the ground LOL.

well is it possible if i go to the hardware store and find a bolt the same size as the stud and try to screw it in there would it stop the oil leak at least or no?
 
well is it possible if i go to the hardware store and find a bolt the same size as the stud and try to screw it in there would it stop the oil leak at least or no?

It depends on the condition of the threads. But if the stud keeps it from leaking then a bolt should as well. The head can't tell the difference.:) The size you need is M8 x 1.25
 
just rtv then jb weld over the hole... if your just trying to get it to a shop i think that will hold... id put a piece of soda can over the hole after the jb weld then bolt the mani on and i think it will hold up
 
Well i removed the exhaust manifold and i got a new stud in the hole that i thought needed to be helicoil or tapped but the new stud seems to screw in all the way into the head but is there anyway to make sure its not gonna back out again? like some special tool to tighten the studs into the head real good? should i put some thread sealant at the end of the new stud?
 
Well i removed the exhaust manifold and i got a new stud in the hole that i thought needed to be helicoil or tapped but the new stud seems to screw in all the way into the head but is there anyway to make sure its not gonna back out again? like some special tool to tighten the studs into the head real good? should i put some thread sealant at the end of the new stud?

You should use a high temp anti seize.
 
im having a simlar issue but i got oil all around the middle parts of the exhaust manifold not just the bottom. whenever i go into boost it throws oil everywhere. havent checked if im missing a bolt or anything. would a bad head gasket leak oil all over that area?


needless to say at the track, at the top of 3rd gear, shes hot...and she definitely caught on fire, and i definitely had to get out and take a leak on it at the end of the track to put it out.

ROFL!
 
You should use a high temp anti seize.

autozone said to use a high temp thread locker since im trying to keep the stud locked in place not comming back out but it says it withstands temps up to 450f so i think i need somethin stronger? what about i put some jb weld at the end of the stud and then screw it in? For the exhaust manifold studs u just screw them in the head with your hand till it stops? i mean theres no tool to tight the stud real good in the head?

my exhaust manifold and o2 housing gaskets have no cracks in them and look fine so can i reuse them? should i spray them with copper spray or just put them back on?
 
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I'm having this same problem with my far bottom left exhaust manifold stud, its slowly leaking oil past the stud and Ive been meaning to fix it but was wondering what the best thread sealant would be in this situation considering the temperatures get upwards of 1500F + when the exhaust manifold is glowing red. I don't want to use a sealant that will fail under those conditions. Any advice on what I should be using to seal the leak?
 
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I'm having this same problem with my far bottom left exhaust manifold stud, its slowly leaking oil past the stud and Ive been meaning to fix it but was wondering what the best thread sealant would be in this situation considering the temperatures get upwards of 1500F + when the exhaust manifold is glowing red. I don't want to use a sealant that will fail under those conditions. Any advice on what I should be using to seal the leak?

Buy some versachem inferno metal repair it will hold up 2000f worked for me its only $6 at autozone.

* Resists temperatures up to 2000°F
* Resistance to gasoline, diesel and oils.
* Cured material can be machined or sanded as needed.
* High temp formula gets stronger with heat.
* Gauranteed Not To Leak.

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/itw/83009/image/4/
 
Awesome thanks so much man I really appreciate it!

make sure u let it air dry for 3 to 4 hours. Then Gradually heat repair for 10 – 15 minutes to complete cure using
a heat gun capable of attaining 350ºF – 400ºF.

SURFACE PREPARATION: Remove rust by sanding, wire brush or sandblasting.Remove all dirt using lacquer thinner. Burn off any oil or grease residue.

make sure u clean the hole out really good and then put some of this stuff on the threads of the bolt thats gonna get screwed in the head then screw it in there let it air dry like the above and then heat the repair for 10-15 minutes.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top