Evo III Vs. Megan Racing O2 Housing

[dsm-onster]

I'm just a stickler for details in flow but that pic is great at showing this. I never liked the o2 sensor poking out right after the turbine wheel outlet to disrupt the helix after the turbine wheel exducer. But that's where megan places the o2 bung as well. I wonder how much difference a ported 2g with a better located o2 sensor vs. a non ported evo3 o2 housing would really make in a max effort setup with small turbo like the td05h.

And yes Eric is right. Even an ebay o2 housing fits in the lower heat shield and it's held up under my younger brothers immature abuse for years now.

 

[romeen]

Just an FYI, the stock heatshield fits with the MR o2 housing. Even though you lose 3 mounting bolts on the o2 housing it's plenty sturdy with just the 2 bolts on the turbine housing.

Now I know. Thanks

 

[streetdsmpwr]

How hard will it be to install either O2 housing without removing the turbo?

 

[romeen]

How hard will it be to install either O2 housing without removing the turbo?

I can't say about the Megan housing but the oem housing can be installed with turbo on the car using a crow's foot wrench. IIRC, it's only needed for the nut that sits in the "elbow" (indented) part of the housing (towards the front of the car). The rest can easily be managed with various length extensions and ingenuity.

 

[turbosax2]

^Same for the Megan, although to be fair my alternator is in the back so I didn't have to work around that while installing/removing the MR o2 housing. I didn't need to use a crows foot though for the MR or the stock one.

 

[dsm-onster]

All the cursing and swearing getting one tiny 1/8 turn on the back bolte by the block has me recommending to others to just pull the exhaust manifold off. All the bolts are easier to get to except for the one closest to the p/s pump. But if you have a universal swival you're in business. The intake pipe and oil lines stay on.

You likely need to get a good amount of leverage on the bolts after years of heat and rust. A nice lever arm on a 3/8" wratchet and a deep well 14mm will work with the exhaust manifold still on. But not only is it slow and tedious, it increases the chances of rounding the bolt easily without easily getting your hand in there to keep pressure on the ratchet head to keep the socket squarely on the bolt.

Do your battery a favor and disconnect one of the terminals. It's easy for the ratched to become a short at the main power terminal on the alternator which you have to work around.

 

[streetdsmpwr]

Thanks for the info, great help. I always disconnect the battery whenever I work on my car now ever since I blew a fuse installing a mechanical boost gauge. I think I might just stick with getting a cat-back and downpipe for now and wait until I get a bigger turbo and swap the O2 housing then. I'm just trying plan out all of the stuff I want to get so I can just get it and put it in without screwing myself over.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

I have a EvoIII 02 housing ported by FP. It is true 3" I never ran the 2g housing on my ported 16g from them but just a side by side you wouldn't want to use the 2g one.

With factory casting it does look ugly tho after 7yrs of use so I might go with a tubular one for looks that's about it.

Also on both my car and my friends gsx. I had the 2003 Megan Racing DP and my friend had one from 2006 they both hit the transfer case with the EvoIII 02 housing and didn't with the 2g housing on the stock turbos. I believe I read that Megan racing fixed fit issues IDK if this was one of them.