EVO III o2 housing and downpipe

[Gregory]

Hey guys. I’m trying to figure out what exhaust system I should be purchasing. I did do a lot of searching prior to making this post. My question is, with and EVO III 02 housing, can I go with the megan downpipe? I know they are both 2.5”, but do the studs match up? I know the studs are a different distance from stock o2 to evo III o2, so I’m concerned because the downpipe can obviously only fit one, and it doesn’t address which, unless I can assume that the 2.5” means the studs match up too. I don’t want to be tapping out or widening bolt holes or anything. Can someone with a EVO III and housing tell me which dp’s will bolt up no problem? Thanks in advance for any feedback/advice. Any input on the rest of the exhaust would also be gratefully appreciated. I hear good stuff about rnr, but can’t find there link.

 

[ChunkyLover53]

No problem, and I did see that you were purchasing that other cat. I just worded my last post incorrectly. I meant to say that I purchased their cat and short downpipe and it works great, but no harm done. Good luck with the setup.

I actually never tried, because I purchased the high flow cat along with the downpipe.

 

[Gregory]

Awesome. Thanks buddy.

And I don't know, but I have a suspicion they bolt up to the stock cat.

 

[DSMunknown]

I have a turbo back Apexi N1 exhaust and I had problems with that being too close to the oil filter and burning the hell out of it. These damn companies need to design stuff better .

Click here and take a look at the photos I recently took.

 

[nightspeed87]

I already have a 3in megan dp and a evo3 o2 housing and have the problem were it sits snuggly against the transfercase, Ive dampened the vibration noises with header wrap like I mentioned earlier in this thread but I want to get this thing to clear the tcase by at least a half of inch so its not touching anymore, I like the idea of heating it with a torch and then prying in hopes to bend it off a little which is better than my idea of taking it off and smashing in the flex section some with a hammer ( I know. But its aggrivating ) But what else could I do.. I dont want to purchase a new dp OR o2 housing. Especially since my dp is already welded up for a electric cut out.

 

[allgripnoslip]

I already have a 3in megan dp and a evo3 o2 housing and have the problem were it sits snuggly against the transfercase, Ive dampened the vibration noises with header wrap like I mentioned earlier in this thread but I want to get this thing to clear the tcase by at least a half of inch so its not touching anymore, I like the idea of heating it with a torch and then prying in hopes to bend it off a little which is better than my idea of taking it off and smashing in the flex section some with a hammer ( I know. But its aggrivating ) But what else could I do.. I dont want to purchase a new dp OR o2 housing. Especially since my dp is already welded up for a electric cut out.

I am having the same issues, but the effects are much worse, its actually vibrating enough to be caught by the knock sensor and you can see my knock voltage increasing with RPM. It never used to do ithat before. I have the Evo 3 O2 housing and an ebay Downpipe ( 2.75" inlet and 3" outlet ). I will be selling the Evo housing and buying one from punishment racing, for price and reliability's sake.

 

[Calan]

I already have a 3in megan dp and a evo3 o2 housing and have the problem were it sits snuggly against the transfercase, Ive dampened the vibration noises with header wrap like I mentioned earlier in this thread but I want to get this thing to clear the tcase by at least a half of inch so its not touching anymore, I like the idea of heating it with a torch and then prying in hopes to bend it off a little which is better than my idea of taking it off and smashing in the flex section some with a hammer ( I know. But its aggrivating ) But what else could I do.. I dont want to purchase a new dp OR o2 housing. Especially since my dp is already welded up for a electric cut out.

I was in the same boat. I ended up cutting two thickish slits in the DP about 1/4" and 1/2" back from the O2 flange, bending it to change the angle, and then re-welding it. I also made a spacer out of 1/4" plate aluminum that matches the O2 housing, and sealed it up with copper spray at the DP flange and a properly fitting gasket on the O2 side. (use the gasket as a template for the plate)

It's not perfect... but it doesn't leak, fits MUCH better than it did, and it is off the t-case. And... it was $0, which is much cheaper than a new DP

 

[97gstjosh]

Im running a Ported out EvoIII O2 housing w/ The RRE Evo fit downpipe w/ thier test pipe and the Megan Racing cat back exhaust. Love it. Just had to cut the test pipe a little bit and weld up a flange to connect to the Megan exhaust. I dont think they are overly priced at all. I actually had bought the megan downpipe in the first place but switched to the RRE 1. The only prob I have with the Megan exhaust is on the FWD model at the end by the canister there is a crimp in the pipe for clearance issues.

 

[Calan]

I had to cut and reweld my exhaust flange to fit my Megan DP, back when I first got the DP and bolted it up the stock O2. (It was one of the early ones with the incorrect rear flange angle). So now that I have the EvoIII O2, if I was to get the "correct" DP from RRE, I'll also have to cut and reweld my exhaust yet again.

I'm just gonna wait until I can afford a whole new 3" catback, and then I'll get the RRE DP.