Excessive white smoke issue. Need suggestions and help

[untouchablecc]

Hey guys Im kind of in a bind here. Im currently driving my tsi awd with transmission issues and trying to get my 99 NT eclipse on the road for my daily.

I bought this car for a really good price but I it smoked white smoke and a lot of it. I drove it a few miles just to get it to my house. Im well aware the 420a is known for its HG issues. I have narrowed my issue down cylinder one I think. The plug is black. Even after cleaning it. On my way home I put the car under a load by going up a hill and my friend following me had to stop because he couldnt see through the level of white smoke I was pumping out. Its been a long time since I have drove a one of these but I am almost certain it has power loss.

I did a compression test. I did not have a cylinder below 160ish. I can get actually numbers when I get home I have them wrote down. I did pull the head off and I took it to the shop this afternoon and had the machinist check for warpage. I watched him check it after checking it at home myself with my half ass straight edge. The spec for warpage is .004 we couldnt even find .002 of warpage so the head is okay as far as that goes. The combustion chamber has no signs of washout from coolant. Pistons are all blackish to brown. Normal carbon buildup so my question is what could it be?

 

[DSMnoobsause]

Crack test the head. Make sure you check the exhaust ports for cracks.

 

[BogusSVO]

There are only so many ways to get that much smoke.

The HG sounds like it was in decent shape. That was based on the warp you found.
The coloring sounds about normal too.

The black spark plug throws me tho... most the time that is a rich condition, when burning coolet/anti-freeze, it will take on a yellowish/greenish color.

I would have the head pressure tested, you may have a head that has bad core shift or a weak fussion weld, that is leaking water straight into an exhaust runner.

If the hole is bad enough, you may see a "wash spot" in the runner.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...how-aluminum-head-pressure-tested-cracks.html

 

[untouchablecc]

There are only so many ways to get that much smoke.

The HG sounds like it was in decent shape. That was based on the warp you found.
The coloring sounds about normal too.

The black spark plug throws me tho... most the time that is a rich condition, when burning coolet/anti-freeze, it will take on a yellowish/greenish color.

I would have the head pressure tested, you may have a head that has bad core shift or a weak fussion weld, that is leaking water straight into an exhaust runner.

If the hole is bad enough, you may see a "wash spot" in the runner.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...how-aluminum-head-pressure-tested-cracks.html

When I was at the shop we visually checked the exhaust ports and number 4 has a very small amount of mosture but he said he would throw another head gasket on it and try it. I already have all the stuff but Id rather find out what the issue is and pressure test it like you said. I guess I will try and clean up the exhaust ports and check it. I should of looked at the smoke during the day to get a better visual but im very certain it was of a white nature. My thoughts are the same on the plug. Usually its a rich condition causing that plug to run black. Im kinda stumped on this one. When I did clean the plug up the car did run and Idle almost perfect aside from vacuum leaks but then out of the blue it would just start running rough.

 

[BogusSVO]

If it is the type of leak I am thinking of, doubt you will see it with your eye. Check the parting line on the runners close.

Before you clean , look for a clean spot.

If it is a bad casting weld, where 2 parts of the casting were fused together, the hole will be smaller than a needle in dia.

A pressure test will be a sure way to find it.

 

[untouchablecc]

I took a few pics.

Cyl 1-4 in order. They seem too look decent too me.

Exhaust port 4 which looks like crap. It looked different from the other 3. They other 3 just had average amounts of carbon coating in the exhaust port. This one seems rather excessive. I seen a few spots that were not wet but had a darker more shiny black look to them. I dunno if this is just random oil blow by but nothing I could claim as coolant. Sorry if the pics are not the greatest.

I have yet to have the head pressure tested. I have two thoughts. Either go that route and know if the head is cracked or not. The other option is to throw the head on with a new gasket and studs and see how I pan out because these are notorious for hg failures. Im more or less trying to save money and time. If I have them pressure test the head and it fails that means I have to find a head. There is a shop up the road thats selling a full engine for 600 with a 6 month warranty. I know thats a chunk of change but it saves me 4 trips to the machine shop and searching for a head thats probably already warped and in need of a cut.

Opinions? I do need to get this thing together in the next few weeks being I want to daily it through winter.

 

[untouchablecc]

Just to wrap this thread up. After having the head checked at the shop and not finding any issues I decided to put the head gasket on because I have no intentions of rebuilding this engine when I can find them still running with a warranty at certain salvage yards. I no longer have any smoking issues or bubbling coolant in the thermostat housing. The only down side is I do have either a rod knock or lifter issue. The engine idles and runs perfect but it makes a bit of a wrapping sound around 3k. All and all I would say the problems solved. If the sound gets worse which im sure it will Ill just pick up a used engine somewhere. Its a beater car im not that worried about it.

 

[JusMX141]

Unloaded engine noise at floating rpm ranges between 2K and 4K normally means rod knock. It may be worth dropping the pan and having a look- if the crank isn't scored, slap a new set of rod bearings in and you're good to go.

What normally happens is the head gasket causes oil to either burn internally or leak externally, and the driver neglects to check the oil regularly. Pan gets pumped dry, rod bearings wear rapidly.

 

[untouchablecc]

Yes sir you are correct. I drained the oil and I have a nice metallic sheen to the oil. No major chunks but a shaving here and there. Im not a fan of throwing in rod bearings and praying but im sure its relatively inexpensive. Ill take a look at the crank. It would be great to get out of buying an engine. God knows I wont be rebuilding this one.

 

[JusMX141]

Make sure there is no metal protruding on the crank that may damage the new bearing....polish the journals with some emory cloth strips if needed. No grooving on the crank would be optimal for a performance application, but you can get away with a new set of bearings on a lightly-grooved crank for a daily driver.